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Thread: Going To Be Building A Custom Twin 12 Ported Box

  1. #1
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    Default Going To Be Building A Custom Twin 12 Ported Box

    Hi
    as the title states im looking to build a twin 12" ported box for a set of cadence wilde beast subwoofers

    i was thinking of putting a slot port on each side faing forward along with the subs
    very similar to this http://bottledrage.com/images/DSC02969.JPG

    im looking to make it fit inbetween the shock mounts in the boot of a vs

    im gonna mount it up against the rear seats with the subs facing the tail lights

    im just wondering if anyone could recommend the dimensions of the box and slot port lengths
    so i got it close as possible to the recommended enclosure size

    all the specs for the sub are at the folloing link

    WB12-4 12

    any help or recommendations would be great
    thanks
    adrian

  2. #2
    acarmody is offline Donati..Whoa Green
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    Default

    Here you go, right there on the link you gave us. http://www.cadencestore.com/cadence_...X%20CHARTS.pdf

    So really depends on what frequencies you really want to play. I would personally go the 2.75 or 3 cubic foot box.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by acarmody View Post
    Here you go, right there on the link you gave us. http://www.cadencestore.com/cadence_...X%20CHARTS.pdf

    So really depends on what frequencies you really want to play. I would personally go the 2.75 or 3 cubic foot box.
    yea i found that not long after lol

    im just trying out different dimensions for correct volume to suit the back of the car
    at the following
    Speaker Enclosure Volume Calculator

    any idea as to how i should go with the port

    also looking to build it from 19 mm mdf and to double it up for the baffle board
    i noticed it was saying 6x6 or 7x7 (2.75 vs 3 cubic foot) inches but i was hoping to it the height of the box or maybe or should i go with just a normal round port at the recommended length
    such as these like 1 or 2 in each side
    Speaker Box Port - Dia 110mm x 160-280mm Long - Jaycar Electronics

    i reckon making a slot port say 3 inches or so on each side will be the easiest tho and right angle it at the back of the box if the length is needed (just like the pic)

    well its mostly rnb, hip hop , and some house music/club music (so whats generally good tuned frequency all round ? )
    i just dont want some songs to sound like a deranged mountain goat that's had a bad burrito or similar

    just found this really good link for a port calculator
    http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31

    so far my list is as follows
    http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...l&form=KEYWORD
    polyurethane base wood glue or polyurethane construction adhesive
    19mm mdf all round double sheet for the baftfle board (gonna get bunnings to pre cut all the bits to required size)
    suitable wood screws with pre drilled pilot holes
    (gotta measure the boot up 2moz so i can get accurate measurements fro everything
    Last edited by itchy123; 10-06-2010 at 08:29 PM.

  4. #4
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    You need to decide on what frequency you want to tune your port to, and then we can go from there.

    I always reccomend round port, as aposed to slot port. Round port's are not only easier to build and calculate, but also offer the oppurtunity to alter the tuning fq at a later date.

    But between slot vs round, there are no advantages/dissadvantages, they both do the same thing.

    Is there a particular reason you want to build a ported enclosure, rather than sealed? What amp are you using, how much power do you have on tap?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by HCVP View Post
    You need to decide on what frequency you want to tune your port to, and then we can go from there.

    I always reccomend round port, as aposed to slot port. Round port's are not only easier to build and calculate, but also offer the oppurtunity to alter the tuning fq at a later date.

    But between slot vs round, there are no advantages/dissadvantages, they both do the same thing.

