Sub&Amp

[VKCOMMO]

Hey all

Im making a boom-bin-box...

Long story short.

The sub im going to be running is most probably a fusion EN-SW12HD.

Here are the specs



Max Power Rating (Watts):500
RMS Power Rating (Watts):250
Coil Height (Hvc): 22
Compliance (Cms): 315.9
Cone Area (Sd): 53.1
D.C. Coil Resistance (Re): Dual 3.5
Electrical Q (Qes): 0.37
Force Factor (Bl): 19.117
Free Air Resonance (Fs): 26.1
Frequency Response: 22Hz - 3kHz
Impedance (Nominal): Dual 4
Linear Excurson (Xmax): 7
Mechanical Excursion (mm): 22
Mechanical Q (Qms): 3.943
Moving Mass (Mms): 117.988
Magnet Structure (Oz): 53
Sensitivity (dB) (1W/1M): 89.5
Total Loudspeaker Q (Qts): 0.338
VAS (L): 120.37
VAS (CuFt): 4.19

Now i assume the watt bit at the top is the range of watts it needs, so my 330w 2 channel will run it?

Thanks all

VKCOMMO

rep to all sensible answers

[StoneX]

What's a boom-bin-box?

The power rating to look at on speakers and amps is the RMS, continuous or nominal rating, so in this case you look at the 250Wrms. You want an amp that does 250Wrms or more to run that sub properly.

If a boom-bin-box is one of those wheelie bun stereos, then you want the most efficient speakers possible, not 250W car audio subs

[HCVP]

I'm gonna reply, just cause you mentioned rep, and i'm pretty sure i was still stuck at hitch hiker last time i checked

The rating at the top (max power) is irrelevant. What is relevant is the RMS, or continous input power rating that the sub is cpabale of handling. In this case, it is 250 watts.

You'd best be posting the make and model number of your amp, just to be sure.

BTW i'm only repeating what Stone said anyways

[StoneX]

What's rep?

[VKCOMMO]

What's a boom-bin-box?

The power rating to look at on speakers and amps is the RMS, continuous or nominal rating, so in this case you look at the 250Wrms. You want an amp that does 250Wrms or more to run that sub properly.

If a boom-bin-box is one of those wheelie bun stereos, then you want the most efficient speakers possible, not 250W car audio subs

Ok, so i have a pioneer 330w amp, it is a 2 channel...

and yeah, a boom-bin-box, mine will have a massive battery, 4 6x9's, 1 12" and a headunit...

I'm gonna reply, just cause you mentioned rep, and i'm pretty sure i was still stuck at hitch hiker last time i checked

The rating at the top (max power) is irrelevant. What is relevant is the RMS, or continous input power rating that the sub is cpabale of handling. In this case, it is 250 watts.

You'd best be posting the make and model number of your amp, just to be sure.

BTW i'm only repeating what Stone said anyways

Thanks, cause it is a copy post im only going to rep if i get it back from you.. LOL

What's rep?

Rep is Reputation, the green, grey or red (in VNplayer's case), it basically said how you can trust your information...

to add rep, you click the star that looks like a sherrif's badge down the bottom left or a post

[StoneX]

Ok, so i have a pioneer 330w amp, it is a 2 channel...

and yeah, a boom-bin-box, mine will have a massive battery, 4 6x9's, 1 12" and a headunit...

Which model amp is that? A GM-3300T? If so, that only does 150Wrms when bridged to 1 channel... It will run the sub fine and won't use too much power. Just be careful with how loud you run the sub as that amp will be overdriven (clipping) before the sub. The bass will no longer sound "smooth" when you start overdriving the amp. That means it's time to turn the sub down a little bit

[VKCOMMO]

Which model amp is that? A GM-3300T? If so, that only does 150Wrms when bridged to 1 channel... It will run the sub fine and won't use too much power. Just be careful with how loud you run the sub as that amp will be overdriven (clipping) before the sub. The bass will no longer sound "smooth" when you start overdriving the amp. That means it's time to turn the sub down a little bit

Thats the one...

So what does bridging do?, Can i run it at 330W into the sub?

But doesnt the sub need 250+Wrms to run?

[HCVP]

Thats the one...

So what does bridging do?, Can i run it at 330W into the sub?

But doesnt the sub need 250+Wrms to run?

Bridging is joining multiple channels together. Think of it as each speaker, is a channel. So a 2 channel amplifier, will run 2 speakers.
When you bridge, in the case of a 2 channel, you are combining each of the 2 channels together to form a single channel. 1 sub, so again, 1 channel.

In 2 channel mode, your amplifier produces 60 watts rms per channel, or, 150 watts rms into one channel, in "bridged mode". The 300 watt rating , is it's peak power output rating. The peak power output rating is basiacally irrelevant.

The 250 rms rating of the sub, is basically it's reccomended input rating. Meaning it will handle anything up to 250 watts continously before you run the risk of burning out the voice coil on the sub due to overdriving. But, you can run the sub at anything under that, but just don't expect it to perform at it's best is all.

[StoneX]

Bridging is joining the 2 channels into 1 so the amp can give more power to a speaker. That amp is 300W MAX just like your sub is 500W MAX, you don't look at those figures as they're not accurate. The RMS figures is what you look at, which your sub is 250Wrms and the amp is 150Wrms when bridged into 1 channel.

The sub doesn't NEED 250Wrms to run, that is the recommended power or sometimes the maximum power depending on the manufacturer. So 150Wrms will run the sub fine, just not to it's maximum potential.

[StoneX]

Damn it, why the hell are you up now?

[HCVP]

I was checking the bank waiting until after midnight

[VKCOMMO]

Thanks guys.. and IDK why, Im meant to be at school tomorrow, scratch that, in 7 hours

[VKCOMMO]

Let us know guys... Bin Boom Box

[HCVP]

Let you know what?

[VKCOMMO]

What you think about the bin idea