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Old 12-07-2008, 12:39 AM
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needwork2-4fillhabbit needwork2-4fillhabbit is offline
 

Ride: VP V6 Exec
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Posts: 459
needwork2-4fillhabbit Executive
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Mounting the blower!
You will need a 10mm strengthened long bolt to go through the blower mounts and your brackets. Also you will need a bit of strong tube that will fit over the bolt, it will be a spacer that needs to be cut to length to fit between the back bracket and the front mount on the blower. This spacer stops forward and back movement of the blower.



The blower bottom goes on the two mounts you just attached to the engine *hope you left the triangular one loose!*
The front mount on the blower goes forward of the front bracket on the engine.




Now slip the bolt through from the back of the blower through the brackets and spacer. I used a flat then spring washer on the head end of the bolt then another spring and flat at the nut end. As you tighten the nut on the bolt you will see there may be some slack you need to pick up using washers.. Now tighten the triangular bracket.




Intercooling Time

Remove your front bumper. On the VP i only had to remove one screw from each tyre well and 5 bolts from the reo to bumper.



You probably have an idea of what size piping you will be using by now. As i have said earlier i used 3 inch.



Easiest way is mount your intercooler then work the pipes from either way to meet. I used a angled piece of aluminium to hold my intercooler till i get bar mount made.



Piece out your bends and straights the best you can and cut once you've found the best route. Tape your pipes together as you go to give you a good guide.



I taped and marked my pipes once i knew they would fit so i could hand them over to be welded.



Mark out and cut where you want your blow off valve/s to go especially if you need to get the bov mount welded on.



I used one atmo bov near the throttlebody and a seated plumback bov near the blower. This bov needs the hole cut the same size as the bottom of the bov inlet then carefully filed to be just a little bigger so the rubber gromit will fit snuggly to the bov and be air tight.



Put it all on once made. A few tips: On the intercooler make sure the t-bolts face downwards for easier access once the bumper is put back on. Make sure you tighten the clamps tight!! As you dont want them blowing off.... Makes a big bang ehehe.






Final Steps!

Fuel Injectors:

Start by depressurizing the fuel lines. To do this take the lid off the fuse box in your engine bay and remove the fuel pump relay fuse. Then start your car and run till it stalls, once its stalled keep cranking the engine over for 10-15 seconds to get remaining trickles of fuel out of the lines.



Next undo the fuel lines at the start of the rail. Unclip the VAC lines from around the fuel rail and loosen off the bolts at the front of the injector rail holders.



Undo the bolts ontop of the rails making sure you dont drop the extra little VAC line holders. You can now unclip the injector wires, to do this just grab a largish flat head screwdriver and slip it inside the silver clip and gentle lever outwards. CAUTION: These clips can fly off pretty easily so hold them as you lever with the screwdriver.





Now since you have loosened off the fuel rail holders you can raise and wobble the fuel rail upwards, it takes a bit of wiggling, circular motion and moderate force to get the injectors to pop loose from the bottom injector seats. CAUTION: To much force will pull the o'rings off the bottom of the injectors and they may fall in!



Once the injectors are free you can angle the rail holder so you can see the clips holding the top of the injectors, these clips undo by pulling out from behind (Shouldnt take much force). Now slowly wriggle the injector in a circular motion again and apply moderate downward pressure to get it to pop off the rail. A small amount of petrol will dribble out once its free.

Grab your new injectors and apply some of the lubricant to the o'rings top and bottom to assist installing.



For installation reverse the removal proceedure, Making sure u wriggle the injectors in, dont wanna push them o'rings off.




Rocker cover breather:

(Ehehe i forgot about this hose after meticulously doing the rest, end result was boost pressure blowing out the rocker gasket...)

Most setups (including the person who has helped me the most Stocky) based around CRS designs use a breather hose connected from the rocker breather to the blowers intake piping to breath.1st Picture below is a photo of stockys set up, it shows the hose in red.



After a bit of a msn chat to 'vn calais manual' he switched me onto a mini type airfilter, at first i thought of a lawnmower airfilter, but whilst buying some rubber tubing at supercheap i saw this mini pod filter that looked perfect for the job.



It needs a barb joiner (no pic) to fit inside the rocker hose and to the rubber bottom grommit of the mini pod, bunnings had one for 90cents or something. Next at supercheap i also picked up a rubber bung to cap off the old breather on the throttlebody.



Clamp the newly connected hoses and the barb attachment.




2 Bar map sensor:

This is located at the back of your engine bay. Undo the screws at either end lift off and unclip the wires and the hose connected to the back. I tapped into the VAC line that connects to the Bar sensor for the BOV negative effect VAC line. Connect your two bar up and screw it back down.




VAC Lines:

Zip tie all of the VAC lines to stop the soon to be boosted pressure lines from blowing off make sure you either clamp or zip tie along the VAC lines at joins.. example: charcoal cannister, throttlebody and everywhere else where theres joins...


Last edited by needwork2-4fillhabbit; 17-07-2008 at 12:54 PM. Reason: Constantly editing!!
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