Audio Upgrades for my VX Calais.

[Callum14]

Hey hey.

I've been looking into upgrading my Calais sound system. Stock it's got "10 speakers", which from what i can tell is 1 speaker in each door, 1 tweeter in each door and 2 8" subs on the parcel shelf. Ultimately I want to change them ALL out with alpine speakers and subs, while adding 2 x 12" subs in the boot with this. 2 x Alpine 600w subs running off a 1000w amp should do the job nicely, and it's not too pricey. So money aside (all sorted). to install that, could I just disconnect the stock sub amp which powers the 8" subs and plug it straight into the new sub that will power the 2 x 12" subs? Is the crossover before it get's sent to the stock sub amp or? Because the sub amp has a crossover or 35-200hz I think, which in the end wont be a problem but im still learning this

thanks

[db_notso]

you would have to wire it to your new amp.... unplug and connect input to your new amp
(as old sub is one channel(one speaker)) connect it to your amp input with 2 wires or bridged position
so both your new subs get the same signal...

input signal at original plug will be fine and within range of required input of standard amplifier and aftermarket one... as they are designed to fit in MOST applications.... and have a large range on most of their specifications...

and yes replacing all your old worn speakers will increase peak noise , and with so many speakers the clarity should be excellent...

[Callum14]

hehe sweet as I'll do abit more research before buying. it's good to know that it's alot easier then first anticipated, especially with those sub boxes xD

[HCVP]

Gotta stop logging in

[sweefu]

Good lord.

[Callum14]

I want to get these
1 x MRX-M100 1000w amplifier
2 x SWR-1243D 600w Subwoofers

How would I do these? can someone do up a wiring diagram for me? as in do i run them paralel, go from one speaker to the next, or split the cable into 2 before going to each sub?

[StoneX]

You'd want 2 x SWR-1223 (2ohm + 2ohm) with that amp as they give 4 ohm and 2 ohm ratings and then just say 1 ohm stable but give a power rating of 500Wrms at 1 ohm. So it appears best to just use that amp on a 2 ohm load.

Wired like this:



Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams

[Callum14]

ohokay so go with the 2ohm subs? Okay that should be fine

[Callum14]

Out of curiosity why the 4 compared to the 2? Arent they the exact same speaker? or is there something different.

[MAG00]

Huh? Are you asking about independence (ohms)?

Out of curiosity, why Alpine over any other brand? For the exact same price, you can get a much better alternative.

[Callum14]

Just one I thought I could trust. they're advertised price is bogus, can get a set (2) for $350 delivered. Why what other brands did you have in mine?

also, this is the setup im going to do

[MAG00]

Just one I thought I could trust. they're advertised price is bogus, can get a set (2) for $350 delivered. Why what other brands did you have in mine?

also, this is the setup im going to do

Fair enough. Where have you got that price for the type-r subs from?

As for alternatives, it all depends on your budget, so what is your budget?

For the amp, Option Audio is highly regarded around here as great value gear. Their OAK1200 runs 1200W RMS into 1 ohm, for $339 from WOW.

To suit that amp you will need to purchase two dual voice coil 4 ohm woofers, aka D4, and wire them like so:



Once you give a budget for the set-up, we can offer alternatives. Don't forget you will need to include the price of wiring and installation accessories.

What you need:
Headunit (unless you have one?)
Front speakers (preferably splits/components)
Amplifier for front speakers (unless you want to run them off of the headunit)
Amplifier for subwoofer
Installation accessories (headunit surround, antenna adaptor, electrical tape, soldering iron, harness etc.)
Wiring kit (power wires for amps, fuse holder + fuse, RCAs for headunit to amp, remote wire for amplifier turn on, speaker wire etc.)
Sound deadener (sound deadener and proper installation improve the sound quality extensively) **Not needed, but highly recommended**

Rear speakers are unnecessary as they ruin your sound stage (if you're at a concert, you expect the sound to come from the stage infront of you, not from behind you.) and you don't need them unless you care about your rear passengers that much. You can use the stock speakers for the rears, and can upgrade them at a later stage.

