Hey all,

listed below are FAQ's for all of the ASR products.

As we find more questions being asked on a regular basis, we will include them here to help out new customers!

Of course if your question isn't answered here or your still not sure, simply start a new topic and ask so someone can guide you.

Lighting

Q: What models can your mods/kits fit to?

A: At the moment, only VY and VZ Commodore / Monaro are covered in the ASR kits. Models previous to VY can be converted, but not in a kit at this stage. Development for other makes and models is in progress, check back later.


Q: What is changed?

A: Basically, whatever lights up green currently is changed to the colour you choose. The following items are converted: Ignition switch ring, headlight switch, trip computer button panel, heater controls / climate control, instrument cluster, stereo system (factory unit), forward console mounted window switches, Auto shift and PWR + AS switches if applicable, and traction control / ESP button if fitted. If your model currently has illuminated steering wheel buttons, these are also changed. Optional items include factory Bluetooth (or other accessory) switch, factory sunroof, and back door window switches. An option also exists to change the gauge dials in the instrument cluster to white, such as several HSV and Calais models, with other illumination in the colour of choice.


.Q: What colours can the instrument / control lighting be changed to?

A: Essentially any colour in which LEDs are available in 3mm, 5mm, 10mm, and PLCC2 SMD package types. This covers blue, red, white, yellow, orange, and of course green. Other colours are claimed, such as purple and pink, but these are not recommended.


.Q: What's wrong with purple or pink?

A: Let's tackle these one at a time. Purple (or violet, or mauve) is one of those colours which the human eye doesn't respond well to. The sensitivity of our eyes reduces towards the ends of the visible spectrum (red at the low end, violet at the high end) and this means that the actual output intensity of these "end colours" must be much higher for us to perceive the same level of visible brightness. Red LEDs are OK for this, because remarkably high intensity devices are available - purple however, are not of sufficient intensity. Additionally, purple devices are only available in 5mm leaded package - no 3mm, 10mm, or SMD devices are available. Pink devices are available in most package types, but these are not a true pink LED - they're white devices, with a pink filter in the lens. (additionally, I'm not certain why someone would want their control/instrument lighting in pink anyway - sorry girls!)


.Q: Does the light dimming function still work?

A: Absolutely. (the ones that dim in the first place, anyway) No functionality of the lighting cicuits is altered, apart from several globes being replaced with LEDs. This proves to be an advantage, as LEDs won't blow after a few years like globes do.


.Q: What about my car's warranty?

A: Because the associated sub-assemblies are dismantled and modified, unfortunately the warranty on these items will be void. However, if you're engine falls out or something, and the dealer blames your modified instrument cluster, then I think you'll have a good case with the Fair Trading Dept.

.Q: Why should I buy your kit? I can get the LEDs from a hobbyist supplier a little cheaper...

A: You could get most of the LEDs, although you'll find the SMD types are difficult to get hold of in small quantities. (you can find them, but it's almost guaranteed they'll be the wrong type - the ones for mobile phones are the WRONG type!) A LED is not necessarily a LED - they vary greatly in emitted wavelength (colour), angle of radiation, mounting style, intensity..... A great deal of trouble has been taken to ensure colour matched, intensity matched, and correct type LEDs for these kits. The leaded type LEDs also have various modifications to lens shapes and lead-forms to firstly make the installation run smoothly, and secondly to concentrate the light output where it needs to be. Much trial and error went into this, so you don't have to. Finally, the kit is accompanied by a 34 page document - printed in full colour - to guide you through all the stripdown, modification, and reassembly procedures.


.Q: So what does the modification involve? What work will I have to do?

A: Several sub-assemblies have to be removed from the car. Items such as the headlight switch, trip computer button panel, heater / climate control, instrument cluster, stereo (if it's the factory unit), window switch module, any accessory switches (such as the T/C or ESP, bluetooth button, etc.), and if you have an Auto, the entire console needs to come out to change the lighting in the shifter and associated buttons (PWR mode, Active Select). There will also be a fair amount of trim panel removal and replacement. Once these items are out of the car they need to be stripped down, and have the globes (or existing LEDs) removed and the new devices soldered in place. The instrument cluster is by far the most risky - there's a long row of pins connecting the LCD display(s) to the main circuit board - these must be desoldered, and they must be desoldered PROPERLY. It's a "through-plated" board (techos out there will be familiar with that term), and if not desoldered correctly you can write off either the board or the display window. This will mean you're up for a COMPLETE NEW CLUSTER - somewhere in the vicinity of 400 bucks for one of those - and it's STILL GREEN!! The facia in the stereo is also a little bit tricky, but not quite as tough as the cluster. If your car has the dual zone electronic climate control, this is also a fairly delicate assembly and needs care. The bottom line is that you'll have to be comfortable with not only the soldering side of things, but also to strip a sub-assembly, noting how it went together in the first place, and then be able to put it BACK together. Don't forget to put all the screws back in when you're putting the car back together too - else you might end up with a rattle or two you never heard before.

.Q: I'd like to have a go at installing this mod - I did a little soldering at school and built a crystal radio when I was a kid. Can I do this?

A: I would very strongly suggest that without the right level of experience and access to the right tools, you should NOT take this job on. There's just plenty of situations which could end up very costly if the wrong tools or techniques are used. For those who work in the electronics industry and are comfortable with soldering (especially with surface mount components), then it's quite straightforward. For another who "built a Dick Smith kit years ago...", I'd suggest you get friendly with a good technician.