    Is there a particular reason you want to build a ported enclosure, rather than sealed? What amp are you using, how much power do you have on tap?
    im looking for a good all round tuned frequencey for pretty much all types of music ( any recommendations ? )

    just kinda like the idea of having the ports facing out as they will take up less space and dont want em on the sides as i had a twin 10 box i made with side ports and they were causing mu rear speakers to bottom out and distort (ports were right under them pretty much )
    just like this


    cadence recommend a ported enclosure , but i have one in a big sealed box i made and it goes pretty good and is clear (mainly wanna hook up 2 so i get a 2 ohm load rather than 4 ohm)

    i will be using a cadence z777-dg monoblock that puts 800rms into 2 ohms and 1600rms into 1 ohm (will be looking for a new amp thats around 1500 in 2 ohm tho)

    edit*****
    accoriding to the first calculator on this link http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm the sub is suitable for sealed or ported enclosures (from qes and srf values)
    ive got no probs making em into a sealed as i find it alot cleaner bass
    but what volume would i be the best for all round bass ?
    Last edited by itchy123; 10-06-2010 at 09:00 PM.

  6. #6
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    32-34 hz is usually what most people tune to when porting. An amp with a subsonic filter is also a good idea when using ported enclosures.

    If you like the way they sound at the moment with a sealed enclosure, then you might want to stick with sealed. Do you know what size the current sealed enclosure is that you currently use? A lot of subs benifit from a sealed enlcosure larger than what the manafactuer reccomends.

  7. #7
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    On a different note, that sub from cadence is quite odd. 750rms on a single 4ohm coil. What were they targeting with that one? Finding a monoblock amp that matches the handling capabilities, let alone some headroom, at 4 ohm, is going to set buyers back a lot of money. To the point where you could probably buy a better sub, to make the most out of a lower impedance amplifier.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by HCVP View Post
    On a different note, that sub from cadence is quite odd. 750rms on a single 4ohm coil. What were they targeting with that one? Finding a monoblock amp that matches the handling capabilities, let alone some headroom, at 4 ohm, is going to set buyers back a lot of money. To the point where you could probably buy a better sub, to make the most out of a lower impedance amplifier.
    750 is on the 15s
    the 12 is 700
    its part of their competition series quite a few years back when they were using the 2000 rms and up amps to run 4 of them at 1ohm
    ive got 3 of them they are from the cadence ambulance which had a massive monoblock powering them
    i bought all the stuff he had left from the front 6 sets of splits and 3 out of the 4 subs ,he kept one
    they are pretty big solid subs so i though may as well hang on to one or 2

    as for the box im gonna give a slot ported a go and if i dont like it ill make a sealed one as well and see how it goes (got some time off so i may aswell lol)
    but yea tomorrow ill work it all out after i got the exact measurements from the boot

    edit ****
    Quote Originally Posted by HCVP View Post
    32-34 hz is usually what most people tune to when porting. An amp with a subsonic filter is also a good idea when using ported enclosures.

    If you like the way they sound at the moment with a sealed enclosure, then you might want to stick with sealed. Do you know what size the current sealed enclosure is that you currently use? A lot of subs benifit from a sealed enlcosure larger than what the manafactuer reccomends.
    yea an amp i had before had all the filters and such was really good caus i could really fine tune it

    the box is massive i got it atm lol
    its pretty much the size im looking to make this new one
    i originally made it for a a 15 i was gonna port it as well

  9. #9
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    Have you thought about loading the subs off the tailgate, as aposed to mounting them on the hump? Or do you need the boot space?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by HCVP View Post
    Have you thought about loading the subs off the tailgate, as aposed to mounting them on the hump? Or do you need the boot space?
    ive got the current one just sitting near the tail lights and it does sound the best there
    but i have moved it on the hump and it still sound sounded good (when facing tail lights still)
    i found it sounds crap when its firing into the cabin as it seems to cancel its self out

    but yea it would be nice having bootspace lol plus i wanna mount the amps on the back of the box and have filters and levels available for adjusting by just opening the middle back seat

  11. #11
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    Fair enough, sounds like you've given it some thought, and have experimented with a few different options allready.

    Calculating internal dimensions , port lenghts ect is pretty straight forward. There's actually a few sites which have programs on them ready to use if your unsure.

    Otherwise if you know your measurements, we can give you the net volumes, port measurments ect for tuning fq if need be.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by HCVP View Post
    Fair enough, sounds like you've given it some thought, and have experimented with a few different options allready.

