Sub box install in VZ SV6

[matt-chops]

Hey guys,

Over the weekend I scored 2 x 12" 600w subs and an 1100w amp from a mate who's moving overseas. He said I can have them for nothing just as long as I actually use them, not just stash them in the garage... which is fair.

Never having really had a great deal of experience setting up car stereos, I would like to achieve the following, but if it's impossible or just plain stupid, tell me so.

- I will be using the stock 6 speaker, 6 stacker stereo that came with the car. Is there provision for wiring connections etc. for this install with the stock stereo?

- I want to mount both subs in a box and have the amp maybe mounted to the back of it, then the whole lot anchored to the boot floor. Does that work?

- If I install the box in the boot of the car, can it be set up to be removed in the case that I need to use all of the room in the boot? I.E. I'm moving a lawn mower and brush cutter and need to fold down the seat, or maybe going on holiday and don't want to ruin the subs.

- Is there a carpet available that's exactly the same as the boot carpet to cover the sub box in so it matches seamlessly?

Thanks guys. Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated.

[holdenboy]

1. There is no "provisions" for adding an aftermarket amplifier / subwoofer system. What you will need to do is tap into the rear speaker wiring and connect these to either the high level inputs on the amp or purchase a line out converter, which basically converts speaker wires into RCAs, then run the RCAs to the amp.
You will also need to purchase a wiring kit if you havent already got one, this includes 5m of power cables and fuse/fuseholder, ~1m of earth cable, 5m of remote turn on cable (small, blue wire), some come with 5m RCA cables and speaker wiring etc.

2. I dont you'll be able to screw into the boot floor as the fuel tank is under there (someone correct me if im wrong), another good way to mount the box is using velcro tape, just use the "hook" half and screw this to the underside of your box, the velcro then grabs hold of the boot carpet and holds it into place, fairly easy to remove too.

3. The best way to acheive this is to mount the amp on the back of the rear seats (on one of the sides), this way you only need to disconnect the speaker wires going to the box, tape them up so they dont touch eachother or metal, and theres your boot room back.

4. As far as i know theres not an exact match to the carpet, plenty are close, but not the same. If youre really picking about this then maybe go to a wrecker and pick up the boot floor carpet, then just use that to cover the box if theres enough (ive done this before for a customer).

[VesperZ]

If you're wanting to keep your original head unit like me "Blaupunkt", you can either buy a Line Out Convertor (LOC), or there's a guy on this forum (Phreddy) who can modify your Blaupunkt unit to have Low level outputs (RCA Out). I suggest you choose the low level output conversion as you will get a much cleaner undistorted sound from low level outputs. A good quality LOC will set you back up to $200.00 and perhaps even more expensive. Using an LOC will only further distort the signal as it's already pre-amped so really all your doing is amplifying a sound that's already been pre-amplified. Not only that, you won't have to cut into your factory wires to install an LOC. Also if you choose to sell your car, your head unit will work exactly the same way if you choose to remove your amps / subs etc.

[matt-chops]

2. I dont you'll be able to screw into the boot floor as the fuel tank is under there (someone correct me if im wrong), another good way to mount the box is using velcro tape, just use the "hook" half and screw this to the underside of your box, the velcro then grabs hold of the boot carpet and holds it into place, fairly easy to remove too.

Sorry, I should have explained what I meant more clearly... I didn't mean actually screw it into the floor, but rather attach it to the kind of false floor that covers up the spare tire. Having said that, I do like the velcro idea.

If you're wanting to keep your original head unit like me "Blaupunkt", you can either buy a Line Out Convertor (LOC), or there's a guy on this forum (Phreddy) who can modify your Blaupunkt unit to have Low level outputs (RCA Out). I suggest you choose the low level output conversion as you will get a much cleaner undistorted sound from low level outputs. A good quality LOC will set you back up to $200.00 and perhaps even more expensive. Using an LOC will only further distort the signal as it's already pre-amped so really all your doing is amplifying a sound that's already been pre-amplified. Not only that, you won't have to cut into your factory wires to install an LOC. Also if you choose to sell your car, your head unit will work exactly the same way if you choose to remove your amps / subs etc.

So summing up you're saying that a Line Out Converter won't have as good a sound quality, but will leave the head unit unmodified if I remove / sell...

... and a Low Level Outputs Mod for RCA will permanently effect the head unit, but have better sound?

Did I read that right? And how much does a Low Level Outputs mod cost roughly?


Thanks for your help guys.

[VesperZ]

Basically, yes your head unit would be modified, however the only addition you are making to it is RCA output, as they don't come standard with RCA output. Then if you want to remove your subs and amps, it won't affect the original setup from factory, other than the fact that you'll have unused RCA outputs from the back of the Blaupunkt unit. You will always get better quality from a low level output rather than a high level output, the whole idea of having an amp is to amplify without distorting. I'm not entirely sure how much it will be as I got some other stuff done too, but its definitely under the $200 mark.

[holdenboy]

The main problem with using LOCs is they can introduce interference in the upper frequencies, a problem if youre planning on powering full range speakers from the amplifier, but not a problem when powering subwoofers as they will be used with a low pass filter, cutting the higher frequencies before they get to the sub (its inbuilt to the amp). I have used many LOCs on VY / VZ commodores and never had a problem when only powering subwoofers from the amp.

But, as always its up to you. You wont need a $200 LOC just to power subwoofers, Jaycar make a cheap version and it works fine. Heres the link:

http://jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?FORM=KEYWORD

As far as tapping into the existing wiring goes, if done correctly you can easily return the wiring to stock by cutting the join and taping it up. No-one will know its been done.

Im not against the Low level output mod on the head-unit, its just using the high level inputs or a LOC is much easier and dosent require internal modifications to the unit itself.


Yeah you could just make up a false floor and screw the box to that...no problems there. The velcro idea works a treat though

[XStatic64]

Tonkins car audio in adelaide did my boot install in my VZ SV6.

Pics below, if it helps. Sorry about the quality.

They've mounted the amps to either side on the back seats, amp is strapped in with a nylon belt screwed to the boot floor up near the rear centre seat.


http://www.users.on.net/~ahamilton/u...3042009049.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~ahamilton/u...3042009050.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~ahamilton/u...3042009052.jpg

I can get some better pics later if you like.