Help needed with cheap VT set up.

[2DIE]

Going to be running my Kenwood head unit and probably but some Kenwood 6" rounds for the doors.

Im not sure if I should bother with a amp and 12" sub or a amp and 6x9s in the shelf.

I kept blowing my amps in my VN, no idea why but they seemd to have a life of 3 months.

I dont want to spend big bucks on this, probably some $50 Kenwoods in the doors, I have been looking at this amp cos its pretty cheap.

Ryda Car Audio - Kenwood KAC-M525 2 Channel Amplifier($118.85)

I already have a sub and box and 1.5 farad capacitor but no amp.

Would it make more sense to buy some 6x9s for the rear shelf or just buy another amp and use my sub I already have?

Im not looking for anything super or to impress anyone, just want a decent cheap system that I can pump on long trips and feel a little bass.

[db_notso]

amps are cheap at the moment from jaycar
i just installed a head unit and sub WITH amp inside from jaycar for $240
the only problem is i cant have it above half db gain on the amp cause my parcel shelf rattles alot (and i couldnt be bothered atm to pull it all out que lazyness!~)
sub and amp inside i bought was 2oowatt TRUE RMS i checked it and brand is response not good to show your mates but holy crap bang for buck!~

[vr1uz-fe]

i have a response amp 500w but i find the destortion to be bad yes they have some bang for buck factor but i have found the more expensive gear has better thd's so more db and better sound for less watts

[2DIE]

Thanks for the replies but just really wanted to know if 6x9s or sub are going to be better for a cheap system.

[db_notso]

sub if sytem original speakers anrent rooted
6x9's and amp if you want BETTER sound and more CLARITY

how good is response btw i just put a noise filter on the wiring and got no distortion at all.... maybe im special

[vr1uz-fe]

im not talking that sort of distortion im talking thd and noise ratio jaycar provides there specs and tell you what you are getting which is great but there are clearer gear out there but yes response probaly will out do jb hifi type gear

[db_notso]

well i know after yappin about response but anyway

my skylines all had clarion in it dodgily fitted by some moron first year mechanic (woops) and still coped fine !~
dont know if you can still get there PURE ENERGY speaker though
these ones are very similar in specs.. "Clarion SRG6920R"
i just like component 6x9 for clarity personally
but with an amp clarion really excels above my mates 6x9's was like having a sub in my last one but i had a 500watt rms amp running em they blew from overflex eventually (woops) had double bass on constantly you live you learn huh? !~

[sweefu]

You do not need a capacitor at all, firstly.
Secondly, what is your budget? For cheap are you thinking around $1k?
Or less?
You would be better to spend your whole budget on some entry level splits for the front and an amp to run those, then at a later date you can add a sub/amp combo for the rear.
Or better yet you could buy a 4 channel amp, use the two front channels for your front speakers, and add a sub later, running bridged off the rear two channels of the amp.

You should put your budget into the front speakers, after all those are the ones you will be listening to, and amp those, don't worry about the rears, they are for your passengers.

But a budget would really help, then we can suggest some gear for you.
Cheers.

[db_notso]

go for clarity man and go with your instincts !~
no capacitor unless your exceeding 120amps current draw thats a lot of amps.

[sweefu]

Just so there is no incorrect info here, i'll clarify that you will not need a capacitor even if exceeding 120 amp of current draw. My mono block has the capacity to draw more than that alone, and i still have never had any bad voltage drop, headlight dimming or anything like that, same in my last car (VS) i had a combined total current draw of 135amps, never had a single issue. It is all about proper wiring size and correctly upgraded engine bay wiring where needed.

[db_notso]

okay mate sorry for the confusion i caused
i just am very electrically anal and like to cover my voltage ahead of a drop so when i got cash to upgrade no dramas

soz your 100% right im just anal as f***

[2DIE]

Budget is a few $100

What I already have is

Kenwood MP3 player - 50x4 and 1 Aux out
Daewoo 12" 1600W sub in box
Pair of Performance Teknique 6.5" 400W 2 ways
1.5 farad capacitor (used 8 gage wire but interior light would still dim when I had music pumping so got told to hook this up)


Not really fussed if I dont use any of the old stuff but will be using the head unit.

