GOod setup for VY sedan?

[dingdong555]

Hey guys.

I can get the following for $350, would it be a good option? I'd obviously need a head unit and I would get a sub later on.

MRP-F300 amplifier
6"x9" SPR-69C speakers
6.5" SPR-17C speakers + all wiring.

[HCVP]

The price is reasonable, but if you were planning on adding a sub i would not bother with the SRP-69C's, put the money aside instead for your sub purchase.

[dingdong555]

Fair enough, after all, I'm in the front. Will the 6.5"s fit in the VY door?

[HCVP]

Yes 6.5 will fit, you may have to cut the mounting ring out a little, no big deal.

Also the amp is only 4 x 50, your best bet would be bridging it to 2 x 150 to the fronts.

[dingdong555]

Ah sorry mate. Haha.

So what would you suggest then for around $400 (Speakers/amp/wiring) - Not bothering about the head unit or sub yet

[HCVP]

Well if you can allready get the SPR-17C's and that amp for the above price then i would go with that. The rrp on the speakers is allready $200-250, so your getting them with the amp and the SPR-69C's for $350 ?

Use the fronts and bridge the amp, and sell the SPR-69C's and put the money towards H/U or sub later on....

[dingdong555]

Well, I've spoken to the seller and he'll accept $250 for the amp and 6.5's, sound like a good deal? Or can I do better somewhere else?

[HCVP]

$250 is allright depending on how much use they have had and how they have been treated. Maybe try and bid him a bit more on it, try $200 and see if he meets you half way?

Otherwise if the gear has been looked after then it's a decent price and for the money i can't expect that you would be dissapointed.

[dingdong555]

The speakers aren't splits, would they still be good?

[HCVP]

They are a coaxial. But the centre tweeter is mounted on a swivel so you can angle it which ever way sounds the best to you. If it was a typical coaxial with a fixed tweeter, i would have advised you straight away to avoid them as the tweeter would be angled towards your feet, and you might struggle with the height of your sound stage being too low down.

A split component system is better, but you could be looking around for a while if your trying to find a decent set of splits plus a suitable amp for the money you want to spend.

I'd mount them as they are, and play around with the angling on the tweeter. If you find that your not happy you can always look into buying a set of tweeters and crossovers at a later date to lift the height of your sound stage.

You can pick up a tweeter and crossover set from Jaycar from their Response range for $25 and would be well matched to the Type R's midwoofer. It's no big deal or huge outlay at a later date if you choose to do so...

[dingdong555]

Hmm, I'll see what he says about just buying the amp off him. I've read the sticky regarding speakers etc... and I think I'll go somewhere along the lines of.

AMP: Alpine MRP-M500
FRONT: Alpine SPR-17S
HEAD UNIT: Pioneer AVH-P3200BT

Do you think I should worry about rear speakers? I personally don't care about the people in the back, however, if you get a slightly better sound with back speakers from the front seats, I will do it.

[HCVP]

You don't get any better sound from using rear speakers, in some cases the sound can be worse if you chose the wrong components.

You especially don't want to be spending any extra money on a set of rear speakers, rather spend as much on the fronts as you can.

[SuperSixty6]

All the new Type R gear has lots it's way, I have a similar set up in one of my VY's...

Fronts being Type R 6.5 splits &
Rears being Type R Co - ax

The Co - ax are hopeless compared to the plits, Both running of 75Rms Clean power. The rears add volume and almost depth, But being down low in the rear doors you don't really hear them over the front stage.

Not much useful info there, But don't get to excited over Alpine. I am quite sure the old models were mean't to be better.

Regards,

[dingdong555]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, currently have the option of getting a Pioneer amp, the specs seem better than the Alpine MRP-M300, so maybe I should grab this? It'll be to run a pair of splits and 6x9's.

