Wiring help install tomorrow

[red_spider]

Hey guys
Tomorrow I'm wiring up my system and I was told to wire it as follows

-Run 2 x 0 gauge (+,-) to boot from battery
-Into my 15 farad capacitor
-Then run both (+,-) from capacitor into fused distribution box with (+) being 0 gauge and (-) being 4 gauge
-then from distribution box run both (+,-) into each amp all in 4 gauge

Can someone please help me as I'm doing the install tomorrow.I have more the enough wire and have been told to ground of the battery

[sweefu]

What amplifiers are you running? Are you going to be competing in any competitions? Best list your gear, so my comments are accurate.

[red_spider]

Hertz 15" 380d sub (dual cone)
Hertz 6.5" 2-way component
Hertz 6.5" splits
Alpine pdx 1000 watt mono
Alpine pdx 150 watt 4 channel
Stinger 15 farad capacitor (the silver hpm one)
Stinger fused distribution box
Rockford fosgate RCA leads twisted pairs
0 gauge wire
4 gauge wire
Sony double din deck
Cat steering wheel thingy
300 amp fuse for battery
Optima yellow top d34 battery
140 amp alternator

That's the entire system some info I couldn't remember

[wraith]

0 gauge is supreme over kill. Wouldn't bother with a cap but considering you already bought it. Good luck running 2 X 0 gauge through your firewall. If I was you I would have 1 run of 0 gauge if you really have to go that big then run it into a distributor to the amps. 4 gauge should be ok for a small run. I can't see you needing a 300 amp fuse. Also your stock alternator should be fine. Just upgrade the big 3. You don't need to run the - off the battery. Just find an existing bolt hole and make sure it is bare metal.

[madnuts]

-Run 1 x 0 gauge (+) to boot from battery
-Find a nice bit of clean bare metal for the (-) 0 gauge
-Run into 15 farad capacitor
-Then run both (+,-) from capacitor into fused distribution box with (+) being 0 gauge and (-) being 0 gauge
-then from distribution box run both (+,-) into each amp all in 4 gauge

[sweefu]

Hertz 15" 380d sub (dual cone)
Hertz 6.5" 2-way component
Hertz 6.5" splits
Alpine pdx 1000 watt mono
Alpine pdx 150 watt 4 channel
Stinger 15 farad capacitor (the silver hpm one)
Stinger fused distribution box
Rockford fosgate RCA leads twisted pairs
0 gauge wire
4 gauge wire
Sony double din deck
Cat steering wheel thingy
300 amp fuse for battery
Optima yellow top d34 battery
140 amp alternator

That's the entire system some info I couldn't remember

There isn't a real need to run the 0awg negative, though its up to you, if you want to you can do it, its beneficial in some situations. Otherwise your original post is correct, keep the 4awg runs as short as you can, make sure all cables are terminated correctly.

0 gauge is supreme over kill. Wouldn't bother with a cap but considering you already bought it. Good luck running 2 X 0 gauge through your firewall. If I was you I would have 1 run of 0 gauge if you really have to go that big then run it into a distributor to the amps. 4 gauge should be ok for a small run. I can't see you needing a 300 amp fuse. Also your stock alternator should be fine. Just upgrade the big 3. You don't need to run the - off the battery. Just find an existing bolt hole and make sure it is bare metal.

Wraith,
You can fit 2x0awg cables through the firewall (clutch cable grommet) quite easily, if not there is a spare grommet the same size on the passenger side of the firewall.
The 300amp fuse is to protect the cable, not your amplifiers. It is common practice to put the front ANL fuse the maximum the cable can draw, the fuses on your amps / distribution blocks are the fuses protecting your amplifiers.

[madnuts]

Hold up what ???

[sweefu]

Hold up what ???

Which post are you referring to mate?

[madnuts]

the one you said hold up but you must of edited it

[sweefu]

Haha yeah sorry, I wrote a reply but did not see that the OP had listed his gear already, so I edited it, read this reply, then wrote a proper response. My mistake!

[red_spider]

So in other words wire it how I was going to? I know of the grommet on the passenger side any hint to wear the clutch one is? I went under the hood hunting but couldn't find it thanks everyone for the replies btw

[sweefu]

Negative run of 0awg isn't really needed, but if you do run it, won't hurt anything at all. Grommet is just below the brake booster mate.

[wraith]

I do have a basic idea as it is what I do day to day.... Just vehicle specifics allude me.

[red_spider]

Thanks guys today's the day and as soon as it's light I'll start

[itsagixa]

STOP!!!!! Make sure you put a fuse in the engine for the wire 0 Gauge wire that is running back to your boot,
I have seen a mate do it with running the cable from the battery to boot then to a fuse and when the cable rubbed through halfway through the car, the car caught fire and burnt down....
Get a decent sized glass/gold fuse and mount it somewhere in your engine bay...its like $10 but it may save your car if you have a fault.

[sweefu]

STOP!!!!! Make sure you put a fuse in the engine for the wire 0 Gauge wire that is running back to your boot,
I have seen a mate do it with running the cable from the battery to boot then to a fuse and when the cable rubbed through halfway through the car, the car caught fire and burnt down....
Get a decent sized glass/gold fuse and mount it somewhere in your engine bay...its like $10 but it may save your car if you have a fault.

A good tip, however the OP has already said he is putting a fuse for the main power run.

[madnuts]

main fuse should be within 45cm of the battery

[red_spider]

Everything is in and working except I have a whine in the left speakers though I think my left speaker wire is to close to the power cable

[itsagixa]

yes fuse within a foot of the battery, if you put a fuse in the boot and the cable wears through in the middle of the car you wont blow the fuse as the short is happening before the fuse.
When i was wiring steroes i always ran power on the left and audio on the right....you could put a filter magnet on the audio and see if that works

[sweefu]

Speaker wire should not pick up alternator whine. Do your RCA cables touch / go near your power cable?

[red_spider]

Nope...well not exactly.I wouldn't say there "close" there down the center of the car they go vaguely near each other at the firewall only coz of were the power comes onto the car through the clutch hole and the rca's are at the back of the head unit.but that would mean the right would do it too...

I remember I forgot to run a ground from the head unit to the chassis so it would be using the factory one out of the harness

I havnt done the big 3 yet

I'm thinning if unplugging the negative that runs from the battery to the amp and grounding the battery to the chassis (like the big 3) and then grounding the cap and amp to te chassis and see if that works

[red_spider]

after much playing with it ive worked out that its not the speaker wire or rca's (as such) its not the aerial.i think its because i didnt run a better ground to my headunitas the onein the harness is the factory one.when i unplugged the left rca at the headunit end the noise stopped but when the rca touched the headunit the noise got worse.im thinking if i ground the headunit to the firewall it hopefully wont do it