Wanting Clarity back in Vx

[Ray De Man]

Hey guys, I'm looking to either filling the old 6x9 holes in my rear shelf with my old 4 way Clarion 6x9's or adding some sort of comp setup. The reason is, I'm missing the clarity I had before I removed them. If your confused, I removed my Clarions to make way for the Kicker L7's as speakers was hitting box. So... I removed the 6x9 and put 6 1/2" coax in rear doors.

So my question is... if I was to put the Clarions back in, what size spacer do I buy? It needs to go up by 1cm to clear box but also not bulge the interior shelf?
Second idea would be adding a comp setup in it's place using the 6x9 holes, any ideas?

I will be amping them, so not sure to buy the Jl Audio amp which has 6 Channels or running two sets (6x9 & 6 1/2" Comps) of my current Pioneer amp and the rear door speakers of the head unit.

[holdenboy]

Well, if you had the clarity when the 6x9s were in there then i say put them back in. A set of MDF spacers (12-16mm) will work, either make them up yourself or buy some, like these.
I dont think they will hit on the parcel shelf, theres a fairly large gap in between the metal and the shelf isnt there?

Run them off your current Pioneer amp, if you really want to connect the rear door speakers then the head-unit will be fine. But you havent given much info on the amps you want to use, youve probably stated it in other threads but i CBF searching

[Ray De Man]

Well not even sure if those spacers will fit Holdenboy due to the 6x9 already rubbing against the shelf, from memory. I did try before to make a spacer but the shelf is not level/flat, it is pressed (can't think of the word sorry) shaped and 6x9's fit into it. Someone correct me if i'm wrong...

My system;
Pioneer (deh 9850bt) Head unit
Kicker 6.5"( RS65.2) Componants up front
Kicker 6" (KS600) Coax in rear doors
Kicker (DS12L72) x2 Solo-Baric L7 Subwoofers
Pioneer (PRS-D4100F) 4 Channel Amp
Alpine (MRP-M1000) Mono Amp

These Clarions (SRR6946) will be going back in if I can get them to fit. If no go, can I or is there any good brand with good clarity that will fit into the 6x9 holes using a spacer of some sort? I remember years back Kenwood did make really good speakers, they were so light weight and used the smallest magnet, so locations were easy. Is there anything out there like these or could someone recommend some?

Oh... If I get them to fit or whatever I choose to go for, I will be running it off an JL Audio G6600 G Series 6 Channel Amplifier.

[Ray De Man]

Anyone????

[holdenboy]

Hmm, well ok i think the parcel shelves in those arent flat, and only have a flat section for the 6x9 to screw to. If the top of the parcel shelf just about hits on the speaker as it is, then maybe a spacer is out of the question.......but i thought there was plenty of clearance (well, alteast 12mm)?

Anyway, i know those speaker Kenwood came out with a few years ago, "dual mags" i believe.....pity they dont make them anymore. If youre not after more bass, then i think a decent set of 6.5" coaxials should do the trick, ofcourse running of that amp. Heres a few that i think will sound good, but as always i suggest you go into your local car audio store and listen to a few. Splits probably wont be needed, but maybe others can comment on that.....i'll stick with coaxials

Ryda Car Audio - Boston SX65 5" Car Speakers($198.95)
Ryda Car Audio - JL Audio TR600CXI 6" TR Car Speakers($150.35)

Another option would be to remove the Kickers in the rear doors and move them up to the parcel shelf (with suitable spacers screwed in from underneath the shelf maybe?).

[Ray De Man]

Thanks for your responce holdenboy. I manage to fit the 6x9's this afternoon. I made some spacers out of thick foam (lite n easy) box and stuck thin ply to either side of spacer. It may sound dodgy but my idea was for it to compress when mounted, rather then a solid spacer.

I wasn't after more bass from the 6x9, it was purely the quality it produced, mids and trebble. They are 4 ways so no need for components and when amped they sound awesome.

Now one problem sorted another still exists!!! I can't remove the bloody head-unit to get to the speaker wires! The keys don't do f**k-all. I never fitted it, it was done professionally, so any ideas on how to remove? Any tricks of the trade?

[holdenboy]

Fair enough, as long as they are held it properly and the sub box is still in there, thats fine.

As to your other problem, your head-unit will be mounted one of two ways:

1) Used the "cradle" or "mounting sleeve" that came with the unit, in normal cases the keys should work, but because it is a bloody tight fit the retaining clips will sometimes not have room to actually work. What i do to remove them is take out the pocket underneath the unit (just clips into place) and put your hand under the unit and in around the back of it, with some force pull the unit out towards you, if you like insert the keys before doing this just incase they have clipped into place. Hopefully the unit will slide back out. It will take a moderate amount of force to remove it, but not gorilla style if you get what i mean

2) Mounted using to metal straps on either side of the unit, they are screwed to the unit then extend down into the pocket area (on either side of the unit) where they are screwed into the stock metal cage. You can easily find out if this is the case by removing the pocket and looking on either side of the stereo (below the unit) and you'll see the metal straps and screws, undo the screws and once again, put your hand in under and to the back the unit and pull it out towards you, should still be a tight fit but it'll come out.


Let me know how you go.

[Ray De Man]

Ok no worries, i'll have a crack at it. Pretty sure last time I couldn't find any metal straps at either sides but could of looked beyond that. I'll let you know my progress. Thanks holdenboy.

[Ray De Man]

Ok well removing HU didn't go to plan. It looks like it's been mounted a different way. I removed pocket, HU surround and inserted keys but no joy. I looked further into it and it seems its mounted behind the black plastic holder supporting the cage. The only way I can get to it, is to remove the dash panel the goes around the switches and knobs! How do I get that panel off??? I can see a white plug when i removed pocket but can not gain access to the wires.

[holdenboy]

Might be an idea to take a quick picture of the bottom of the head-unit (with the pocket out), i only know of those two ways to mount a head-unit in a VT-VX, does it have the metal cage like whats below?

[Ray De Man]

Yep that's in there too. All headunits have that outer cage, which locks the headunit in place by clicking in place with side tabs and using the slots when pushed open to mount cage to frame. Or you can use the fixing brackets as you mentioned aboue to make it more secure.
I can see that is how it's mounted but there is a plastic surround that's over them and can't access screws as brackets are behind. The question is, do I have to remove the whole dash surround to get to the inner plastic support to gain access to the cage screws?
Oh, how do you post a pic to show you?

[holdenboy]

I realise all units have that cage, its just theres two ways to mount the unit in your car, one uses the cage, the other uses metal straps and screws into the original Eurovox cage.

If the cage is there, all you need to do is insert the keys at each side of the unit, put your hand under the stereo and your fingers up around the back of the unit, with some force pull the unit out towards you.


Anyway, to post pics click on the "go advanced" button under the quick reply tab (at the bottom of the thread). Go down and click on the "manage attachments" button. A new page will open up where it has "choose file" buttons, click on one of them and find the location of the pic you took on your pc. Once youve done that hit the "upload" button in the same square, it should upload the pic, hopefully