will 6.5 inch type r splits fit into vy front doors?

[tuckinvy]

I just bought alpine spr-17s. 6.5 inch 2 way component type r splits. got em for $270. will 6.5 inch fit into the front doors easy i heard they have to be modified abit to fit in? how do you go about getting them in?
one more thing is i want to amp them. they are 110 watts RMS each so will a 300-400w 4 channel be enough to power them? what brand amps are good to go with the quality of alpine to keep my type r's sounding really good?

[acarmody]

Yes they will fit, may have to cut back off door pod, no problems.

For the amp, we need RMS power ratings or a model number.

[NonStick Squid]

i had em in my old vx so yeah id say so. had to cut the spacer you get with them a lil bit but nothin to "custom"
i was runnin 2 splits and 2 coaxial 2 ways (both r type) off the alpine pdx 4.100 they got loud and never distorted

[HCVP]

You are better off making your own speaker mount out of MDF, rather than trying to modify the existing plastic mounting ring. Any leaks and you will immedaitely lose your mid bass. Be sure to weather treat any MDF before final fitting. If you haven't deadened your doors, i suggest doing this, and make sure that you fill any service holes aswell. If your just planning on dropping them straight in there then you will never get them sounding their best.

Just get which ever amp provides suitable input power and is within your budget. You won't find any audible difference amongst amplifiers , so just keep it in prospective to how much you have already spent.

[SuperSixty6]

I got 70RMS going to a Front set of mine, They sound O.K with this Figure.

When i bridge to 250RMS they fail pretty quick! Haha

Modification is pretty easy, Depending how anal you won't to go with the Install. The plastic pod has to have some cutting done if that's the path you choose.

[acarmody]

I got 70RMS going to a Front set of mine, They sound O.K with this Figure.

When i bridge to 250RMS they fail pretty quick! Haha

Modification is pretty easy, Depending how anal you won't to go with the Install. The plastic pod has to have some cutting done if that's the path you choose.

LOL, I wonder why?

[HCVP]

Passive crossovers will only handle power to a certain point anyway, so any extra power beyond that isn't going to make your speakers "fail" as you put it. If your speakers are not handling the rated input power , then it's most likely an issue with your high and low pass filter settings, not the amplifiers output.

I wouldn't say being anal about an install. If it was a simple drop in replacement coaxial to replace a blown speaker in a factory system then fine. But if you think that a $350 set of speakers are fine just be installed straight into the plastic pod, then i guarantee you i could make a $100 set sound better.

[tuckinvy]

will this do for the amp:? Pioneer GM-6300F, 600w.............or Boss Audio CX600 800w....................or Kicker 08ZX650.4 650w

[HCVP]

will this do for the amp:? Pioneer GM-6300F, 600w

You don't need to spend that much.

http://www.ryda.com.au/Kenwood-KAC-M...-p/kacm645.htm

Each channel is stable at 2 ohm meaning you can bridge the front and rear channels , giving you 130rms x 2 @ 4ohm.

Enough power and leaves you with money to purchase some deadning material for your front doors.

[acarmody]

I'm thinking that he can get it second hand since that's an old model. If you can get it cheap than it will work.

Or else, Shopping Secure - Ground Zero Iridium GZIA 2230HPX - (Powered by CubeCart)

[HCVP]

He could get it second hand but for $148 plus shipping would you really bother? I'd just fork out the little bit extra and get it new.

[acarmody]

I'd be the same really, though I do like the Pioneer entry range., but yeah the Kenwood is what I would go for in the same position.

[SuperSixty6]

Passive crossovers will only handle power to a certain point anyway, so any extra power beyond that isn't going to make your speakers "fail" as you put it. If your speakers are not handling the rated input power , then it's most likely an issue with your high and low pass filter settings, not the amplifiers output.

I wouldn't say being anal about an install. If it was a simple drop in replacement coaxial to replace a blown speaker in a factory system then fine. But if you think that a $350 set of speakers are fine just be installed straight into the plastic pod, then i guarantee you i could make a $100 set sound better.

I am sorry to have upset you / Gee i love JC Forums...

Have you heard the new Type R ? Or just going by reading things online?

Yeah $350 is a simple drop in for me, I guess i wasn't speaking on a broad term. But are you getting way off topic like most Threads on Forums go? He asked about mods to install, I am telling him what is basically involved with modifiying stock pods, And you going on about a more complex and installation for best SQ. Which is fine, But relax when it comes down to having a go at my help.

[HCVP]

I gave you advice on why your experiencing some of your problems.

As you said, they sound "OK". Short of a decent source and some better tuning options, unless your a fully fledged audiophile, then a set of Type R's properly installed, should keep most consumers fairly happy. Besides just hearing them, i've actually installed a few set's aswell.

