VY Ute Setup >

[adamprezz]

Just went to Autobarn and got quoted on a setup and installation on the following:

Pioneer DEH6150bt Head-unit.
Pioneer TSD1720C 6.5" Splits.
Pioneer GM6400F 4 channel Amp.
Pioneer TSSW1241D 12" Subwoofer.

Comes with the facia kit and sub-enclosure all for $1900...
I know I'll be able to get them to knock quite a bit off that by bargaining but is that price too much for what I'm getting?
He gave me a cheaper setup to think about but the sound from the above setup was amazing.

Just asking for advice, thanks guys.

[holdenboy]

Well i just did a quick bit of research on that system through Ryda.......granted, they have very cheap prices for 90% of their gear, so if you can get close to their prices at your local store thats great. Anyway, heres the breakdown:

Head-unit: RRP - $549 Ryda - $388.85
Splits: RRP - $549 Ryda - $338.85
4ch. Amp: RRP - $399 Ryda - $274.85
Sub: RRP - $299 Ryda - $237.65

So thats a total RRP of $1796 and the total Ryda price of $1240.20.

Now, factor in the price of a facia kit, subwoofer box, wiring and installation......roughly between $350-$450.

So thats a grand total RRP of $2146 - $2246, using Ryda's prices $1690.20 - $1590.20.

In conclusion, its not a bad deal....especially if you can knock it down to say $1650-$1750.


Now, to the actual system theyve put together for you:

Good points:
* Great head-unit
* Good front splits (could get better by going with another brand)

Bad Points:
* Amp is not nearly powerful enough, especially when the rear channels are bridged for the subwoofer (produces 150wrms when the sub is rated at 350wrms).


It comes down to what you want ultimately, that system will sound nice, im not saying it wont. But it will be lacking in authority when it comes to sub-bass. Utes are hard to get good bass response from (especially with a pre-fab box which i think they'll be using). So it helps to have as much power as possible for the sub.

[Luke0011]

Amp is better used as an anchor for the persons head that designed it.

[adamprezz]

Wow thanks for that... Do you recommend an Amp that would be ideal then?

[HCVP]

In most cases it's ideal to have a seperate mono-block amplifier for you sub. Obviously this would add to the cost of the overall setup. You've got yourself a good head unit there, and those splits aren't too bad either . Does your budget extend to adding a second amplifier? The problem with building a complete system within a set budget, is that your most likely have to skimp out somewhere. In this case, it would be the amplifier.

Like Holden boy said, if you want any real authroity out of the sub, your going to have to give it more power. Even a cheap mono block, such as this one > Ryda Car Audio - Clarion Car Audio APX1301 Car Amplifier($172.20) would make the world of difference as to how it would sound. It would also offer you far better tuning capabilities, such as being able to bridge the 4 channel, should you choose to go with that one, to your front speakers. That would give you 150rms per channel to your fronts, and 300 to your sub.

BTW, you said you liked how this system sounded in the store. Something to remember, the sub they demonstrated for you, would most likely have been connected to a mono block, that would also have had on display. So you are hearing it with closer to its rated input power. The amplifier they put in the bundle for you, would not have been the same amp running the sub in the store. So what you hear, isn't always what you get.

[holdenboy]

If you want to stay all Pioneer, and not spend too much more than the ~$1900, then go with the higher powered Pioneer 4ch.:
Ryda Car Audio - Pioneer Reference 1200W 4 Ch Amplifier($728.85)

But even that amp will only provide a medium gain. If you can stretch it another $200-$250 im sure the guys at Autobarn could suggest a monoblock with 300-400wrms.

[adamprezz]

I've just got my hands on the following:

Kenwood Headunit - KDCMP5043U
Pioneer Amp - GM5400T
Pioneer Sub - Q1241SBOX
Pioneer Splits - TSD1720C

All with the wiring kit & fascia etc... $700

[holdenboy]

You do realise that amp is only a 2 channel?
It produces 125wrms x 2 or 380wrms zx 1 bridged.

You have two options here:
1: Use this amp to power your subwoofer (380wrms is ideal) and power your $350 splits off the head-unit (not ideal).
2. Use this amp to power your front splits (125wrms each is a little o****ill but still completely fine) and buy another one (or a monoblock) to power your subwoofer.

This sub only has a single 4 ohm voice coil, so buying a monoblock to power it is kind of a waste, monoblocks are designed to produce more power under a lower impedance (ohms), in particular 2 ohms, some even go down to 1 ohm (and make more power again).

So basically, my advice is to buy another GM5400T and bridge it to power the sub.

[Branch]

Please remember that Ryda doesn't include GST on their pricing...

[holdenboy]

Please remember that Ryda doesn't include GST on their pricing...

From the Ryda Website:

GST Inclusive Pricing

All prices on our website are inclusive of GST. Please note GST is displayed here as a component of the total price and is not added on . It is shown for payment purposes only.

[Branch]

Please remember that I stuffed my last post up by misreading my last receipt from them.

[holdenboy]

Thats cool

Got me thinking too.

[clark522]

This is the setup i have in my vz ute:

Kicker ZX200.2 ZX 2 Channel Amplifier - to power the speakers
Sony XSL12S 12" Slim Car Subwoofer x2 - one behind each seat
Pioneer DEH-P4150UB Car CD MP3 IPOD USB Tuner
MB Quart DSC 1000.1 - amp for the subs
Alpine type s splits

Cost around 2g's installed but i know someone at jb so i got about a thousand off the rrp. Im happy with what it sounds like. Amps probably too big for the two subs but i wanted the biggest one there lol. Dont know if any of this will help but i thought i'd post it up so u can see what someone else has done in there ute.

[HCVP]

How do you figure the amp for the subs is too big? I'd be more inclined to say that the amp for your front splits is too small