    Calculating internal dimensions , port lenghts ect is pretty straight forward. There's actually a few sites which have programs on them ready to use if your unsure.

    Otherwise if you know your measurements, we can give you the net volumes, port measurments ect for tuning fq if need be.
    yea ive been having a look at few lately (a good site in one of my previous posts) but i cannot get accurate untill i get the measurements of space i can work with till tomorrow (too bloody cold outside lol)

    but if i get stuck ill be sure to ask on here especially with the port length and width

    i will post up more details once i work it all out

    but cheers for the help

    thanks
    adrian

    edit*****
    my artistic design so far i made in paint lol

  13. #13
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    well this isnt looking good

    with the measurement i was looking to use each side of the box will be 1.2ft only and thats without including the woofer volume

    the boot dimensions are
    900mm wide
    350mm high
    and 400 deep (preferred)
    so now i suppose i may as well look into makng it sealed
    now i just need to know if this an ideal sealed size for the subs

    these are all the specs for it of the site
    Z=28.421
    Fs=27.37
    Pe=1000
    SPL=85.21
    Re=2.95
    Le=1.96
    BL=16.8
    Xmax=0.014
    Cms=0
    Qms=4.09
    Qes=0.47
    Qts=0.42
    Sd=1E-5
    Vas=49.8
    Type=0

    thanks in advance
    adrian

  14. #14
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    Height? = 14 Inches
    Width? = 18 Inches
    Depth1? = 16 Inches
    Depth2? = 16 Inches
    If the above dimensions are OUTSIDE dimensions, enter the thickness of the wood below.
    Wood Thickness? = .75 Inches
    Speaker Displacement? = .2 Ft³
    Port Frequency? = 32 Hertz
    Port Diameter? = 3 Inches
    Number of Ports? = 1
    Sq. Port Ratio H:W? = 1:


    Data Output:
    Box Front Angle = 90 Degrees
    Gross box volume = 1.53 Ft3
    Net box volume = 1.489 Ft3
    Port Length = 10.246 Inches
    Port Area = 7.069 Inches2
    Port Volume = 0.042 Ft3

    this is what the calculator gave me for a slot ported box

    making the box 25 inches deep gives me a total of around 2.6 ft including the sub lol a bit too deep tho

  15. #15
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    ok worked this out for a sealed box thats pretty much perfect fit
    900 wide
    400 deep
    350 high
    equals approx 1 .73 ft each side after divider down the middle and not inlcluding sub displacment
    but after all that will be approx 1.5 ft for each sub

    so any suggestions to that plan to make it better would be great
    thanks
    adrian

  16. #16
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    I only just saw your post this morning, but i have to leave for work. I'll look over your dimensions when i get back this arvo, and post back to you.

    But to get extra volume, you would obvioulsy have to extend the whole enclosure further forward, towards the tailgate. Obviously your hieght and width are going to be limited, but you could go as far as need be in depth to get the required volume. How are your box building skills? Because there would be a fair bit of work involved in that, due to the shape of the hump, it's not exactly a simple, and straightforward build.

    If you are dead keen on mounting the enclosure there, then i would be adding a flat false floor before anything else. With a false floor in place, making the enclosure become a piece of cake. You will loose some boot space due to the floor in the deepest section now being higher and not as deep, but it makes for a much neater install, and also makes future upgrades or modifications a whole lot easier.

  17. #17
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    well atm im looking at just making the sealed box with the above dimensions i posted
    i would give a full custom boot install with a false floor a go but i honestly dont plan on keeping the car much longer (next car will get all the attention it needs lol)
    ive a made a few boxes in the past and they turned out alright but the first one i gave a go at wasnt the best lol
    but yea im gonna give the sealed one with approx 1.5 ft for each woofer a go and if im not happy no probs ill just have a go at another design
    plus ive got a few sets of 12 inch subs to swap around and see which ones i prefer
    so if u got any recommendations for the sealed box im happy to hear them
    thanks
    adrian

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