6x9s in parcel shelf and amp in vx

[theartofnecro]

Hey guys just a few questions on installing some 6x9 speakers and an amp in a vx.

I'm looking at some kenwood 150w 6x9s in the $100 range and a 2x60 rms amp to go from the boot to my parcel shelf. I've been told there's already half welded cutouts on the shelf so they would fit easily and I'm thinking about leavin everything else stock until later. Is it true tht there's already holes?

Also how do I go about hooking up the amp to the rest of the stock system to just get the signal there? Sorry I'm a bit of a n00b buy I wanna get into this stuff a bit more so I'll do it myself and get a bit more knowledgable mate to help me out.

Is it worth doing this to get a more dynamic range plus a bit of volume for cheaper? I want to keep the rest of the stock stuff there though.

Thanks guys,
Mick

[holdenboy]

There is already cutouts in the parcel shelf to accommodate 6x9s, they have peices of metal spot welded into the holes, you just need to stick a screwdriver in there and break the welds.

If wanting to hook an amplifier up to the stock head-unit, you'll need whats called a line out converter (LOC). It basically converts high level speaker wires into low level RCA cables which you then plug into your amp. You will need to "tap" into the rear speaker wires before they run into the rear doors and run your new speaker wiring to the boot where the amp / LOC is located.

You'll also need to cut out the provisions in the top peice of the parcel shelf and buy a set of commodore 6x9 speaker grilles, Aerpro make a set.

[theartofnecro]

Hey thanks heaps for that but I want to run the 4 stock speakers off the head unit then just the 6x9s from the new amp. Is that what I'd do or is what you said only if I wante to replace the rear speakers with the new 6x9s?

[holdenboy]

Nah the rear speakers will still work, you just need to "tap" into the rear speaker wiring, not cut it completely. What i do is locate the wires, strip back the insulation using wire strippers, then solder on new speaker wires and run them to the LOC / amp.
Another way to do it without the need for a LOC is to buy an amp with "high level" inputs, this allows you to connect speaker wires straight to the amplifier as an input.

[theartofnecro]

Ok then. So then does tapping the rear speakers do the signal or power? Or both?
Won't it reduce the quality of the signal to the 6x9s?

Also (asuming that tapping them doesn't do the power) how should I go about getting power to the amp?

Sorry about all the questions but your really helping me haha

Cheers

[holdenboy]

Tapping into the speaker wires gives you an audio signal (so the amp knows what to amplify). You will need two sources of power, one is constant power straight from the battery. You'll need an amp wiring kit which includes the power/earth cable, fuseholder, remote cable,RCA cable and speaker cables.

See the pic below which gives you a rough idea of what to do......as far as the remote power cable goes, you need to tap into a power wire in the dash that has power when the key is turned to "ACC" and no power when the key is turned off.

[theartofnecro]

Thanks so much dude just 2 morequestions. So does the power go straight over the engine to the battery? If so that seems strange
also is the boot an alright place to put the ground if I sand off the paint in ther and stick a screw in it near the amp

cheers

[holdenboy]

The power cable runs down the drivers side of the engine bay, basically up past the fusebox, next to the strut tower and through the clutch cable grommit.

Its fine to ground the amp in the boot, a good spot is the rear seatbelt bolt.

[theartofnecro]

Ok thanks heaps man you've been a ****in huge help. I appreciate it

[Siliconslick]

it seems that holdenboy is helping out bigtime, i just chucked some 6x9s in the back of my vx commodore, you will wanna get some speaker grilles from ricerbarn. also the metal panels are not that easy to remove, i had to smack them with a hammer, wedge a screwdriver down there to give me enough room to hacksaw them out.

its not that hard.

edit: also another good grounding spot is the bolt holes for the ski passthrough thing, it works fine for me so far.

[holdenboy]

Oh yeah, thanks Siliconslick....forgot about those bolts

Those pieces of metal can be a pain to get out, ive found some is just a matter of prying a screwdriver in the gaps and breaking each weld, others werent so easy.....