I've had a look through my SC14 installation photos and thought i should start my write up now so i can clean out the folder and update this thread as i finish the last things off.
Warning: Page will take a while to load all thumbnails!
Parts that might be needed:
Toyota SC14 Supercharger
Pulley to fit (size as required, i used a 77mm)
Brackets to mount SC14 to engine
2 Bar map sensor
Intercooler
Intercooler piping (i used 3" throughout)
3 Longer spark plug leads (I got the longest leads available at supercheap)
Various Silicon joiners to suit piping size (And T-bolt clamps)
Blowoff valves (i used 1 atmospheric and one plumback)
Fuel Injectors (to suit pulley psi)
Modified memcal chip to suit psi output
Psi gauge (i used 15psi)
Extra idle wheel (try to get the type that has edges)
Pod Filter (If blower is before throttlebody)
Mini pod filter (For rocker cover breather)
Valium and a stocked fridge
12-13mm Bung (Cap off the rocker cover breather under the throttlebody)
Variety of bolts and nuts 8mm 10mm sizes and washers spring and flats
Gasket Card (heat resistant)
Electrical wire to suit coil wires
Extra Precaution parts:
Swirl Pot/Surge Tank
Fuel Pump (standard v8 pump)
Rising Rate fuel regulator
Tools that you will need (or bush mechanic it!)
Drill and assortment of bits
Holesaw bits for your drill
Angle Grinder (Grinding discs and cut off discs)
10mm Tap and Die kit
General assortment of spanners
Assorted ratchet and heads
Screwdrivers
First up removing the old stock SC14 pulley:
Remove the 3 screws on the front of the pulley.
Remove the face plate cap.
Undue the securing nut.
Using circlip pliers or two screwdrivers remove the circlip that holds the inner pulley to the bearing shaft.
Lift off the old electric clutch pulley to reveal the magnet.
Remove the circlip that holds the magnet onto the bearing shaft.
Lift off the magnet leaving you ready to put on the new pulley.
The pulley i bought from pulleybros.com.au had a tight spot when it was pushed onto the bearing shaft. So i had to file the top edge of the bearing shaft slightly. Also note if you buy one of these pulleys as per their instructions you need to file back a pin on the bearing shaft. (marked in picture)
(Now the face plate you removed earlier needs to be modified to fit if you have the same pulley type i am using.)
The spindle part of the pulley is steel surrounded by rubber, you need to cut the steel away from the rubber or pressure the steel spindle out of the rubber or even burn the rubber off.
Sorry i dont have photo's of this as i didnt do it on mine, it was pre removed.
But here it is after its removed and most rubber cut off:
Now that the plate is down to size you can throw it on the bearing guide and make sure it only runs on the bearing.
If it doesnt rub you can put on the plate and make sure the spline is lined up with the bolt holes then tighten the gold nut back onto the shaft to lock the pulley on.
Once you have the nut done up put on the face plate and do the bolts up.
Easy parts done!!
Brackets and Mounting!!
We will start off with the coil holder/alternator bracket modifications:
The coil Bracket needs to be modified to hold a pulley wheel. Heres a pic showing where i cut. The red lines show what is removed. Take note of the following photo though as it shows what needs to be left.
On the bit you will have to cut off make sure you dont destroy the bolt guide on the right discarded under part, as you cut that knob off at the join and use it as a spacer. As below.
Tap a 10mm thread through the centre bolt guide!
The bolt guide once removed will need to be turned on a lathe or cut accurately on a drop saw at the previous join so that it is dead flat and square! Once its flat you will need to tap the inside with a 10mm thread. NOTE! If you have access to a lathe when you get this turned you can also turn out a spacer to fit inside the idler wheel, the spacer need to sit firmly inside the bearing and needs to be able to fit a 10mm bolt through it.
Now that you have it all cut to the required shape and tapped, insert a 10mm bolt through the idler wheel into the spacer through the old bracket holder and if you bought a long enough bolt you can also drill and tap the engine block previous hole to the required length (Mine was 15mm).
Alternator Bracket:
NOTE! Its easier to leave this task to last, so you can mount the charger and pipe work then know where to weld it onto the pipes.
Remove the bolt on the right hand side of the alternator (goes through into the black mount below). Then remove the two bolts holding the black bracket in place.
This bracket is pretty straight forward so no need for explanations.
Mounts for the blower!
The fun begins with the two engine mounted brackets:
We will start with the exhaust manifold bracket. Its very simple undo the nuts each side of the closest spark plug remove whatever was there originally (from memory a lead holder). Then slip on the bracket and tighten.
Since the coil bracket holder is still off we can put the triangular bracket on. It goes on the engine block using one of the holes from the original coil bracket holder and another hole directly behind the radiator hose. The bolt that goes in behind the radiator hose is a pain in the ar$e, you need to pull the hose forward and up a bit to access the hole. Don't tighten this bracket yet!!
Now we can put the modified coil bracket holder on, just reverse how you took it off...
Blower Pre Set Up!
Need to get rid of those dodgy top mounts, Just whip out the angle grinder and lop em off...
Blower pipes:
Theres no really easy way to do these. I cut the original intake outlet pipes at the manifolds. Then bought a 1 metre length of 5mm thick walled aluminium tubing off ebay. I drew up a few ideas going by other peoples pipes and went for a simple to weld setup.
I left as much meat as possible on the manifold bases being careful i could still access the blowers bolts. I used 3 inch intercooler piping all the way through from these manifolds to the throttlebody.
I had a friend of a mate weld the manifolds to the aluminium tubing.
Last thing to do after you have made the new piping is to get some gasket card and mark out the manifold patterns.
The other brackets can be made or bought pretty easily. PM me if you need a set made.