sub draining battery

[jayvt]

i need help i love my sub and i wanna keep it.

im thinking of installing a second battery or something to stop my killing batterys and frying alternators.

any help would be coota

[Nic92]

what i used was a capacitor

[jayvt]

whats the damage on one of those

[hakhawk]

if you're killing batteries and frying alternators, a capacitor isnt going to fix it.

i think a little more detail as to whats happening will be needed before anyone can help you.

[one_and_only2004]

Do your lights dim considerably on the low notes?

[Nic92]

i think he's exaggerating a little bit on frying alts and killing bats, any sub/amp is gonna drain the battery..

[DevilDRake]

Well mine getting to the point I almost need a new battery, you could get a decent Battery and get a decent Capacitor (1-2-5-10Farad, depends how big it is)..

[HoZy]

I love how you kids talk about capacitors.

[456adam]

Upgrade all your factory earths and the charge wire to 0 gauge first.
Its often called the "Big three" google it.

[one_and_only2004]

Ditch the stupid capacitor ideas - run bigger cabling for your +ves and earths.

[somefool]

as above ^ capacitors dont do much besides add weight to your car. Get a good battery, good earths, good cabling.

[Nic92]

as above ^ capacitors dont do much besides add weight to your car. Get a good battery, good earths, good cabling.

b4 when i was running a 500rms, i had a cap installed and the bat power was fine then wen i took the cap out, it would cut out and all and wasnt enough power, so from my experience they really do help

[wrx884]

i think he's exaggerating a little bit on frying alts and killing bats, any sub/amp is gonna drain the battery..

since wen? it depends on the set up and how much amps its pulling. half the time guys dont bother with upgrading the main grounding points and/or checking the alternator is up 2 scratch.

[sweefu]

I love how you kids talk about capacitors.

I'm with you mate. We need more details, i run 2kwrms with no dimming of lights, slight voltage drop if i'm a wanker and turn the boost up.

[sweefu]

b4 when i was running a 500rms, i had a cap installed and the bat power was fine then wen i took the cap out, it would cut out and all and wasnt enough power, so from my experience they really do help

Chances are it would have all been fine on 500wrms if you upgraded the factory earths and alternator charge wire 'big 3 upgrade'. 500wrms isn't much at all mate.

[DevilDRake]

I'm with you mate. We need more details, i run 2kwrms with no dimming of lights, slight voltage drop if i'm a wanker and turn the boost up.

That's lucky xD. I'm running 800WRMS into 2 ohm and my lights dim like hell. But I'm going to assume the battery is on the way out. I am running a 4 guage kit not 0 guage, but with only have a moderate bit of power in mine it should be enough.

EDIT: And no, I'm not using a capacitor. Don't plan on it either unless I just want to stop the dimming, not for more power.

[sweefu]

If you want to stop your lights dimming, then upgrade the engine bay wiring. Batt- to chassis, Batt- to engine, Batt+ to alternator charge. go to an auto elec have them make up some decent cables with hydraulic hex crimped ends, i imagine for 4awg or even 0awg it can't cost $50, your problem would be fixed. Ensure your earths are rubbed back to absolute bare metal. Unless your battery really is f*cked.

[Nic92]

Chances are it would have all been fine on 500wrms if you upgraded the factory earths and alternator charge wire 'big 3 upgrade'. 500wrms isn't much at all mate.

ohh i forgot to mention. it was a class A/B amp and it was

Efficiency (average)

67% @ 4-Ohm
58% @ 2-Ohm

i was running at 2ohm

[StoneX]

It still shouldn't cut out unless your power supply wasn't up to the task and I know for sure that a healthy VY electrical system could run that amp with no issue. Your capacitor was a band-aid to cover up another issue.

[Nic92]

hmm, idk.. im glad i got the cap wen i did

[DevilDRake]

If you want to stop your lights dimming, then upgrade the engine bay wiring. Batt- to chassis, Batt- to engine, Batt+ to alternator charge. go to an auto elec have them make up some decent cables with hydraulic hex crimped ends, i imagine for 4awg or even 0awg it can't cost $50, your problem would be fixed. Ensure your earths are rubbed back to absolute bare metal. Unless your battery really is f*cked.

Gotta buy the bigger terminals too :P. But yeah, fair enough.

[sweefu]

Nah, all fits on stock terminals, although a bit messy looking and crowded, it still all fits safely and fine.

[Nic92]

but the stock terminals look ugly ^

[sweefu]

Doesn't mean its essential to replace them, they are still functional.

[VKCOMMO]

If you feel like a new battery, a D34 YellowTop (750CCA's), which is the one that 99% of high end car audio people use and trust can be purchased hassle free at www.optimadirect.com.au