Post your car audio system and pictures

[vlv8vic]

glad i read the disclaimer RYMERS, was thinking of a thousand comments for $1500 worth cables in an EA!!! Cheers mate check out some quality cars in the pics sections. - J

[Tasmaniak]

My stereo consists of

Alpine CDA-7998r headunit
Focal utopia 165w3 splits
Hertz HSK 6.5inch coaxils
Focal utopia 10 inch subs (soon to purchase)
Audison LRx 2.500 2 channel amp x 2
Audison LRx 4.300 4 channel amp
Audison LRx 1.400 monoblock amp
2 x Optima yellow top batteris
Stinger dual battery isolator
Stinger 1.5 farad capacitor
About $1000 worth of sound deadening
About $1500 worth of stinger cables, connections etc

BTW this is all in an EA falcon :P (Didn't come here to cause trouble :P)

As much as I read and reread this...something just doesn't add up.
You have 8channels for speakers...yet only 4 speakers....wtf?!
$1500 worth of cabling....LMAO! They saw you coming a mile away!

[Rmyers]

As much as I read and reread this...something just doesn't add up.
You have 8channels for speakers...yet only 4 speakers....wtf?!
$1500 worth of cabling....LMAO! They saw you coming a mile away!

Well when your running your 3 way front splits fully active then it all adds up doesn't it

2 front woofers running off 2.500
2 mids and 2 tweets running of the 4.300
2 rear speakers running of the second 2.500

And as for the cabling and connections, try hooking up a dual battery setup with nothing but the top of the range stinger gear and you'll soon find that it starts to add up

[Tasmaniak]

Can you please define...woofers in front and 2 mids and tweeters...where are they mounted and why didn't you list them?

Hooked up plenty of top range gear, dual battery and triple! used BETTER then Stinger and still didn't come to $1500.

[Rmyers]

Can you please define...woofers in front and 2 mids and tweeters...where are they mounted and why didn't you list them?

Hooked up plenty of top range gear, dual battery and triple! used BETTER then Stinger and still didn't come to $1500.

I did!!

Focal utopia 165w3 splits, these are 3 way splits, consisting of 2 tweeters, 2 mids, and 2 woofers. They come with a 3way crossover but i ditched this in favour of running the set fully active off my amps. From your other posts you seem to know your stuff when it comes to car audio but i'm surprised that your getting confused over a simple 3 way active setup :P j/k

I have the tweets mounted at the base of the A pillar, the mids mounted in the stock speaker locations and the woofers in a set of pods were the map pockets used to be...

My apologies, i added the cost of the dual battery isolator to the cost of cabling, connections etc, so it's more like $1300. I don't see why it's so hard to believe?? Stinger 0 gauge cable costs a fair bit, and i needed about 8 metres for my entire system and about two metres of 4 gauge. Now calculate 4 dream series RCA's, 3 waffle fuses and boxes, 4 battery connections, 6 x 5 metre long 12 gauge speaker cable, 4 ring terminals for the isolator, 2 distribution blocks, 3 ground connections and a partridge in a pair tree :P

[Tasmaniak]

Now your starting to make sense....

Still...$1500 cable....bwahahaha

Why Stinger?

[Rmyers]

It's just what i started using when i was first building my system and then decided to keep it uniform when i was upgrading. More so just wank factor that i can claim to have complete stinger setup lol. I know that there's not realy much difference between the cheaper products and stinger...

[Tasmaniak]

Aint that the truth!

I still use welding cable when it can't be seen! lol...or in my wifes car. That has welding cable.

Little bit stiffer in some instances but generally has much lower resistance then any name gear.

[vlv8vic]

pffft your overlooking the most major problem. its in a damn fowlcan.
(said with a grin not trying to start the same old ford/holden crap that happens in here!!)

[Tasmaniak]

fowlcan? Oh wait....you mean a Chook Tin.

[RVN 355]

The 6550 Pioneer deck or higher would be best as they have 3 sets or RCA pre outs on the back and have alot of sub controls/low/high pass filters and so on! also ya dont need the run 6x9s in the rear shelf with an amp.. run them from your deck as rear fill only you dont want them overpowering your front splits and sub!

its all good i got my self a 222 sony 2ch now so all speakers and sub is amped.

