hey ive recently bought 2 kicker 12" cvrs in the kicker dual box and a kicker zx750.1 amp and ive jus finished wiring it up using a kicker zck4 wiring kit (4awg) but when i hooked the battery back up ive got no pwere running to the amp (i assume as the subs arnt going at all) checked the fuses on the amp which are fine and the fuse in the power line is fine. i have no idea what it could be, im reasonably new 2 installing my own car audio but ive done it b4 so i kno a bit bout what to do but yer can someone give me any points on things to check other then fuses? wud be much appreciated
check the remote turn-on wire from the head unit. check earth from amp is decent.
yer both are fine ae.. btw the amp and subs are second hand not brand new 2007 model both any way i can check if the amp is stuffed? guy i bought em off said they were working fine so shud be going
a simple way to make sure its not your remote turn on wire is to bridge the remote and 12v from battery terminals at the amplifier. This will manually turn the amp on. IF that works, then your problem is remote turn on/headunit.
Does the amp have an indication LED? One that tells you it's on?
As said above, double check your headunit connections. The remote wire may not be hooked up correctly. Make sure your earth is on a lug screwed in properly etc.
Amp is a 750w I take it? Is that RMS?
Anything else on the circuit? Haven't amped any speakers?
Have any pictures of the box? One thing it could possibly be, open up the subs where the terminals are. Behind them, the connections could have separated. Is the box designed for a monoblock or for a 4 channel? (2 terminals or 4?)
im pretty sure it does have 1 not sure where if so tho and there wasnt one on when i hooked up the battery yer its 750rms nothing else on the circuit jus the subs.. its set up for 2 terminals its a dual enclosure so the 2 subs must be connected inside the box, ive connected the remote wire at the head unit by using male/female connectors as i dnt have a solder iron would this matter?
You need to use a multimeter and measure the resistance from the chassis to the ground terminal and if it measures pretty much 0 ohm, then measure the voltage from the ground terminal to the positive terminal on the amp to see if there is 12v and then do the same thing from the ground terminal to the remote terminal on the amp to see if it's 12v.
If all that measures fine, the amp has something wrong with it.
Last edited by StoneX; 15-12-2009 at 09:03 AM. Reason: Fixed mistake
I was about to mention getting a meter out..
Is that the light there?
mmm is the terminal box able to be unscrewed? Doesn't sound like its the subs if the amp isn't firing up at all, but doesn't hurt to double check. Shouldn't matter about the connectors, as long as you've crimped the lug connectors onto exposed copper. Main fuse is still in tact?
ok thanks for all the help guys but it ended up being the 12v wire i moved it to a diff position on the battery terminal this morning and wa la it worked and yes that is the led light was pretty happy when i seen that come on and then raced 2 the boot haha maybe i shuda checked the simple things like that b4 i posted on here lol but once again thanks for all the help