VXII Clubby R8 Cheap amp+sub install Qs.

[DrZ]

Alright, firstly guys just so you know, I have not bought anything yet.. I am just purely needing to get my head around a few things after alot of reading here on the forums.. lol

Okay so as the name suggests, I am planning on doing a cheap sub&amp install to my original HU for my VXII Clubsport R8 '01... After alot of reading I am assuming that I will very much likely will be having to splice? a low level convert (is that the same as an LOC or wtf is an LOC?) up to the outputs of a left and a right of my speakers.. What is better to do, front or back speakers? I will eventually be doing a HU swap, but thats a long way away unfortunately.. So prob still best to install the low level convert near the HU to run the RCA cables back so I dont have to re- lay down the RCA and remote wires at a later date...

I am unsure on what speakers I am running, (dimensions wise) they are all still stock tho.. I think its (an correct me if im wrong)

6inch splits up front
6inch two ways in the rear doors
and possibly 6x9s or something, but def something also in the rear parcel shelf..
(sorry for uber lack of info im at work an also dont wanna pull everythin apart to see dimensions..

As for what amp and sub I will be going, likely something as follows:

1x 800w monoblock amp

1x 600w 12" sub

also, due to finances and time (length or free time haha) I was thinking of installing the low level convert, RCAs, remote wire, and possibly power (but just cover it up real good with tape so it doesn't short out my whole car lol..) first in one go, then get amp and sub at a later date an hook them up..

I hope i havent rambled faaar to much guys.. like i said tried to piece it all together first... and I only want to do a sub... having as many speakers as a currently do in the R8 is rather clear an loud, but just not as much bass as I would like..


also i listen to heavy metal/rock..

my missus however listens to rap/dance/crap lol So hence why i thought a single 12"sub wld be sufficient for both applications..

[DmanVT]

Hi there mate, I'm not exactly that great with car audio but if you ask me i don't think audioline are that great of a company for audio, I'm not saying don't get that, i'm just saying that wouldnt be the greatest choice, But if your budget only allows that then yes it will most probably make some bass haha.

I purchased the kicker pack from jb, and i was extremely happy with it. But the pack did cost me $1000 but included all wiring, 2 6" splits, 1 sub 1 amp all fitted.

For around $300 i'm not sure what you could get, possibly Kicker Amp, Sub & Box Combo - Subwoofer - JB Hi-Fi - Smashing Prices! but i'm not sure that will be that good at 100w rms.

What sort of money are you willing to spend on this project?

[DmanVT]

if price is an issue then this would possibly be better than the audioline ( correct me if i'm wrong ) Cadence 600 Watt Sub & Amp Combo - Subwoofer - JB Hi-Fi - Smashing Prices!

But if space is an issue then yes go something like that slimline audioline.

If your not wanting pumping bass and quality then any of those 3 would be fine, probably the kicker would be the better quality out of those 3 unless you increase price to next on the list, the 12" jl Jl Audio 12" 300 Watt RMS Sub In Box - Subwoofer - JB Hi-Fi - Smashing Prices!

But space could be an issue if you don't want to lose any of your boot! haha,

Sorry if i didnt help at all, just saw this and thought i might try and help. For that price range i can't really think of anything else better than those 3 things. Maybe someone else can help but i'm sure if all you wnt is a bit more bass than either of those will pump more than your stock speakers. Hope that helps mate!!

[DrZ]

Well space is and isn't an issue.. If that makes sense.. lol I could easily fit a few dead bodies in the rear of the sedan, however it is a daily, and the one and only car that both me and my missus drive around, so in the case i ever want to go shopping for food.. god forbid.. lol I tend to use a good portion of the boot is all... but those two options where more of a... what sort of money I was roughly thinkin of spending, plus if its possible to go up to 600w as wasnt sure on how good the output of just 375w wld be... I am sure that It would likely suit my application, and probably is exactly what I want..

So thank you very much for having a look and chuckin' some ideas out there mate...


Now all I gotta do is think about how I should hook up the amp/sub... ie. what i was talking about with the converter..

Cheers for the input...

Oh and budget wise, yeah likely round $400 for the amp and sub combined or less is better.. lol excl wiring kit...

[DrZ]

Also from the stock HU is the 12v Output the remote wire? not the constant but the 12V one....? Sorry, possibly stupid Q.. But hey, will feel more stupid if I hook it up wrong..

[AmmoJammo]

plus if its possible to go up to 600w as wasnt sure on how good the output of just 375w wld be...

the Audioline amp you linked to is 300watts.
the Kicker amp is only rated at 100watts (I'd probably avoid this package)
the Cadence, I'm guessing is the model rated at 250watts. (actually, its more likely to be the monoblock, rated at 200watts at 4ohm)

[DmanVT]

yer, just as ammojammo stated the one you linked is 300w, they are all close... well apart from the kicker ( only said it coz its better quality around that price if you didnt want lots of bass) , and i think the cadence is around 250. Don't bother looking at peak for any speaker, basically means nothing in terms of comparing, some people just double the root mean square to get a peak value and others actually work out the peak value, but rms is always a comparable and "true" value.

For what you are doing i'd say both packs would be fine,

I had the kicker 12" 150w rms sub in ported enclosure and my mirror was vibrating ( although i was running it fairly hard )

So for everyday listening with a bit more bass they will suit fine.

Even a good pair of 6x9's will get a bit more bass but a sub is the way to go.


And sorry what do you mean with the wiring question? just a little confused at what your meaning, ( not sure i'll be able to help but i'll try )

[DmanVT]

sorry i get you now, haha i just re' read it. Umm so vx stock HU?

[DmanVT]

if its a eurovox stock vx headunit, i think the remote turn on wire is the yellow red wire, possibly ( don't quote me to it! ) just plug on a 12v light and earth it and turn your head unit on :P haha, and do the eurovox headunits have an aux out? or is that what you mean by the LLC?

