VZ Factory Speaker Replacements?

[Cod]

My apologies if this has been asked before, I was unable to find older posts that address what I’m after.

I’d like to replace my factory speakers in my VZ Exec Sedan with something that’ll offer better sound and clarity running solely from the factory Blaupunkt head unit and existing wiring.

What I’m after is something that’ll sit within the existing speaker spaces behind the grills without any cutting required, preferably straight bolt(screw) ins. As you can tell I just wish to improve sound quality over the factory speakers, not interested in amps/subs etc.

Can you recommend a brand/type & sizes with prices? Also do you do mail orders to Perth?

[chargedvx6]

I'm running Alpine type S splits at the front and coaxials in the rear door still using the factory parcel tray subs. As long as the audio distortion limiter is turned off they pump. For the splits I didn't wire in the cross over, just hooked straight into the factory loom and rely on its built in cross over.

[HCVP]

One thing you need to realise, is that you could go out and drop $1000+ speaker's front and back, and you may get little, if any , audible difference. This is because the sound of the source remains unchanged.
A speaker is only as good as the signal you send it. When you start dealing with better quality speakers, the quality is in the fact that they are typically more detailed in thier sound reproduction.(that is unless they are aimed specifically at SPL duties.) The more highly detailed a speaker is, the more so it will also high light any imperfections from the signal's being sent to it.

E.g, imagine you are listening to the radio, and due to reception issue's, there's a hint of fuzziness in the sound. A really good set of speakers, is going to pick up this "fuzziness" and high light it to your ears.

The second thing is power, you can "in theory" run any speaker, from any amount of power. However, to get the most performance out of a speaker, you need to provide it with sufficient power. Two things cause a speaker to distort, or put better, loose clarity. One is caused by the speaker reaching it's mechanical limits, the other is the amplifier sending the signal, reaches it's limits, and therefore the distortion become's audible through the speaker.

So long story short, you may be better of retaining your factory speakers, if your not willing to adapt them to any other after market audio component, such as an amplifier, or an aftermarket head unit.

[Torquative]

the VZ has an "audio distortion limiter" which is activated via the dash. When it picks up distortion (dont know how) it turns the volume down a bit to compensate.

[Phreddy]

HolComVP....

It might surprise you to know just how nicely some speakers - and yes, the AD-6s you're familiar with - do perform as direct OEM replacements.

And as Torquative pointed out, the DDL (Dynamic Distortion Limiter) is a menu option in the VY and VZ Blaupunkt stereos, where the on-board power amp outputs are monitored, and the gain automatically reduced if the signal approaches clipping. When turned off, coupled with sufficiently "trained" ears, the Blau can be made to provide just a little more punch.

Don't get me wrong - I agree with you in the regards that POWER is the "Holy Grail" in a high quality sound system, but some just don't wish to go to that level of trouble and expense. I disagree though that one would be "better off" t leave the factory speakers in there. They are TOTAL rubbish - the only use I can come up with for them is to rip the magnet off the back of the frame - and it's good for picking up screws and bolts on the workshop floor.

Yes, you need to be mindful in your selection of speakers, given that you don't have a lot of power "headroom" to play with.... but there's always an improvement to be made over the absolute junk speakers fitted from the factory.

Oh, and in my opinion relying on the "factory crossover" is a big mistake too.... Let me tell you, from VR onwards the "crossover" consists of a capacitor in series with the tweeter. That's IT. The cheapest and least effective crossover of all - and definitely NOT aimed at high quality and detailed performance. There's nothing limiting the highs to the mid-woofer, and so the impedance presented to the amp is all over the place as well. There's no accurate attenuation to the mid-woofer at the crossover point, so the high midrange is usually WAY too bright and coloured.... A high quality speaker system is as dependent on the crossover as any other component - they're all designed to work together. (well, in a "proper" system at least...)

And then of course, there's the installation job that's a key aspect too, but that's another box of frogs altogether...

Anyhow, just my opinions.... It's the ASR sub forum, so I'm allowed to heve 'em!

[HCVP]

The factory speakers aren't at their mechanical limits when they are being run from the standard Blaupunkt reciever.There is room for improvement as far as aftermarket tuning goes.

The problem with most standard stereo systems is that they are set up to to run in full range in an attempt to compensate for a lack of bass response, which in turn limit's their power handling abilities. When your limiting a speaker's handling abilities, your also limiting the opportunity to explore the speakers fq response range.

While there can be some gain by upgrading factory speakers, like you said, components are designed to work together. I can't see the point in spending the money on a set of replacement speakers, only to have them significantly underpowered, with limited tuning options.But anyway's that's just my 2 cents..Oh and should i not be replying to this sub forum, i'm not sure on the sub forum rules...

[Cod]

Phreddy, you have some suggestions with prices on OEM replacements? I don't wish to buy anything high end because as mentioned they won't be used to their potential, also it's not worth spending a lot of money on them. Just want to replace the "rubbish" that's in there now.

[Surfwagon]

Some useful info here, looking into upgrading my speakers also.

[SuperSixty6]

I’m sure Greg will be able to recommend you some good speakers for what you are pursuing, So I won’t say anything in that regard.