.Q: I already have a HSV/Calais and my gauge dials are already white. Can a kit be customised so as to change all the other illumination, and leave the gauges the way they are?

A: Of course! If you need a kit which departs a little from the standard types, let's talk. Also if you have certain accessory switches (such as bluetooth etc.) extra LEDs can be included to cater to these items.


.Q: OK, you got me - I don't feel comfortable to do it myself, so I'd like you to perform the mod. What are my options?

A: If you're in the Sydney area, that's easy - I'm located in the Western suburbs. Alternatively, I can do the work on a "mail-in / mail-back" basis - either all items, or just those you're not confident with. This work can be done overnight and the items on their way back the following day. The last option is to keep an eye out for the "ASR Roadshow" - I'm planning a trip to each state capital (in Aust) to perform full mods for folks if enough interest is shown

Audio FAQ

.Q: What models can your mods/kits fit to?

A: At the moment, only VY and VZ Commodore / Monaro are covered in the ASR kits. However the circuits could be used in virtually any make and model, it's just a matter of having a suitable unit to locate the signal connection points. In fact, the mods for other manufactures could in fact be less costly - the mod for the Commodore systems includes a specially designed connector mounted to the cradle, as there's no space behind the unit to access the necessary additional connections. In other makes / models where sufficient space does exist the extra cost and complexity of the external connections can be forgone.

.Q: What does the mod do?

A: The factory fitted sound systems are nicely integrated in recent times, not only in Commodores, but in many other makes also. The integration of steering wheel controls and HUD information is not only convenient, but enhances safety in not having to look away from the road. Many people don't want to lose these features, plus the units are also designed to blend in nicely with the overall interior look. Those who desire higher performance from the entertainment system are sometimes left a little disappointed with the connectivity options (or lack of them) with the standard unit, so usually the only option is to fit aftermarket - removing the integrated functions (unless you spend a good amount more), and increasing the temptation for thieves. The modifications allow this enhanced connectivity to provide both 4 channel true low-level RCA outputs on one hand, and an Auxiliary Input feature to allow connection of a MP3 player, cassette walkman, laptop audio - whatever has a headphone socket - on the other. These mods can be done one or the other, or a combination of both.

.Q: Why go to this trouble? Why not use a Line Output Converter (LOC, or "hi-to-low converter")?

A: This one's easy! The fact is that the very vast majority of distortion in audio systems comes from the power amplifier. (pretty much the last link in the signal chain before the loudspeaker) The power amps in a car stereo are IC devices (Integrated Circuits or "chips") so as to save space and make assembly easy, but they are limited though in the output voltage (hence power) they can produce, and their distortion figures usually aren't very good. A line output converter simply wires in to the speaker outputs and attenuates (makes smaller - the opposite of amplification) the high level signal voltage back to an acceptably low voltage to feed the external amplifier inputs - complete with the distortion introduced by the on-board power amp chips. Regardless of what quality external components you're using, you're feeding them a distorted signal to start with! The output mod picks up the signals internally after the pre-amps, but before the power amp - clean as a whistle. The signals pass through a "buffer" circuit so that external loading or short circuit which might occur won't cause any faults in the unit or otherwise affect the operation. (which can happen - we don't mean to, but sometimes....) For convenience, the mod also provides a remote trigger for the amp(s), also protected from fault conditions.

.Q: What about an FM transmitter/modulator for the Aux Input feed?

A: Hmmmm, what about them indeed.... They work OK, but just OK. They're very much affected by interference from local FM radio transmissions (try using one within a few kays of a broadcast transmitter...), and well above that they are limited by the FM transmission standards, which your receiver is designed around. Even a "modulator" type device (which runs in-line with the antenna cable, so it's less prone to interference) suffers from these limitations. Dynamic range and frequency response are limited in FM radio transmission - high frequency rolloff occurs above 13KHz (in the transmitter end to limit sideband production, and de-amphasis of high frequency noise products at the receiver), and dynamic range is limited to about 45dB to overcome the "noise floor". A well compressed MP3 (say around 256kbps) has a frequency range approaching 15-16KHz, and a dynamic range of typically 80dB or more from a high quality player. The only way to achieve a true uncoloured feed from your portable player is hard-wired, simple as that. All of my customers who have changed over from the transmitter feed to my hard wired mod are stunned with the improvement in sound quality.

.Q: Is the operation of the internal amps affected? Can I hook up the original speaker connections when I sell the car? (or, fit the mod and keep the speaker connections for now, adding the amp later?)

A: Absolutely yes. The overall operation of the unit is not affected in any way at all. There is no indication that anything is other than factory stock, operationally and aesthetically.

.Q: What about the warranty?

A: Because the sound system sub-assembly is dismantled and modified, unfortunately the warranty on this item will be void. However, if you're engine falls out or something, and the dealer blames your modified head unit (if they even notice!), then I think you'll have a good case with the Fair Trading Dept.

.Q: I heard that there was a small issue when using the Aux Input with a hands-free kit connected to the unit. Has this been resolved?

A: Yes it has, the final prototype was commissioned to overcome this problem. No aspect of the normal operation is affected.

.Q: I'd like to have a go at installing this mod - I did a little soldering at school and built a crystal radio when I was a kid. Can I do this?

A: I would very strongly suggest that without the right level of experience and access to the right tools, you should NOT take this job on. You will need access to the right tools, and you'll need to know how to use them. For those who work in the electronics industry and are comfortable with soldering , then it's quite straightforward. For another who "built a Dick Smith kit years ago, but I couldn't get it to work...", I'd suggest you get friendly with a good technician.