Pioneer Sub And Amp Question?

[Tw1n Tur6o]

Im just wondering if i could run a
Pioneer 309D4SB Sub (309D4SB 12" (30cm) Single Bass Reflex Box with 1400W Max. Power - Pioneer Speakers & Subs)
With a Pioneer GM-5400T Amp (GM-5400T - 2-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier with 760 Watts Max. Power | Pioneer Electronics USA)

Thanks in Advance.

[acarmody]

No. You need the Dual 2-ohm version.

It should be 309D2SB.

EDIT: Which apparently doesn't exist, bummer. You need something with either a Single 4-ohm impedance, or dual 2-ohm impedance.

[Tw1n Tur6o]

Ok cheers for that mate, was just checking before i buy anything.

[Tw1n Tur6o]

Sorry to double post but i seen on Pioneer 309D4Sb 12" Subwoofer In Box - RYDA Car Audio($246.85)
That its a 2-Ohm Dual Voice Coil Design? that will work yeah or no?
The pioneer website doesnt say if its dual voice coil? :/

[acarmody]

Ok cheers for that mate, was just checking before i buy anything.

Good idea.

Apparently you can purchase a single 4-ohm version, but no box. But if your handy with some tools we can help you design a box.

[acarmody]

Sorry to double post but i seen on Pioneer 309D4Sb 12" Subwoofer In Box - RYDA Car Audio($246.85)
That its a 2-Ohm Dual Voice Coil Design? that will work yeah or no?
The pioneer website doesnt say if its dual voice coil? :/

Nah thats still the dual 4-ohm versions. 309D4SB, the D4 in the name means dual 4-ohm. And see how in the specs it says "Impedance: 2 ohms" that is when it is wired up, it will come to 2-ohm.

2-Ohm Dual Voice Coil Design..............This should read as, "2-Ohm. Dual Voice Coil Design" two parts to that statement, bit of a crap way they worded it actually.

[Tw1n Tur6o]

Ah ok cheers for the info, will keep looking around. I'm looking for a sub in a box, never really built a box of my own so i wouldn't know where to start.

[acarmody]

Fair enough.

You could still get that sub, but you will need an amp that will provide a 2-ohm impedance. And judging by your budget, a mono-amp is really your only bet.

This will work fine, Ryda Car Audio - Fusion CA-AM10900 Mono Block Car Amplifier($242.85)

EDIT: Or this, http://www.ryda.com.au/Kenwood-KAC-8...p/kac8105d.htm
Or this, http://www.ryda.com.au/Sony-XM-GTR33...xmgtr3301d.htm

[StoneX]

Why not change the amp to suit the sub rather than change the sub to suit the amp and having to build a custom box?

Or do you already own the amp?

[Tw1n Tur6o]

Yeah, Im really just looking at the moment and that seemed like a cheap deal for the sub and box. What amp brand would u recommend out of those three?
Also would a dual voice coil sub be better than a single voice coil?

EDIT: I already own the Pioneer GM-5400T amp

[acarmody]

Single or dual voice coil, there is no difference except that the dual voice coil can be wired up in more ways.

Hmm as for the 3 amps, a few people have said the Fusion stuffs works good. I personally would stay away from the cheap Kenwood amp, just what I've heard from an installer, Sony, meh six of one.........

Probably the Fusion one myself.

[Tw1n Tur6o]

Oh ok, hmm im just throwing ideas out there. What box would be better a sealed or ported box for this Sub (Pioneer TS-W309S4 12" Car Subwoofer - RYDA Car Audio($158.85)) I looked it up on the pioneer website and its a single 4 ohm voice coil sub.
Also Ive been looking at these box's (12" Sealed Sub Enclosures)
EDIT These aswell (http://www.ryda.com.au/Ported-Subwoo...ures-s/212.htm)
Cheers

[acarmody]

Hmmm well I had one of these subs predecessors, the TS-W307D4, awesome sub for the cost BTW, and I had tried both sealed and ported. The sealed of course was nice and punchy, while the ported was a bit louder (mainly around the port frequency) and went into the lower frequencies better. But these are standard responses to ported and sealed. Ported = better lower rolling bass, while sealed = better punch bass, bastardization of the rule of course, but a general rule.

