VY Factory sub amp wiring?

[Fletch_QLD]

I am going to upgrade the factory amp that drives the subs in the parcel sheld. Working out the power wires will no doubt be pretty easy - but how can I identify L/R +/- speaker wires?

cheers

[Luke0011]

By looking at the colour of the wires going into the parcel shelf speakers

[keeny]

i can get u the colours later on from my wiring diagrams i used to tap my aftermarket amp and sub into.

[Fletch_QLD]

Thanks keeny - but I have worked it out - new amp installed and great results! As luke0011 suggested, I looked at the wires on the subs in the parcel shelf to get the outputs, , then worked out the inputs using a bit of trial and error and the head unit balance control...

the thing that surprised me is that there is no remote/accessory power.

Cheers

[keeny]

what kind of new amp are u running and are you still using the factory subs? and as subs?. i want to put a new amp in mine and replace my factory subs with 6x9s.

[Fletch_QLD]

got a 4 x 75w amp - using 2 channels to drive the factory subs (as subs) and it's great - better than 6x9s IMHO. I am going to use the other 2 channels of the amp to drive the front speakers - using lpf so I can wind them up a bit without distortion and lift the front end.

[keeny]

very nice im gonna have to look into it.

[Fletch_QLD]

Amping the factory subs is the cheapest/easiest mod I have ever done to lift a car stereo - I did it in my last car as well (VX Calais) THe wiring is essentially all there, and you don't need massive power to add a nice amount of kick.

Incidentally - the factory sub amp in the VY has adjustable gain on it - try winding that up for a preview of how much nicer the sound can be with a better amp...

[keeny]

i can do that on my vz too. but with the aftermarket 12 inch and amp it kinda doesnt compare. however id like a clearer sound all round and atm the subs in the parcel shelf do me no good. since the factory subs run tap off the rear speaker feed ill just add a 2 channel amp and 6x9s and hopefully that will give me what im looking for.

[HCVP]

Incidentally - the factory sub amp in the VY has adjustable gain on it - try winding that up for a preview of how much nicer the sound can be with a better amp...

Turning the gain up will do nothing but make the subs louder at a lower volume on the head unit. Gain controls have nothing to do with power output, or sound quality.

[HCVP]

i can do that on my vz too. but with the aftermarket 12 inch and amp it kinda doesnt compare. however id like a clearer sound all round and atm the subs in the parcel shelf do me no good. since the factory subs run tap off the rear speaker feed ill just add a 2 channel amp and 6x9s and hopefully that will give me what im looking for.

A 6 x 9 is essentially an 8 inch sub as it's midbass driver, with the addition of a coaxial mount midrange driver and tweeter.

Added to your current setup, it would only draw your sound stage rearwards. If you have your 12'' sub tuned correctly, then it's fq's will be mostly non directional and you should not be able to tell the majority of the time where the sub is located. With a set of 6 x 9's in place, you would wind up with a system that sounds much the same, aside from a midrange increase coming from the rear of the vehicle.

This is the reason you are unhappy at present with the overall clarity, and would only see the problem becoming worse.

[Fletch_QLD]

Turning the gain up will do nothing but make the subs louder at a lower volume on the head unit. Gain controls have nothing to do with power output, or sound quality.

Certainly - that's what I meant - it changes the dynamics of the sound - with more emphasis on the bass - just not as well as putting in a better amp.
By nicer sound I guess I meant bassier...

[Fletch_QLD]

A 6 x 9 is essentially an 8 inch sub as it's midbass driver, with the addition of a coaxial mount midrange driver and tweeter.

I think this is well covered by HCVP's commments - but I have always thought it was 'a rule of thumb' that having subs makes 6x9s unecessary.

[keeny]

ok what i want to do is remove the factory amp (which has a lpf) and subs and put in a normal 2channel amp and new 6x9s in its place. then wouldnt that give me clearer mid to high end sound from the rear?

[Fletch_QLD]

But you have an amped 12" sub in the boot? Then you should look at upgrading and amping the other speakers in the car. Quality 6.5" splits in the front with tweeters in the factory location is going to lift the high end - Or even upgrading the rear door speakers with 6.5 coaxials and amp them. True that you don't need the factory subs if you have a 12" thumping in the boot, but you don't need 6x9s either

[HCVP]

ok what i want to do is remove the factory amp (which has a lpf) and subs and put in a normal 2channel amp and new 6x9s in its place. then wouldnt that give me clearer mid to high end sound from the rear?

The sound won't be any clearer because you are mounting the speakers in the rear of the vehicle. Any benifit from replacing a speaker with one of better quality, will go straight out the window if you mount them as far away from you as possible, and have them directed at the rear wind shield.

Rear speakers serve no point from the front of the cabin. This is why even the manafactuer has given you front speakers. Upgrading your front stage, and completely deleting the rear will give you the best results.

[HCVP]

I but I have always thought it was 'a rule of thumb' that having subs makes 6x9s unecessary.

Frequencies under 100 hz are typically non directional. That means that no matter where the sub is located, you can't tell most of the time where those low fq's, or bass, is coming from. So with a good front stage, the bass will blend in and from a listening point of view, all sound comes from in front of you as it should.

A 6 x 9 produces extra midbass due to it's larger cone area. If you have them installed in the rear, then that midbass increase which are "directional" frequencies, are noticeable from the front of the cabin. Your sound stage is now drawn towards the rear, with what seem like a mix of midbass from the rear, and midrange and high from the front.

You end up with a very muddled sounding system to say the least.

There is nothing wrong with 6 x 9's, they have their purpose just like any other component. But they are not suitable for every application, and if used incorrectly just like anything else, they will return poor results.

[keeny]

this is alot to take in. i do plan to amp all the 4 door + tweeters on the dash in time. in my previous commy i had atfermarket hu running front doors + tweeters, 6x9s in the parcel shelf and the 12 inch sub via the amp. i liked the way it sounded and with people in the back of my car the sound wasnt deadened like it is with only the rear door speakers running mid/high end. if you know what i mean...