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Thread: VS System

  1. #1
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    Default VS System

    Hi guys. I have 6 inchers in the front doors and 7 x 10's in the rear and 50w x 4 deck, all Kenwood gear.
    Also over time from mates I have aquired a 10inch pioneer sub and a 4 channel mtx amp.

    What is the best way to set all/ some of this stuff up as I dont believe I'm getting all that I can from my speaker/ head unit setup.

    Also, tweeters, what exactly do they do and should I add a set in?

    Laymans terms please fella's, although I have the aptitude to set it all up with instructions, I don't know s**t about audio systems!

    Cheers, Chris

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    The short answer is
    Install the 4 channel amp, run all your speakers off it.

    OR

    Install sub and amp, run rear speakers off headunit and highpass filter (What model headunit do you have?) And then front channels for front speakers, rear channels bridged (what model amp?) for the sub

    Tweeters you can not just 'add in' to a system, you need to buy component speakers to start with.
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    OK, so head unit model is: KDC-MP4036U thats on the cover of the manual so i guess thats it and the amp: MTX roadthunder RT404...

    I dont fully get 'bridging', lol, i would guess that i put positive an negative wire from the sub together and 'bridge' the two amp terminals with another bit of wire??

    Sorry mate, could you explain to me what a highpass filter is and what i would do with it?

    And by component speakers for tweeters u mean what exactly?

    Sorry bro, im a layman when it comes to audio but i can hook it all up !

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    wat r u specs on all the speakers u have? that amp if ur running them @ 4Ohms is only rated at 37.5rms which really isnt worth putting in ur car IMO (unless u got it free and u just want somthing a tad better then the head unit.) which may explain y ur system seems under powered.

    If u bridge ur sub with that amp u'll b gettin only 150rms which again wat model is the sub?
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrx884 View Post
    wat r u specs on all the speakers u have? that amp if ur running them @ 4Ohms is only rated at 37.5rms which really isnt worth putting in ur car IMO (unless u got it free and u just want somthing a tad better then the head unit.) which may explain y ur system seems under powered.

    If u bridge ur sub with that amp u'll b gettin only 150rms which again wat model is the sub?
    With the speakers, still better than the 12wrms - 18wrms the headunit would be giving.
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    Oops i don't know what thread i thought i was in !!
    Last edited by HCVP; 30-06-2011 at 10:00 PM.

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    Personally I would run the two front door speakers from two of the amp channels and the rears form the head unit. I presume the sub is in a box? If so run the 3rd and 4th channels bridged from the amp to that. If the amp is bridgeable which most new ones are it is a case of taking the + from one channel and the – from the other channel that is bridgeable with it (usually works 1 & 2 or 3 & 4) and wiring them up to the relative + and – inputs of the speaker. Then switch the amps output settings to low pass or LP. Run the fronts as either full range or high pass HP.
    You will need to set the input sensitivity of the amp. Usually two small dials with a slot in them on the amp itself. To do it correctly you need to know the output voltage of your head unit but a work around is to turn them down and turn your head unit to around 2/3rds with all EQ ie bass, loudness etc flat or off. Then bring the amps inputs sensitivity levels up until it starts to distort and then back them off until its sound clean.
    Make sure you get all your polarity right i.e. all +’s to +’s and all –‘s to –‘s. Just sayin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crisis63 View Post
    Personally I would run the two front door speakers from two of the amp channels and the rears form the head unit. I presume the sub is in a box? If so run the 3rd and 4th channels bridged from the amp to that. If the amp is bridgeable which most new ones are it is a case of taking the + from one channel and the – from the other channel that is bridgeable with it (usually works 1 & 2 or 3 & 4) and wiring them up to the relative + and – inputs of the speaker. Then switch the amps output settings to low pass or LP. Run the fronts as either full range or high pass HP.
    You will need to set the input sensitivity of the amp. Usually two small dials with a slot in them on the amp itself. To do it correctly you need to know the output voltage of your head unit but a work around is to turn them down and turn your head unit to around 2/3rds with all EQ ie bass, loudness etc flat or off. Then bring the amps inputs sensitivity levels up until it starts to distort and then back them off until its sound clean.
    Make sure you get all your polarity right i.e. all +’s to +’s and all –‘s to –‘s. Just sayin.
    Cheers mate. Sub is in a box. Got a feeling the amp may be blown, power to the cable but when i hooked it up, nothing?!?

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    Quote Originally Posted by SWE11L View Post
    Cheers mate. Sub is in a box. Got a feeling the amp may be blown, power to the cable but when i hooked it up, nothing?!?
    check the fuse. Just sayin. :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crisis63 View Post
    check the fuse. Just sayin. :-)
    Or bad ground

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    cheers boys ill look into the earth, fusees are all good!
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