Vx commodore Stero install and design.
Going to put a decent stero in my vx ss in the coming days.
As far as head units go, im after something simple, that has usb and is able too work with the standard steering wheel controls, looking to spend around $200-$300
In the front doors im going to go something simple, 6" splits looking to spend under $100 here
and
6x9 in the standard location in the parcel shelf
quite impressed with cadence 12" subs in the past at around $100 and matching amp im assuming will be around $300 odd
suggestions brands and places to buy would be great, also what the go with the head unit and stero controls will be
Alto Rullo
Location will help with 'place to buy'...
All head unit's will require PAC units to sync the stereo controls and H/u together (These range from 150-400 depending on who you know, and where you shop). Not 'really' worth it if you are paying RRP.
Wouldn't bother with 6x9's if you are planning on a Sub either champ, Either spend more on the front stage or speakers in the rear doors if you require rear Entertainment.
cheers for the advice, looking at ebay america... think it might be very hard to get a better deal.Originally Posted by SuperSixty6
in melbourne.
better off putting two lots of 6" in the doors over the 6x9's?
Alto Rullo
6x9's are usually installed where boot space is required, Or the likes... They generally are better at producing bass appose to a 6".
Donati..Whoa Green
No, just one good set of 6" in the front door. Most of your money should be spent on the front speakers since this is where 99% of your music comes from.
-Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
-Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
-Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Ronald Reagan (1986)
Headunits with USB/AUX are around $200, then steering wheel controls you can get as cheap as $100 as a AERPRO kit, or the expensive kits are around $250ish
Go a decent set of 6" in the front (rear aswell if you want, but as stated above it's mainly the front where music comes from)
And the subs will cancel out the 6x9's, no point going there unless you're going sub-free
Also, What I did in my VX commodore was crack open the steering wheel controls, replace the stock resistors with different values that matched up with pioneers. My pioneer headunit has a hard wired remote input in the back of it. all up cost me $2 or so in resistors and a 3.5mm jack, plus about 45mins of my time with a soldering iron
sounds easy enough... where the hell do you find the correct resistance values though...
looking at cadence 12" sub, 250rwms, hopefully should be allright, only cheap at $100 form jb
should be able to pick up an amp cheap enough from u.s. ebay too
and look for a nice set of 6" splits for the front, id imagine it would sound strange with no speakers in the back at all?
better off putting another set of 6" splits in the parcel shelf or the doors? id imagine the shelf would be a better option.
Alto Rullo
At most volumes i bet you will actually enjoy it more, Providing your stage is set correctly, Your ears will actually be able to distinguish the vocals better...
Splits in the rear is pointless, Remember splitting the speakers is for staging it correctly. When high and low freq is coming from the rear, It's all just one big noise so to speak.
Donati..Whoa Green
Nice work, I'll have to look into this, I'm pretty sure my Kenwood has a wired remote jack.
-Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
-Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
-Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Ronald Reagan (1986)
well went and brought everything tonight from jb, shipping blew the costs away buying from overseas
got a jvc headunit with mp3 and usb with 3 rca outs
4x80rms
2x250rms candence amp
250rms candence sub
6.5" candence splits- 60rms
6x9 candence 400w max...
wiring kit
single din tray
and a sub box for just under $800
going to run the splits off 2 80watt channels
the 6x9's off the head unit and sub off 250watt channel
no doubt the 6x9 will be turned down/tuned for more mid range then low level stuff
In the future i have the capacity too buy another bigger amp and run another sub or two of what i have now
then run the 6"splits and 6x9's off the current amp
looking forward too getting it all set up.
Just Commodores NSW
Sounds pretty good.. I have a jvc unit myself.. what model did u get?
im not really sure... it retails for like $230, usb front, aux in the front and 3 rca outputs
Personally I wouldn't have bothered buying the 6x9", you've just wasted money which could have been spent buying a better amp/front splits/sub. Rear speakers are for fill only! Some of the best car audio setups (you'll find plenty on MEA), believe it or not, DON'T RUN REAR SPEAKERS!!!
thats the reason i only spent $80 on them, people in the back would also like too hear music... im not building a sound comp car or anything far from it, just a basic set up everyone one i spoke too said it would be shit with no rear speakers, you need them too fill the hole
WA's ASR Rep
yeah altho saber is right i did the exact same thing as u cracker, more so if the subs got 2 much 4 the guys in the back i can turn the sub down or off and then the 6x9s can pick the bass back up if needed.
U can also set the 6x9's so they dont produce as much bass while u got ur sub going neways, that way u can get more clarity out of them 2 and b able 2 crank them more.
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okay so its all running sweet very happy.
only thing is im considering getting an amp too solely run the sub...apparently the candence ultradrive 12" subs are rated at 350rms? or 250rms... @ 4ohms found alot of conflicting information
UD12-2H 12” ULTRADRIVE - ULTRADRIVE - Cadence Acoustics, LTD
anyway what type of amp should i be looking at i was considering looking for something that will be rated around 500rms also how much difference does the impedance ( ohms rating) of the amp compare too the impedance across my sub? should they be matched or doesnt it matter a great deal ...obv ohms law tells us that you increase resistance, more current too flow..? but im not really sure how much of a difference this makes in reguards to car audio and the relationship between subs and amps... still kinda new too the details of car audio
also by freeing up the other bridged channel on my amp i can use this too then run my 6x9's.
How did you go with the steering wheel controls and how did you sort it out ?
Are your 6x9's running a High Pass Filter mate?
Will get rid of them playing anything that the subs should be playing, Try 80hz - 100hz somewhere in there usually works well.
My VY Berlina Build Thread - Mainly Stereo
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/...ure-heavy.html
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