I compromised by going a bigger sealed enclosure, I think it was around the 2cu.ft mark. But I originally had it in one of those cheap $40 sealed boxes and it was still a great sub.

If I was going to go a pre-fab box than I would stick with the sealed boxes. IMO pre-fab (and cheap) ported boxes is a bit of fail.

Any of those Aeropro cheapies will work. But still are you sure you can't make your own boxes? Basically need a circular/band saw, a jigsaw, and a drill, to make a basic sealed box.

[Tw1n Tur6o]

So pretty much just go for a sealed box if I'm gonna buy one thats already made.
Also i guess i could give it ago at making a Sub box, what would be the best dimensions and thickness of MDF? and il get to it this weekend!

[acarmody]

Ok well just go the basic sealed box, but a bigger one than the Aeropro stuff. Pioneer recommend 1.75cu.ft as the biggest sealed so lets aim for that, http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/St...nual052011.pdf

OK well 16mm MDF should be plenty strong enough. Outside dimensions will be 380mm tall, by 430mm wide, by 400mm deep.

So top and bottom panels will be, 430mm x 400mm. The front and back panels will be 430mm x 348mm. And the sides will be 368mm x 348mm.

To put it together you lay the bottom panel down, than sit the front and back panels on that, slot the sides between them, than lay the roof on top.

Now the main strength for the box will be the PVA glue, so run a nice bead along all the joint, And to hold the box together while its drying put screws down every 20cm or so, just remember to predrill every screw hole or you will bust the MDF. Don't go overboard on the screws, because the glue is the real strength here, it will be stronger than the wood if done properly.

Just remember to have the front cut-out for the sub done before you put the box together, the hole diameter is 283mm. You can add the hole for the power cable later or now, just drill out the holes and push the cable through, remember to seal the hole with some sealant. Alternatively you can add a box terminal board for a professional look.

Once the box is assembled run some sealant along all edges.

Also you must remember to pre-drill all screw holes or you will likely damage the box.

Also remember to see if the box will fit in the boot before building. I've never measured a VN boot before.

[Tw1n Tur6o]

Seems kinda easy to do, thanks for all the info. Il get to it this weekend and post up how it went etc.
So what im gathering from all this, the bigger the box the more you will get out of your sub?

[sweefu]

Not really, the box has to be the correct size. You can lose output / sound quality with a massive box, just for the sake of making a massive box.

[Tw1n Tur6o]

I should have posted what i said a bit better, I meant that if the box is close to the biggest that the sub is built for the more you will get out of it?

[acarmody]

A bigger sealed box will theoretically allow the sub to play a bit louder and deeper, by allowing the cone to have more travel. But only to a certain degree.

[Tw1n Tur6o]

Had to edit my post majorly i got confused with model numbers.

EDIT: It also says my amp can run 14.4V (20Hz-20kHz/2Ω): 2 x 190W does that mean i could run 2x 200w rms subs that are 2 ohm?

[Crisis63]

Your speakers should come with some information as to specific box size and dimensions both ported and sealed. These are usually represented as inside measurement that do not take into account the thickness of the materiel you are using. Sealed is easier but also usually larger. The closer you get to these dimensions the better you will optimise the drivers attributes.

[Tw1n Tur6o]

In the end i bought a mono block which can run a 2 ohm load for now until my budget allows for another sub.
Also another question my head unit only has one RCA output, I have 2 amps but they only have inputs. Ive got 2 y splitters but since the setup is in a vn, it would be hard to fit the y splitters in the back of the headunit due to lack of space etc. If i plugged the single ends of the y splitters into my monoblock, then run the output from the H/U into one of the 2 ends and the other into my second amp. Would that work? or do Y Splitters only work a certain way?
Ive also added a picture to explain it a bit better lol..

[acarmody]

It should work. But normally you plug the single end into the RCAs coming from your headunit, run one output to each amp. You don't have to put the splitters near the headunit, you can do it in the boot too.