[PaRaDoX]

Kenwood headunit 4x50w (replacing SOOON)
Pioneer 6" 300W 3 way rears
Coustic 160W (2x80W rms) powering rear speakers
Pioneer 400W rms free air sub
Responce 400W rms amp powering sub
STOCK front speakers *shutters*

what can i say.. its work in progress and I NEED BOOT ROOM!!!!
(yes i can PUT stuff in my boot and its still FKN LOUD =D)

[Leigh_G]

Got mine:
Alpine CDA 9831 Mp3 Head Unit - LOVE it
Focal 5.25" Splits in the front doors, (tweeters on the pillars) - LOVE em
(temporary) Kenwood 6x9's in the back shelf pods - soon to be 6" Focals
Alpine 250W vPower amp running a 12" Eclipse Sub.

a beut lil package.. but still not finished yet!

[Leigh_G]

Sorry to double-post (and yak on and on) here, but I thought I'd chuck up a few pics if anyones interested. For the last year or so, I've been helpin mates out with some more custom stereo installations as a bit of a hobby, and i thought I'd put my latest one up just for kicks . This was a stereo I installed in a mate's black VS S-pack. The boot was quite fun. Comments/criticism welcome!

Head Unit: JVC KD-AVX1 DVD/CD Receiver with 3-inch colour monitor (see photo)
Fronts: JBL 6" Splits
Rears: *currently* stock. Some coming this week
Subs: 2x Lightning Audio 12" 'Strike' series subs
Sub-Amp: DSL (?? on figures, but a big sucker nonetheless)
Speaker Amp: DSL coming this week (again ?? on figures)

The installation of the components was pretty straightforward. The H.U. looks 'fatter' than a normal sized unit, but its only the tilt-face that is wider - the unit itself is the same as any other, so it was no dramas.
Umm, the challenge came with the custom setup in the back. The boot was divided in half by a wall of MDF with two 12" holes cut out to accompany the subs that would poke through into the 'boot section'. I wrapped the wall in black vinyl (with some underlay to keep it feeling soft). The subs were then mounted into the wall, to help keep everything tight - and wonderfully heavy :b:
As you can see in the pictures, the front of the panel looks neat(with sub faces), but the back (with the sub baskets)needs to have the vinyl sealed down. That happens tomorrow with the help of some rubber rings. The faces of the subs can be seen from inside the car, by folding down the middle back-seat. The extra DLS amp for the speakers will also be mounted in that small area i like to call 'the hump' .
Looks sweet so far with some hidden strobes really setting the white-faced subs off!

OK, back to the process: the 'floor' was made from another MDF panel. This panel had a round-cornered rectangle cut into the middle*very slowly with just a jigsaw and my eye* .
This made a 'viewing window' down to where the DLS amp was to be mounted on the original floor, 5 inches lower.
This new floor panel was also upholstered in the same vinyl with underlay (see photos) not bad for a first time i rekon!
Next, the DLS amp was wired up in position under the 'viewing-window' (along with a few small neon lights for effect) and all wires were positioned and secured to allow for the bracing of the floor to be installed.
Next, the floor panel was dropped into place, and screwed into the bracing and 'sub-wall' to hold everything dead tight.

Thats where it stands right now.

Tomorrow, the perspex window will be taken to another mate's work, to get the HSV logo laser-etched into it. With any luck, it should look tops!
I've never done any work with perspex in stereo instals before, so im a bit nervous, but everythings been running smoothly so far - and even if we decide to add another perspex window to the hole where the middle seat folds down, it should still be complete by the end of this week!

I'll shut up now n just chuck my pics up for ppl to check out - if anybody would like to add ideas, or see the final result later this week, let me know, and I'll chuck up some more photos with the completed result!

Cheers!

[tony2nv]

Pioneer DEH-P8MP headunit,
2 Alpine SWR-1242D Type-R 12" Dual Voice Coil Subwoofers,
2 Alpine MRD-M605 Mono Power Amplifiers,
Alpine MRV-F345 4 Channel Power Amplifier,
Alpine SPR-17LS Type-R 6 1/2” Component 2-way Speaker for frontdoors,
Alpine SPR-17LP Type-R 6-1/2” Coaxial 2-way Speaker for the parcelshelf

[Blurry]

panasonic deck CQ-C8400W
pioneer 6" splits in front
kicker 6" splits in rear
budget boss 1000w amp for the splits
2 kicker cvr12's
2 kicker 400.1 amps

next month will be getting a new 4ch amp big enough to power fronts and rears
will be pissing off the crappy pioneer splits and getting something alot nicer.

any one else have pioneer TS-C1625 splits, i was very dissapointed with
em, they dont go to loud and the quality is shit. i paid less for the kickers
they piss on em.

any thoughs?

