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Dash lighting FAQ.
Here we are folks, the long-awaited FAQs for the control / intrument lighting mods. As more questions come to light, I'll be sure to keep this list up to date.
Q: What models can your mods/kits fit to?
A: At the moment, only VY and VZ Commodore / Monaro are covered in the ASR kits. Models previous to VY can be converted, but not in a kit at this stage. Development for other makes and models is in progress, check back later.
Q: What is changed?
A: Basically, whatever lights up green currently is changed to the colour you choose. The following items are converted: Ignition switch ring, headlight switch, trip computer button panel, heater controls / climate control, instrument cluster, stereo system (factory unit), forward console mounted window switches, Auto shift and PWR + AS switches if applicable, and traction control / ESP button if fitted. If your model currently has illuminated steering wheel buttons, these are also changed. Optional items include factory Bluetooth (or other accessory) switch, factory sunroof, and back door window switches. An option also exists to change the gauge dials in the instrument cluster to white, such as several HSV and Calais models, with other illumination in the colour of choice.
Q: What colours can the instrument / control lighting be chaged to?
A: Essentially any colour in which LEDs are available in 3mm, 5mm, 10mm, and PLCC2 SMD package types. This covers blue, red, white, yellow, orange, and of course green. Other colours are claimed, such as purple and pink, but these are not recommended.
Q: What's wrong with purple or pink?
A: Let's tackle these one at a time. Purple (or violet, or mauve) is one of those colours which the human eye doesn't respond well to. The sensitivity of our eyes reduces towards the ends of the visible spectrum (red at the low end, violet at the high end) and this means that the actual output intensity of these "end colours" must be much higher for us to perceive the same level of visible brightness. Red LEDs are OK for this, because remarkably high intensity devices are available - purple however, are not of sufficient intensity. Additionally, purple devices are only available in 5mm leaded package - no 3mm, 10mm, or SMD devices are available. Pink devices are available in most package types, but these are not a true pink LED - they're white devices, with a pink filter in the lens. (additionally, I'm not certain why someone would want their control/instrument lighting in pink anyway - sorry girls!)
Q: Does the light dimming function still work?
A: Absolutely. (the ones that dim in the first place, anyway) No functionality of the lighting cicuits is altered, apart from several globes being replaced with LEDs. This proves to be an advantage, as LEDs won't blow after a few years like globes do.
Q: What about my car's warranty?
A: Because the associated sub-assemblies are dismantled and modified, unfortunately the warranty on these items will be void. However, if you're engine falls out or something, and the dealer blames your modified instrument cluster, then I think you'll have a good case with the Fair Trading Dept.
Q: Why the price differential between blue and other colours? And why is the white gauge option more expensive?
A: A simple matter of component cost. Blue LEDs are substantially more expensive than other colours, and white a bit spendier still.
Q: Why should I buy your kit? I can get the LEDs from a hobbyist supplier a little cheaper....
A: You could get most of the LEDs, although you'll find the SMD types are difficult to get hold of in small quantities. (you can find them, but it's almost guaranteed they'll be the wrong type - the ones for mobile phones are the WRONG type!) A LED is not necessarily a LED - they vary greatly in emitted wavelength (colour), angle of radiation, mounting style, intensity..... A great deal of trouble has been taken to ensure colour matched, intensity matched, and correct type LEDs for these kits. The leaded type LEDs also have various modifications to lens shapes and lead-forms to firstly make the installation run smoothly, and secondly to concentrate the light output where it needs to be. Much trial and error went into this, so you don't have to. Finally, the kit is accompanied by a 34 page document - printed in full colour - to guide you through all the stripdown, modification, and reassembly procedures.
Q: So what does the modification involve? What work will I have to do?
A: Several sub-assemblies have to be removed from the car. Items such as the headlight switch, trip computer button panel, heater / climate control, instrument cluster, stereo (if it's the factory unit), window switch module, any accessory switches (such as the T/C or ESP, bluetooth button, etc.), and if you have an Auto, the entire console needs to come out to change the lighting in the shifter and associated buttons (PWR mode, Active Select). There will also be a fair amount of trim panel removal and replacement. Once these items are out of the car they need to be stripped down, and have the globes (or existing LEDs) removed and the new devices soldered in place. The instrument cluster is by far the most risky - there's a long row of pins connecting the LCD display(s) to the main circuit board - these must be desoldered, and they must be desoldered PROPERLY. It's a "through-plated" board (techos out there will be familiar with that term), and if not desoldered correctly you can write off either the board or the display window. This will mean you're up for a COMPLETE NEW CLUSTER - somewhere in the vicinity of 400 bucks for one of those - and it's STILL GREEN!! The facia in the stereo is also a little bit tricky, but not quite as tough as the cluster. If your car has the dual zone electronic climate control, this is also a fairly delicate assembly and needs care. The bottom line is that you'll have to be comfortable with not only the soldering side of things, but also to strip a sub-assembly, noting how it went together in the first place, and then be able to put it BACK together. Don't forget to put all the screws back in when you're putting the car back together too - else you might end up with a rattle or two you never heard before.
Q: I'd like to have a go at installing this mod - I did a little soldering at school and built a crystal radio when I was a kid. Can I do this?
A: I would very strongly suggest that without the right level of experience and access to the right tools, you should NOT take this job on. There's just plenty of situations which could end up very costly if the wrong tools or techniques are used. For those who work in the electronics industry and are comfortable with soldering (especially with surface mount components), then it's quite straightforward. For another who "built a Dick Smith kit years ago...", I'd suggest you get friendly with a good technician.
Q: I already have a HSV/Calais and my gauge dials are already white. Can a kit be customised so as to change all the other illumination, and leave the gauges the way they are?
A: Of course! If you need a kit which departs a little from the standard types, let's talk. Also if you have certain accessory switches (such as bluetooth etc.) extra LEDs can be included to cater to these items.
Q: OK, you got me - I don't feel comfortable to do it myself, so I'd like you to perform the mod. What are my options?
A: If you're in the Sydney area, that's easy - I'm located in the Western suburbs. Alternatively, I can do the work on a "mail-in / mail-back" basis - either all items, or just those you're not confident with. This work can be done overnight and the items on their way back the following day. The last option is to keep an eye out for the "ASR Roadshow" - I'm planning a trip to each state capital (in Aust) to perform full mods for folks if enough interest is shown. The first Roadshow trips are planned for early 2007.
Cheerz!
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Originally Posted by Phreddy
