My 0awg touched my extractors the other day.. Burnt to a crisp. What's the best option?
I know it's my own fault for not fixing it properly. Should have put some saddles on there or something.
But yeah best option? Join the copper and heat shrink from above the pedles where I've got it running? Or move the fuse box to where it's virtually in accessible next to the extractors and under the 3way heater thingymabob?
Autobarn cheapest? It's like 20 bucks a meter for 0awg
Good luck joining 0AWG, not really possible.
So it burnt on the battery side of the fuse? If so why not just replace the length going from the battery to the fuse?
150db in a commodore =
If you have any welders places around your area,maybe buy some welders cable,its the same sort of stuff and its heaps cheaper. might not be as "pretty" as he wiring from autobarn or places like that but i payed like $4 or $6 a metre for the same sort of size,that was a little while ago though
Yeah being an electrician I've joined some big stranded stuff before at trade school at stuff, not that big and just for a bit of playing around. Was thinking about shaving off 20 cms or so and trying for a good solid join. But nah it was on the opposite side of the fuse. I wish it were that easy to do.
Ah yeah. Never actually thought about that. Might look into it.. It's under my bonnet and trim lol, don't care for looks, as long as it does the job its intended to do.
Cheers
If your an electrician shouldnt you have access to tonnes and tonnes of thick copper cable?
My VY Berlina Build Thread - Mainly Stereo
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ure-heavy.html
if your an electrician you wouldnt be asking this question... and you wouldnt have ran it next to extractors!
i suggest you replace the section, or alternatively you could buy two lugs, lugging each of the burnt ends then bolting them together and tape the hell out of it.
you could also potentialy use a chemset to join it but best and cheapest is prob replace the section.
Hmm, well ok. See how you go soldering it together![]()
150db in a commodore =
you could try to find a bigger version of these
DUAL BATTERY CABLE JOINERS SUIT 6 & 8 B&S SOLD AS SINGL - eBay 4x4 Accessories, Exterior, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 19-Feb-10 19:32:14 AEDST)
i think ive used them a couple times at my work, you will need proper battery lug crimpers for these though and if you really wanted you could probably use a gas torch and put some solder in aswell
Bobski, did you install it or someone else? I know many professional places put the fuses right close to the battery, however people who take the time and do it a bit slower usually put it right before the firewall, and this is one reason why :P While you have the chance why dont you move the fuse box to there and get new cable back to the battery? Or if you want a quick fix just put another fuse box in, and run two?
Usually dont you want the fuse within 30cm of the battery though?
Still a good idea.. running two decent fuses would probably offer less resistance than trying to join the broken cable.
My VY Berlina Build Thread - Mainly Stereo
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ure-heavy.html
That is what the manafacturers state in manuals designed for backyard installers (so that it's not dangerous when the above happens because many people go through the clutch hole in Auto's. But if you are running the cable through the proper power grommet (especially in the newer vehicles) the best place to put it is right near the firewall. People who do the job properly keep the 0AWG away from hot extractors and moving parts and so it's fairly safe. A fuse works the same anywhere along the line, a 250Amp fuse will only allow 250Amps to come through that part of the cable, no matter where it's put. Would suck if your house had to have it's fuses within even 30 metres of the power generator!
Just grab yourself another ANL fuse holderNot too expensive either that way
sorry to nudge up the thread. But I did eventually just join them together. Crimped a barrell lug over the join and then put some heatshrink over it and finally some corrigated conduit.. Works a treat.