Well firstly, we can't tell you how much it's going to cost for someone else's work.We can't even give you a rough estimate because you weren't specific about the type of work you wanted done. A custom boot install, can be anything from a bare MDF enclosure, to trimmed, fiberglass, painted, false floors, the list goes on.You need to decide on the components, and the layout's you want.
As far the sub/amp deals you've posted, the 4x12's are going to be louder than a single 15, given the increase in cone surface area.I think it also represents better value aswell.The downside however, is that you will most likely be limited to a sealed enclosure setup, due to the size required for a ported setup.Not saying it couldn't be done, but you'd need a good fabricator/installer , and a lot of money, and at which point the cost would begin out weigh the gains.So my advice, would be to go the single sub route.
The next thing i should probably point out, is that your currently comparing different subs on a dollar to dollar basis, rather than what suits your needs.You need to decide on what your after out of a sub install, SQ SPL,sealed, ported, what size ect, then look at suitable components that are within your budget.
Hooking up amps, you need what is called a line out convertor, commonly abbreviated as LOC.Many places offer these, we also have a forum member's/sponsor's, who offer these products, and perform the instillation work.
6x9's, in the rear shelf, 6x9's are commonly chosen for their extra bass response over your typical smaller coaxial speakers.However this bass response is only applicable when they are run in full range, or full pass.With the addition of any sub, the best thing to do to improve the performace of your components, is to use what is called a High Pass Filter, abbreviated as a HPF.What this does is, it cuts out the low frequency signals (i.e bass) above a set chosen point,that are being sent to your otherwise full range speakers, such as your front and rear.Without the need for your speakers to reproduce low frequencies signals, they can in turn receive more power, play louder, and clearer, before distortion.
As far as the selection of replacement front door speakers, this is up to you. All i can suggest is that you listen to as many different offerings within your price range as you can, and make your decision based on that.One thing i can suggest though when comparing different set's, request that they run them all set at the same HPF level, and with a sub playing.There is no point is listening to an array of speakers on a demo board in full range mode, if that's not the application they are going to be used for.
With response to your idea about the sound deadning, in my opinion i'd rather see people use sound deadner in some cases before upgrading standard components to aftermarket.Road intrusion noise, is the biggest killer of sound quality your ever going to come across, so correct application of sound deadning materials in the right area's, can sometimes make a bigger difference, than swapping out all of your compnents for more expensive ones.So don't skimp out here...


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