If it was a simple drop in , then there's was no need at all to spend $350. Without a correct install they are not likely to sound any better than a speaker of half the price installed in the same fashion.

It's all friendly and helpful advice, take it how you want. I wasn't angry, just trying to educate people and in some cases save them money.

[SuperSixty6]

Yeah - Thats cool.

And i agree, Installation is almost everything when it comes to SQ. However you need to cover all basis, You can't be sure on a persons DIY skills OR if they are prepared to pay for installation if they do not mention it. I assume anyone could cut out the stock pods though, Hence i list the suggestion.

P.S - Who do you work for up North? Hoping to move to Townsville in the new year, May get into CA a bit more up there. PM if you got some spare time.

Regards,

[tuckinvy]

You are better off making your own speaker mount out of MDF, rather than trying to modify the existing plastic mounting ring. Any leaks and you will immedaitely lose your mid bass. Be sure to weather treat any MDF before final fitting. If you haven't deadened your doors, i suggest doing this, and make sure that you fill any service holes aswell. If your just planning on dropping them straight in there then you will never get them sounding their best.

Just get which ever amp provides suitable input power and is within your budget. You won't find any audible difference amongst amplifiers , so just keep it in prospective to how much you have already spent.

yeh that sounds like a good idea doing the MDF mountings, just not very skilled with woodwork but im sure i can figure it out or buy some already made? i want to get some dyanmat down the line yes that will be good. i would have for it to leak water in, so your saying to make it sound proof as in just keeping a good seal and it up abit from the side skirt doors?

[tuckinvy]

wow great response from everyone this forum is really helpful and knowledgable. HCVP..that kenwood does look very good and i am keen on getting that or somethint similar. and then i can amp my type r's and do a custom mdf mounting.
quik question. i am still not sure what is ment with ohms and watts between speakers and amps. for example: my speakers are 330W peak power max and 110W RMS ea. so i was looking for a 4 channel that had numbers over 110w x 4 @ 4 ohms. but it doesnt have to be that powerful or have to be 4 ohms can it be 2? which is mroe powerful 2 or 4? what does bridged do and will it work for only the front speakers? because i plan on getting back speakers to so i want a 4 channel to power them all. that kenwood was 40w x 4 @ 4 ohms so it didnt appear to me as powerful enough but it can be 130rmw watts x 2 @ 4 ohms if you bridge the front and rear together?

[acarmody]

Every speaker has an impedance set from factory, this is measured in ohms, typically levels are 2-ohms and 4-ohms, but 1-ohm and 8-ohm speakers are also readily available. If you want to get technical than Google what impedance is, but lets just say every speaker has them. Some speakers, generally subs, can have more than one voice coils, and each coil will have an impedance which can then be wired in series or parallel to create varying levels of impedance.

Watts is the measure of how much 'power' a speaker can take. RMS power rating is the true level of power that a speaker can take continuously. When a speaker is measure in Max power, this is generally the power the speaker can take for roughly a second before it dies gloriously, always ignore this rating. Always look at RMS or Continuous power ratings. And if a speaker doesn't provide either of these than don't touch it with a ten foot pole.

Neither 2-ohm or 4-ohm is more powerful, it is simply a measure of impedance. Generally an amp will make more power at lower impedance level, to a point, most amps will work at 4-ohm or 2-ohm, but many cannot go down to 1-ohm. An amp can generally go to as high an impedance as you want, but you sacrifice power.

[HCVP]

Just to add about briding - I reccomended the 4 channel amp bridged because you can get more power on a tighter budget. It does come at a cost, it effects the damping, but unless your talking about competing in SQ events, then as a average listener you don't need to worry.

Bridging is basically taking 2 channels, and combining them to form one more powerful channel. It relates to what acarmody said about impedance levels. You will see listed on an amp specifiaction sheet, 2, or 4 ohm power outputs on most multi channel amps. It can be a little difficult to explain, but i'll give it a go. Acarmody's idea about just googling it is sometimes the best way to go about it, you might find you understand some explanations better than others.

You have 4 channels, they each have a base impedance of 4 ohm. If you bridge both the front channels together, and then the rear, you've now gone from 4 down to 2. What is happening is it's actually making each individual channel operate at a lower impedance, or half it's impedance, in this case 2 ohm. Pairing each of those channels together, now brings the impedance level back up to 4 ohm, through half the amount of channels.

Now i really find it hard to reccomend ampifying rear speakers, let alone spending decent money on replacing them. I could go on for ages as to the reasons why, but instead i'll try and just find another thread covering it and link you to that so you can have a read through it.