I know it's early days yet but was wondering if Phreddy has developed an interface for the Holden IQ system to allow for low level output?
"Nonsense, this is the kind of coverings what we humans wear at this period of time. I'm quite sure of it."
See my ride here
Any update on this? I would be interested as well. The stock speakers are complete rubbish on my SV6...
Well Holden got half way there this time eh! usb/ipod interface, aux in socket, bluetoothed to buggery couple of rca sockets woulda been nice, then again maybe they were leaving the end user market open to ya Phreddy??
As for the speakers, yeah suffer bigtime, in the mist of working on my system. Line converters sorta like taking a wizz on a 100yo oak and thinking it may grow some more in the next week.
Phreddy installed his kit into my VE SSV ute and I can't imagine the kit being any/very different to what would be required to get RCAs on your stereo.
Best bet is to give him a call I was S U P E R happy with his work on my car!
i am new to just commodore, but an installer i am.. line conversion on a VE that i have recently done isnt as hard as i thought it would be. driver side bottom kick panel (next to clutch or brake has the wire to the speakers (cant remember colour apart from brown and green) and also connected to the control wire for the amp on the power window line, as the power has a time delay relay that turns off around 30 to 45 sec.... and it all works
buy stinger low leval converters or a good proseser if you want good sound
Low level converters..... Pfftt..... Doesn't matter WHAT name is one them, they blow.... And there's no signal processor in the galaxy that can remove the distortion your internal amps will produce - you can't polish a turd, end of story.
(I look at things from a scientific point of view - not just what my mates tell me...)
As far as the true Pre-outs for the new IQ system - can't see that it would be too difficult, but I need a unit to have a look at. Any volunteers?
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Well i'm from Melb, Not sure if i would drive to NSW to get work done on my ute SSV Redline, maybe if i was in the area.
Very interested in you opinion though Phreddy, I was just about to go out an buy a RF 3sixty and have a go at installing that and some new speakers and subs in my ute, You obviuosly think the LOC's are no go, are they really no good or are you just a bit of a prefectionist?
Also in regards to speakers, i was thinking some RF T2 6.5" splits in the front and finding some 8" subs to replace the ones in the b pillars, also planning to dynamat the crap out it too.
What are the issues with fitting decent speakers in the door, eg. space for magnet?
"Q: Why go to this trouble? Why not use a Line Output Converter (LOC, or "hi-to-low converter")?
A: This one's easy! The fact is that the very vast majority of distortion in audio systems comes from the power amplifier. (pretty much the last link in the signal chain before the loudspeaker) The power amps in a car stereo are IC devices (Integrated Circuits or "chips") so as to save space and make assembly easy, but they are limited though in the output voltage (hence power) they can produce, and their distortion figures usually aren't very good. A line output converter simply wires in to the speaker outputs and attenuates (makes smaller - the opposite of amplification) the high level signal voltage back to an acceptably low voltage to feed the external amplifier inputs - complete with the distortion introduced by the on-board power amp chips. Regardless of what quality external components you're using, you're feeding them a distorted signal to start with! The output mod picks up the signals internally after the pre-amps, but before the power amp - clean as a whistle. The signals pass through a "buffer" circuit so that external loading or short circuit which might occur won't cause any faults in the unit or otherwise affect the operation. (which can happen - we don't mean to, but sometimes....) For convenience, the mod also provides a remote trigger for the amp(s), also protected from fault conditions."
I take it that the issues raised by Gus and Phreddy are the reason that a reputable local installer told me that they would not guarantee an install that was free of alternator whine (on a VEII Calais Sportwagon). This has me hanging off at the moment - I would like to drive some good quality aftermarket speakers with a nice solid amp (nothing too outrageous), but am not interested until someone can assure me that there is a reliable approach to providing a clean signal.
Are there any VE11 owners out there who have had the pre-outs installed yet? Any feedback (time, cost, quality)?
Thanks
any updates on this guys? also when you put the high inputs into the convertor do you tee off the lines to still get the original speaker working or lose it? surely if you tee you lose power to the outputs?
Last edited by alan_blue; 12-07-2011 at 08:13 PM.