[DmanVT]

Im guessing your meaning High-Low Level Converter? haha sorry just never heard it that way but yer same thing, and yes that would be your best bet, and to answer your question about LOC it means Line Out Converter. ( same thing )

[DrZ]

the Audioline amp you linked to is 300watts.
the Kicker amp is only rated at 100watts (I'd probably avoid this package)
the Cadence, I'm guessing is the model rated at 250watts. (actually, its more likely to be the monoblock, rated at 200watts at 4ohm)

Hmm...... I have much to learn, I see how its 300watts now... Didn't before...
But okay, will stay away form thee packages... lol

[DrZ]

Im guessing your meaning High-Low Level Converter? haha sorry just never heard it that way but yer same thing, and yes that would be your best bet, and to answer your question about LOC it means Line Out Converter. ( same thing )

Cheers for all that man,

So... do you know if when using a LOC you can splice into a line? or will this reduce the power to the original speaker...? As I do not plan on re-wiring onto it to amp it, as I only want to fit up a sub.

[DmanVT]

haha, these packages will suit someone fine depending on the intended application. In your case your not after something that when you turn your stereo on, every car alarm in the car park goes off!! Thats why they make these packs. They add bass to a stock or upgraded system without a sub.

Just because the rms rating is higher, doesnt mean you will be getting larger SPL, ( calculations may prove that Power is proportional to SPL ) but box size, port size and Box type will always make a huge difference.

A ported enclosure will normally give a higher SPL value than a sealed enclosure, so possibly the cadence or kicker could be louder than the sealed audioline box.

Like i said before i had the kicker sub and box at 150w rms and it was louder than a mate who had the 250w cadence.

But for your application, any of these packs will supply you with more bass ( if i can even say MORE bass because compared to a sub a stock system will have NO BASS!! haha) hope this helps a little.

[DmanVT]

If you run your LOC in parallel with the line ( the only possible way you would i think ) then no power will be lost, infact a power gain if the LOC has any internal resistance due to the resistance drop in speakers, assuming the stock HU can cope with resistance drop but anyway thats getting off the topic as i don't think an LOC has much of an internal resistance.... correct me if i'm wrong :/

[AmmoJammo]

I wouldn't get the Audioline sub, its quite likely a shallow mount sub, and its in a small sealed box.

if you can afford the space, then a ported box will almost always be louder.

[DmanVT]

agreed, so you think the cadence or kicker? given the budget?

[AmmoJammo]

I'd go a second hand sub, or subs, and a ReSponse amp from Jaycar.

[DmanVT]

well yer second hand is also in the options... i forgot about that haha, and yer, hey ammo, i have a question for you, what do you think of hifonics amps? and also have you worked with alpine type r's before? or know of an option around the 600w rms mark thats better?

[DrZ]

Okay... Cool, well...

Thoughts on this....?

Cheap, I realize not very powerful as its rated to 120w (apparent max 360w but rated 120w), but likely effect to just add some bass to my music..

And yes, not going for ear bleeding fun.. Or even vibrating my nose so much I wanna sneeze.. Just enough to add some extra kick and feel to my death metal.. lol

[AmmoJammo]

Economy Active 12" Subwoofer - Jaycar Electronics

[Demoniak]

10" Subs are more responsive then 12"s. You will find with your metal that you will have to drop the power to sub so it doesnt flood the music (the low freq).

Amp wise Cadence / Kicker bring out some nice mid/low price ranged ones
Sub wise Cadence / JL bring out some nice mid/low ones.

One sub that will give you good bang for buck is this one:
JL Audio 10W3v3 Subwoofers - Car Audio Subwoofers the 12" is the same power output.. but the 10 is much more punchy.

[DrZ]

Economy Active 12" Subwoofer - Jaycar Electronics

Nice, definitely got the cheap factor I was looking for down pact... haha Love it.. And there is one just down the road.. even better

[DmanVT]

haha all set then, and yes if that does it for you then the other cadence ones etc would have NO problem haha but yer really any sub will add extra kick to your system ( as long as its in a proper box and not freeair) haha

[HCVP]

Any of the above mentioned subs may fall short of your expectations. They are all very low powered, and low output subwoofers. Granted if you had say a Barina or something, then it wouldn't be so much of an issue. But in a vehicle the size of a Commodore, it's a lot to ask of any of those subs.

By the time you add wind / road / engine intrusion noise, you'd have a hard time really hearing it.

If having a bit of sound coming from the rear of the vehicle isn't a concern for you, then possibly a decent set of 6x9's, 7x10's ect, might be a better option. If of decent and properly amped, they would provide a good mid bass increase, along with the rest of the range. A decent set of speakers up front and you might be happy with just a good 4 full range speaker setup.

Ditch the ones in the rear door too btw.

[DrZ]

Any of the above mentioned subs may fall short of your expectations. They are all very low powered, and low output subwoofers. Granted if you had say a Barina or something, then it wouldn't be so much of an issue. But in a vehicle the size of a Commodore, it's a lot to ask of any of those subs.

By the time you add wind / road / engine intrusion noise, you'd have a hard time really hearing it.

If having a bit of sound coming from the rear of the vehicle isn't a concern for you, then possibly a decent set of 6x9's, 7x10's ect, might be a better option. If of decent and properly amped, they would provide a good mid bass increase, along with the rest of the range. A decent set of speakers up front and you might be happy with just a good 4 full range speaker setup.

Ditch the ones in the rear door too btw.

Alright I will take that into consideration... Might be a good idea....

However I do have one question... Why ditch the ones in the rear door? Would 6 good speakers do better then 4?

Or would there be to much freq cancellation..?

Cheers