Specifications

Max Power (14.4V): 100Wx4 (4ohm), 240Wx2 (4ohm)
Frequency Response: 10Hz - 50kHz (0,-1dB)
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.008% (1kHz, 4ohm)
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 100dB (IHF-A)
Dimensions: 11" x 2-5/16" x 12-3/4"

Features
PWM MOSFET Power Supply
Bridgeable 2/3/4 Channel Capability
Balanced Isolator Input Circuit
Gold-Plated Screw-Type Power/Ground Terminals
Gold-Plated Screw-Type Speaker Terminals
Gold-Plated RCA Inputs (4 Channel)
Gold-Plated RCA Outputs (Full Range)
Hi-Volt Input Level Control (400mV-6.5V)
Variable Crossovers (separate A & B channel crossovers): 40-120Hz, -12dB/oct. (LPF/HPF)

[HCVP]

Rear speakers do not add depth to your sound stage. Music has no rear channel recordings, all you are doing is playing front signals through the rear.

But hey don't take my word for it, if you think spending the majority of your budget on some rear fill is going to transform your listening experience, by all means go right ahead.

Power outputs from 4 channel amplifiers is a little irrelavent when you are talking about two completely different set's of speakers, and you can't base an amps performance on the pamphlet handed out by the manafactuers.

[dingdong555]

But can't I run both sets off the one amp? In the end I may decided to ditch the rear's and just put the extra $$$ in a good sub or some better fronts.

[HCVP]

You can run them off the amp yes, you can run as many speakers as you like off the amp provided you don't drop the impedance level below that of what the amp can handle, in this case 2 ohm.

[dingdong555]

So if I go with the Alpine SPR-17S splits in the front, what amp should I used that will handle the splits and a single or dual 12" subwoofer?

I'm not sure if I should go with something like THIS or a decent single sub with a custom built box?

[HCVP]

You can use a 4 channel amp to run a set of fronts and a single sub if you like. The front 2 channels drive your speakers, and the rear 2 channels are bridged to form one channel to drive the sub. This method is basically the cheapest way of powering fronts and a sub, but it is far from ideal.


You can't run 2 subs though, a 4ch amp would not provide enough power, and your most likely to run into problems with the impedance levels. A 4 ch amp is just not designed for that sort of application. If you want to run more than one sub, your best option is to use a dedicated mono block amp. Even when using a single sub a mono block is preffered. Having a dedicated amp for you sub/s, and then speakers, gives you the most power to both your speakers and subs, allows your amps to run cooler, and offers more tuning capabilties through out the system.

The Kickers are ok for ghetto bass duties. If i had $500 to spend i wouldn't buy them personally, but for someone who wants to add some bass without the need to build their own enclosures amongst other things then they are allright. If you have accses to the tools to build your own enclosure and some basic mathematic abilities, then you can do much better for the money, regardless of whether you are chasing SPL or SQ.

[dingdong555]

So I'm thinking I'll but a Pioneer GM-X554 (Cheap, only $130) to run the splits off (can add read speakers if I wish, probably won't) then I can buy a mono amp for subs later on. Does that amp sound alright?

[HCVP]

You need to make up your mind exactly what you want to do, rather than just buying what components are cheap and readily available, and then tying to put them together and build something.

If your only running fronts, the you don't need a 4 channel amp, you will have 2 channels left over. Unless you have a specific use for the remaining 2 channels, such as extra power and headroom for the fronts, or driving a sub, then otherwise all you need is a 2 ch amp.

I think your best off just going into a car audio outlet, talking to them about how much you have to spend, and going from there. You seem to get confused very easily with the information given to you, i'd hate to see what happens come installation time if you decide to tackle things yourself.

I'm all for DIY first time and all that, but there's just some things that you need to know. Without basic knowledge you run the risk of not only performing a poor installation that will reflect how your components sound, but also there is the possibility of damaging your newly purchased gear.

I'm not trying to put a negative spin on things for you, but if you can't get your components in order and understand how and why, what works, what dosen't ect, then i'd hate to see you spend your money on something that's not worth while and in the end leaves you dissapointed.

Another forum member recently did this, dissregarded the information given to him, and purchased a subwoofer of the wrong impedance levels and is now having to spend 3 times the purchase price of the sub just on an amp to drive it. A whole lot of money wasted for minimal performance.

We just don't like seeing things like that happen to people, and will do out best to stop it. But in a case like this, i really think it's in your best interest to either take you vehicle in and seek the advice of an outlet who offer's installation, or try and get in contact with a forum member in your area who could perhaps help you out.. Best of luck