However, I will just put it out there. When buying after market speakers, Be weary of depth. Unless you are prepared to go all out you won’t be fitting a big component behind the stock Holden Door trim.

I am doing a custom stereo install on my car at the moment, Due to the size of the speaker (Generally anything that can handle allot of power will have a big magnet *hint*) I cannot fit the speaker in the stock plastic mould the speaker goes in, Let alone if it did fit, compensate for how much movement the speaker has. So this is requiring custom door trims for myself – Not cheap

Maybe not much relevant Intel to you, But no harm in pointing it out.

Cheers,
Super6

[chargedvx6]

HolComVP....

It might surprise you to know just how nicely some speakers - and yes, the AD-6s you're familiar with - do perform as direct OEM replacements.

And as Torquative pointed out, the DDL (Dynamic Distortion Limiter) is a menu option in the VY and VZ Blaupunkt stereos, where the on-board power amp outputs are monitored, and the gain automatically reduced if the signal approaches clipping. When turned off, coupled with sufficiently "trained" ears, the Blau can be made to provide just a little more punch.

Don't get me wrong - I agree with you in the regards that POWER is the "Holy Grail" in a high quality sound system, but some just don't wish to go to that level of trouble and expense. I disagree though that one would be "better off" t leave the factory speakers in there. They are TOTAL rubbish - the only use I can come up with for them is to rip the magnet off the back of the frame - and it's good for picking up screws and bolts on the workshop floor.

Yes, you need to be mindful in your selection of speakers, given that you don't have a lot of power "headroom" to play with.... but there's always an improvement to be made over the absolute junk speakers fitted from the factory.

Oh, and in my opinion relying on the "factory crossover" is a big mistake too.... Let me tell you, from VR onwards the "crossover" consists of a capacitor in series with the tweeter. That's IT. The cheapest and least effective crossover of all - and definitely NOT aimed at high quality and detailed performance. There's nothing limiting the highs to the mid-woofer, and so the impedance presented to the amp is all over the place as well. There's no accurate attenuation to the mid-woofer at the crossover point, so the high midrange is usually WAY too bright and coloured.... A high quality speaker system is as dependent on the crossover as any other component - they're all designed to work together. (well, in a "proper" system at least...)

And then of course, there's the installation job that's a key aspect too, but that's another box of frogs altogether...

Anyhow, just my opinions.... It's the ASR sub forum, so I'm allowed to heve 'em!

I agree about utilising the factory crossover. Basic at best. Just fitting speakers is bandaid solution so I didn't bother about wiring the crossovers. That's for when I get your RCAs hooked in and that nice amp you told me about

[wrx884]

I am doing a custom stereo install on my car at the moment, Due to the size of the speaker (Generally anything that can handle allot of power will have a big magnet *hint*) I cannot fit the speaker in the stock plastic mould the speaker goes in, Let alone if it did fit, compensate for how much movement the speaker has. So this is requiring custom door trims for myself – Not cheap

Maybe not much relevant Intel to you, But no harm in pointing it out.

Cheers,
Super6

wen replacing ur speaker 4 ur new pair did u cut out the back of the door pods 2 compensate 4 the larger magnet??? usually thats all thats required 2 make them fit.

[SuperSixty6]

wen replacing ur speaker 4 ur new pair did u cut out the back of the door pods 2 compensate 4 the larger magnet??? usually thats all thats required 2 make them fit.

No mate, The cone base is too large to fit. I would have probably had to cut 90% of it and just use it as a spacer if i was doing that. I don't like to use plastic either.

But it wasn't just the plastic pod, The speaker movement/travel would have hit the door and i didn't want to damage my speakers.

Cheers,
Super6

[Cod]

Back in the day when i was into doing big systems there were some "slimline" speakers that Alpine did that had very low depth requirements. That's what i'm guessing would be required here, just thought someone else would've figured it out already rather than me having to research it.

[Phreddy]

No, not really Mate.... There's plenty of mounting depth behind the speakers, as long as you're OK about trimming the plastic mounting "buckets" a little - 6" units will pretty much drop straight in, but 6.6" do fit with the trimming. There's a MUCH more expansive range of good quality 6.5" units from what I've seen, so it's worth the trouble.

Cheerz!

[MySV6]

I'll have to chat about this mod tomorrow - I'd love to upgrade the setup in this car a bit more than the VZ

[Sharronholloran]

I would recommend staying away from this mysterious 7 speaker as I suspect it will require a ported box.

[DAZ88P]

i replaced the crappy cardboard speakers in my VZ with some splits up front and three ways in the back and noticed little improvement. this is probably the most common straight forward speaker swap.lived with this for about a year until factory head unit started playing up.

Yesterday got the head deck changed over and cannot beleive the difference. so much more clarity and can go much louder without distortion

so backing up what others have said my system was being limited very much so by the head unit and would recommend changing it too if you enjoy your music.

let us know what you end/ed up doing?

[MRSHL]

im wanting to put some speakers in the tailgate/boot area of my vz wagon and was wondering how exactly i can do this. and what speakers would be best to upgrade the system. i would like some nice 6x9's in the rear but it seems like that would mean cutting holes into the rear somewhere to put them as i cannot find a spot that there is speakers in the rear there, only the doors. any suggestions how to do this.?