I doubt Ill be upgrading it at any stage in the terms of spending a ton of cash on it, I just wanted some bass and loud music on the cheap.

As for splits in the front yeah I can manage that but with amping them I dont see how to set it up as Ill have the amp in the boot and then have to run the wires back up the front again and in the doors? I just wanted to use the factory wiring and at most run a amp either to power 6x9s or a sub.

I know Im the driver and the sound will be coming from the front but it will be coming from under my legs, I'm 6'6" and I slide the seat right back on the rail then have to put the back rest a fair way back too so my head isnt through the roof so I would be way closer to the rear door speaker pods than to the front.. not that I want to put amped splits in the rear doors either.

Not only some of the things I can think of like fader wouldn't work for front to back but putting splits in the front it would only be running 2 of the 4 channels and still I would have to rewire everything, I just want to keep it simple.

Still thinking some Kenwood 2/3 ways in the doors, and either sub or 6x9s but cant make up my mind.

Splits might be cool but I dont think that splits running on a amp are going to be better bang for buck than 4 door 2/3 ways with a sub or some 6x9s running off a amp.

[db_notso]

cheap effective response from jaycar said it once say it a hundred times is best bang for buck and the watts they say is actual or lower watts of power i love that stuff!~
and due too sub and amp together took no time to install!~

[2DIE]

Just putting this here for future refrence and to see if anyone wants to leave feedback.

I have decided not to have a sub in the boot or 6x9s in the shelf.

This is the plan so far, subject to change.

Ill be using the 8" sub mounts from a VT Calais.

Head unit:
Kenwood KDC-MP336AX
TDF
14 Segment FL Display (8 Digits, Scroll on/off possible)
Rotary Encoder & Jog Control Knob for Easy Operation
Tel Mute
Maximum Output Power : 50W x 4
1 Preout
AUX Input (Front)
System Q
Bass Boost
WMA & MP3 Files Playback with ID-3 Tag Display
24bit D/A Converter
Supreme

Amplifier:
Kenwood KAC-M525
Maximum Power Output 350W
Cast Aluminum Heat Sink Design
Power MOS-FET Switching Power Supply
Built-in Low-pass Filter 80Hz (-12dB/oct)
2ohms Load Capability
Speaker Level Input

General Features
Maximum Power Output 350W
Cast Aluminum Heat Sink Design
Power MOS-FET Switching Power Supply
Built-in Low-pass Filter 80Hz (-12dB/oct)
2ohms Load Capability
Speaker Level Input

Power Features
60W x 2 at 4ohms (20-20kHz 1.0%THD)
75W x 2 at 2ohms (1kHz 1.0%THD)
175W x 1 at Bridged 4ohms (1kHz 1.0%THD)

Parcel Shelf: (powered by amp)
Response 8" Paper Cone Woofer x2
Specifications:
• Nominal impedance: 8 ohms
• Power nominal: 90WRMS
• Frequency response: 38Hz - 4.5kHz
• Sensitivity:89dB (1W@1m)
• Qms: 1.458
• Qes:0.426
• Qts: 0.33
• Fs: 28.14Hz

Rear Doors (powered by HU)
Response 6.5" Paper Cone Woofer/Midrange
Specifications
• Nominal impedance:8 ohms
• Power nominal: 60WRMS
• Frequency response: 44Hz - 7kHz
• Sensitivity: 89dB (1W@1m)
• Qms: 2.02
• Qes:0.567
• Qts: 0.443
• Fs: 49.52Hz

Front Doors (powered by HU)
Performance Teknique ICBM-762
6½" 2-Way Coaxial Speakers
400W Peak Power
Neodymium High Frequency Tweeter


Already have the head unit and front speakers so the cost will be..

Amp = $118
8"x2 = $80
6.5"x2 = $70

$268


First up though I think Ill just leave the stock door speakers and the 8" subs from the Calais mounts in place a while and do things slowly.

Now say I later on I wanted to amp the front and rear doors, Id have to get another amp, run the wires from the boot back to the speakers and Id lose all front/rear/left/right fade ect, lose presents ect too?

At the moment thats my main reason for not wanting to amp any door speakers or the reason for not having splits cos everyone says you have to amp them.