Firstly, sorry if it has been covered before, but i did search, and i didn't come up with anything.
I currently have 3 amps, and i have just spliced the trigger wire and connectted 3 wires to it,twisted it, and taped it. It's been working fine, but something is telling me there's a better way to do it. I've pulled my whole install out at the moment, so i can neaten up all the wiring ect, so is there another way to go about with the trigger cable? like a junction box or something?
Also, i want to buy a distribution block, as i currently have 3 power cables, running from the battery to the amps, as i hooked them all up using seperate wiring kits. Is there any difference between brands, cheap one's, good ones? Is there anything i should look for when buying one?
Instead of twisting them solder them properly, much much better.
The Stinger range of distribution block are really cheap anyway, just get them. I got a 0-gauge in to 4x4-gauge out for about $25.
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I've answered this a couple times the last few weeks but I'm pretty sure none have been in a dedicated thread about it.
On mine I run 1 long wire from the headunit into the 1st amp, then short runs from there to the next amp and the same again into the 3rd amp. This way there is only really 1 remote wire running across the boot, it just goes to each amp along the way. That is the neatest way I could think of doing it at the time
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^^+1 i have done the same with my trigger wire to two amps, and will be doing it to three. it looks really neat if you cut the cable the right length.
also with distro blocks, the aepro ones are fairly cheap, i have a rampage on that wasnt very cheap but seems really good.
Yeah sorry to bring it back up again, but i couldn't find anything.I even looked atall the boot install pictures, trying to come up with ideas. Are there simialar things available such as a distribution block, for the earth leads, and trigger leads? that's what i had in mind, one wire for each, then branching off to each amp from there. I will be adding a 4th amp shortly for the second sub, so i really want to have the least amount of wiring i can, i keep it looking tidy. I've seen some pictures of setup, where they have quite a few amps, and you can't hardly even see any of the wiring. My boot looks as though someone grabbed 30 metres of cable, wound it up, tied a few knots in it,then just threw it in there lol
I use the active lead from the cig lighter in the console as the trigger wire
also added a illuminated kill switch into the console![]()
VZ-Rob
98 Ron Powerchip: CAI: SuperLows: GTS Swaybars: Tinted: SS Grille: SS Vents: SS 2:25 Twin Exhaust: ASR Audio:
http://shoppingsecure.com.au/ - JC's Rep
PM me or email philthy@shoppingsecure.com.au for all your stereo needs
The headunit should say what it's trigger output puts out as to how many devices you can safely attach.
Using a relay, connect the headunit trigger wire to pin 85, pin 86 to chassis ground.
Run a wire from batt+ to relay pin 87
Run a single wire from relay pin 30, like you have to each amp already.
that way as long as you don't exceed the relay rating everything will be sweet.
So it would be a bad idea to run the trigger wire from the amp's power supply cable? Would this cause noise? We are currently getting a lot of engine noise through the speakers.
We did a quick hook up of an amp to the existing wiring that was already in the car. We have a four channel running fronts and rears but no subs at the moment. The trigger wire was already spliced to the power supply cable, we just plugged everything in.
Another quick question, sorry to steal the thread, which way do the speaker wires actually go in relation to the colour of them? The insulation is the pinky clear type with no way of telling which wire is + and which is -. The only difference is colour of the wire itself, one is copper one is a silver colour. Without actually pulling the door trims off and checking the front speakers, is there a standard way to hook them up?
Wouldn't running the remote wire from the power wire cause the amp to be on all the time since it is connected directly to the battery? I would be surprised if you didn't have battery drain issues with a setup like that.
As far as the speaker wire goes, it would depend on the guy who installed them, but with wire like that I have always used the copper one as +ve, purely because it is the redder of the 2.
If you can see the speaker cone you could use the old 9v battery trick to figure it out, but thats no good if they are hidden behind grills
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PM me or email philthy@shoppingsecure.com.au for all your stereo needs
Don't have any battery drain issues at all. Might have to run one to a switched wire.
With the speaker wires, I couldn't hear any difference which ever way they were connected so it looks like I will have to pull a door trim off.
Damn Right !
Try this
Quick easy clean
Running 2 Amps of Stock Bluapunkt
VZ-Rob
98 Ron Powerchip: CAI: SuperLows: GTS Swaybars: Tinted: SS Grille: SS Vents: SS 2:25 Twin Exhaust: ASR Audio:
i had two amps running and had the wire splited and then 1 to each never had a cut out but when i ran it from 1 to the other it always would cut out in my first car it ran from the amp power / bat and was always on and never had drain isues as long as i started it at least every 24 hours