Marc

[kunifa]

87 VL SL

Head Unit: Alpine CDM-9821
Front Speakers: Alpine Type-S 6-1/2" Splits
Rear Speakers: Alpine Type-S 6-1/2" 2 Ways
Subs: 2 Alpine Type-S 12" Dual Coils
Amp: Alpine MRP-M350 mono block

[sik_vr_statesman]

leigh_g... where is the spare wheel in the boot?

[sik_vr_statesman]

also, how are you going to attach the perspex when you get it?

[Charg'd]

in my vr i hav:
pioneer mp3 headunit
kenwood 6inch 3 way 200w in front doors
kenwood 7 x 10 320w in parcel shelf
kenwood 320w amp in boot

[Leigh_G]

Hi VR,
The spare stockie *should* still fit in the side well - with a bit of a fiddle (he hasnt got one atm) and it still wouldnt detract from the overall look of the boot if the cover is on as well..
As for the perspex, it will be finally ready by monday next week, and we're going to use a rubber strip attatched along the bottom edge of the frame, which the perspex will sit on/be glued to. There will probably also be another stip which will run around the top edge of the perspex too, just for a clean line.
Clark rubber down the road has tonnes of different shaped rubber strips for holding window panes into place with, we'll find something that works well

[sik_vr_statesman]

hey, what is the "floor" sitting on? and how high off the normal floor is it sitting? also, how is the sub wall standing up? incase you didnt notice, i want to do this to my statesman as well in the near future, so as much detail as possible would be greatly appreciated

[96VScomm]

Head Unit - Alpine CDA-9833
Front speakers - Alpine type s SPS-171A 6.5" Component splits
Rear Speakers - Alpine type s SPS-171A 6.5" Component splits
Sub - 1x 12" Alpine Type S Dual 4ohm
Amp - Clarion 2channel 400watt (unsure of model number)

Will be getting MonoChannel amp for the sub soon and running the front splits off the clarion amp and leaving the rear splits off the deck.

At the moment i just got the sub mounted in a box in the middle of my boot and its annoying where it is i want to get it closer to the back seat and up on the raised bit. Anyone got any suggestions

[VZSV6]

So far...

Pioneer 5450 head unit
Infinty Reference series 270W 6 1/2" splits (90Wrms)
Infinity Reference Series 300W 6X9's (100Wrms)
Infinity Reference Series 1220W 12" subs (X2) (300Wrms each)
Cadence Z4000 amp (300WrmsX2)or(75WrmsX4)


Future mods...

Mp3 Headunit
Digital amp

how are the infinity range 6x9's and the 6" tweeters, and subs

[Leigh_G]

Yeh no worries VR, umm the main wall that divides the boot is held in place by about 6 L brackets (used mostly for shelving) and it was cut pretty close to the contours of the boot, to help keep the subs sounding tight by making the inner section 'air tight' in a sense.
In case the pics are a bit misleading, I ran another two pieces of MDF from the edges of the wall, to the back seats, to completely seal off the inner section (again held in place with metal L brackets)
The 'floor' sits about 5 inches higher than the standard floor - just picked a nice height depending on the thickness of the amp.
I supported the new floor by running several wooden supports along the original boot floor - obviously 5 inches high! this just makes sure the floor can hold some decent weight, rather than just adding some blocks at either end, which could cause the floor to sag in the middle.
By the way, if the stockie wont fit in the wheel-well when it's all finished, it really wouldnt be hard to make a few adjustments to the 'floor' and presto, all fixed but yeh, I'm pretty certain it will fit in ok - my mate didnt really care if he couldnt fit in a spare.. but i think it's illegal not to!

I'm going into town tomorrow to pick up the finished perspex piece with the engraved "HSV" logo, then it's off to clark rubber for some seals to keep it in place.. as well as some seals around the subs (which still have fluff hangin out around the edges of the holes)
and yeh its a week later than i thought but meh.. its getting there I'll post some pics of that beast too if your interested!
Let me know if u wanna see some, or if I've missed anything too mate.