hey guys
i cannot find simple answers for my problem,think ive got "my head in the job" too much.
i have 2 alpine PDX's a 1000w mono and a 150 per channel 4 chan.i have a fused stinger fused distribution box and a stinger 15 farad capacitor.
How do i wire them?
- Bat -> Cap -> Dist box -> amps
or
- Bat -> Dist box -> cap -> mono
-> 4 chan amp
and i cannot for the life of me work out how much wire to buy.it is for a vx.if someone can share light on this it would be much appreciated
I also have no idea how to change the battery terminals either...
Last edited by red_spider; 10-08-2011 at 09:56 PM.
First Car: 01' VX S
Second Car: 02' VXii Exec 9C1
Throw the cap away it's not needed. Battery -->dist box -> amps. Check the linkWill be exactly what you need.
Ryda Car Audio - Aerpro MX0042 1000W Dual Amp Wiring Kit 4GA($52.50)
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
If you have the cap already, just use it as above.
Bad wiring kit is bad, not really smart to fuse the main power line with 120 amps when one monoblock and the 4ch would be rated to use that alone. Not really smart to use 8ga to the amps either, just screams trouble. If you're going to do a proper job of wiring, do it properly the first time. I would recommend at least 2 gauge wiring for the main line, 0/1 gauge will be even better and then 4 gauge wire distributed to the amps.
Amps aren't that super power full and a small run of 8 gauge isn't that bad. Model numbers of the amps would help and as said if you have already bought the cap then use it as confirmed by MAG00
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
You have to remember how inefficient amps are, if one pdx amp is fused with 4x20amp fuses (ie. 100amp fuse) then it's rough max current draw will be around 90amp. 4 gauge wiring should be used for a maximum of 150 amps or so, if you have a massive run from the battery to the boot then the need for a bigger cable is increased. The two PDX amps will draw 180amps at a max, so without including the 4ch amp we've already gone over the optimum current draw for 4 gauge wire. 8 gauge wire just screams bad, to be honest I don't think it should be in any system that has more than one amp.
If the mono block amplifier I'm looking at is the right one I would run 2 gauge to it and 4 gauge for the 4 channel. Have fun getting it through your fire wall though. Sorry MAG00 I don't sell Alpine so wasn't aware of the amps. Damn expensive would hope they go all right for that kind of money.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
but why go 8 gauge when you can go 0 gauge distributed to one 4g (mono amp) and one 8g (4 channel) and not worry about how long and how thick for it to be just enough and then you wont have to change it as much if you wanna go louder and bigger later on, unless you dont want to spend big? just my opinion
also do the big 3, will help alot with voltage drop, the more voltage you have the less current (Amps) it will draw (i think)
as for the battery terminals, i have a big 3 thread on how i changed mine
I got the amps and cap for the right price so yeah.
I was thinking of running 0 gauge to the cap;and cap to distribution box.4 gauge from the distribution box to the amps.due to how I'm getting my wiring I need to know how much I need in meters.I was thinking 6-7 meters of 0 gauge 3 meters of 4 gauge 6 meter RCA leads and 13 meters of speaker wire.tomorrow I'll post up the model numbers of the gear I have.I want to use 0 gauge to do the big three
First Car: 01' VX S
Second Car: 02' VXii Exec 9C1
Yeah sussed out the amps and noted that in my reply to MAG00 8 gauge for those amps wouldn't be suitable. 0 gauge is damn near welding wire I fail to see why you would want to run a cable that thick if you don't have crazy high powered amps. 2 gauge will be over kill as it is.
Welcome to the internet where people have opinions that you might not like
0 gauge is crazy big, but it's necessary to ensure that you never touch the wiring again. I laid a run of 4 gauge wiring, which I now have to pull out and replace. You have to remember that it's all about the current draw. Pure copper 0 gauge can handle ~350 amps, where as some of the CCA (copper clad aluminium) 0 gauge wiring is only rated to 250amps.
If your car is an automatic, locate your clutch grommet in the footwell (it's near the steering wheel column, behind some foam). Pull that out and drill a hole big enough for your 0 gauge to run through, ensure that it's a tight squeeze so that it is still water tight.
And yes, for a system this size I would recommend you do the big 3. Improves the current that gets back to the battery, by using bigger wires to reduce the resistance. Just have a google, or check out Nic's thread for a rough idea of how to do it. Make sure you get your cabling properly crimped (hex crimped is the best), for a secure, safe installation.