Also, that diagram you posted is exactly the same as StoneX's.

Let us know your budget, so we can help you further.

[Callum14]

Budget: $2000
What you need:
Headunit: Using stock Eurovox 10Stacker but I have a JVC HU to put in.
Front speaker: At the moment stock but I will be putting in splits
Amplifier for front speakers: none
Amplifier : for alternatives


all have this has been stated in previous post's. I wont work on speakers till I get more money. I'm not looking for show car like sound, just some depth in my music, some nice low's, thats it. Till I can afford a nice set for my entire car, ie splits in all door's, so on.

As for that 1ohm amp, seem too bad, was having a look at that option before, but I was unsure about how hot the internals would get.

[Callum14]

So yeah, $1000-2000 is my budget, thats why i wanted to go with alpine type r's.

[Callum14]

Also, is it better to have more power in the amp or the sub? From what I've been told, it's better to have more power in the subs then the amp, so the subs arent over driven, but if you do it that way you can get clipping, from overdriving the amp. and if you have more amp then sub you can overdrive your subs.. is this true?

[HCVP]

and with so many speakers the clarity should be excellent...

You mean a rearward soundstage with tonal miss match right?

[sweefu]

Also, is it better to have more power in the amp or the sub? From what I've been told, it's better to have more power in the subs then the amp, so the subs arent over driven, but if you do it that way you can get clipping, from overdriving the amp. and if you have more amp then sub you can overdrive your subs.. is this true?

No this is very incorrect. You are beter to have a more powerful amplifier that is over-capable, so it has less work to do, so it is easier for the amplifier to power the subs.

[Crisis63]

Also, is it better to have more power in the amp or the sub? From what I've been told, it's better to have more power in the subs then the amp, so the subs arent over driven, but if you do it that way you can get clipping, from overdriving the amp. and if you have more amp then sub you can overdrive your subs.. is this true?

The subs don’t have any power. Their rating is power handling and it is measured and recorded in different ways. That aside it is preferable to run a higher powered amp into lower powered speakers than to try to drive high power speakers with a low powered amp. Running a lower powered amp into high powered speakers at high levels can cause clipping. That is sending DC current to the voice coil of the speaker which is very destructive. Most music only uses a small amount of the available power. It is only the musical peaks i.e. deep bas or loud synth or horn blasts that call for more power. And these peaks last for only parts of a second. Most good speakers will handle these peaks. That said any equalization i.e. bass boost, loudness etc will have an effect.

It comes down to common sense. Any audible distortion is hurting you speakers and probably you amp.

[db_notso]

You mean a rearward soundstage with tonal miss match right?

well honestly no i try to balance sound pressure to the center console on a sedan back seat for wagon and middle of dash for coupe...

by balancing speaker surface area and power output of the speakers i have found (personally)
the more speakers added EVENLY front and rear sound clearer at all volumes or settings...

when i didnt have passengers i just adjust front to back on the stereos and its just for me which stops rear stage as you guys call it

with subs unbalanced in the boot (none in front) i have found when its set up to the front (for me only) that you only need the basics 2 tweeters 2door speakers 1 sub and one amp(5 speakers) with good h-unit to get good clear sound for just the driver the only thing the system lacks like this is peak volume WITH clarity as it fades away as volume increased... but with passengers this set up just sounds like bass hence add rear speakers(7 speakers) then you you keep going adding high to back with more tweeters(9 speakers) until finally you go for a mid only hz set up with another amp to cut out highs and lows for those extra 2 speakers same size as door speakers(11 speakers) and another amp for the door speakers so as to match the volume control of all speakers so the center point of sound doesnt move as you go through the volume range ( like if one amp has a dif curve to another their volume differs greatly through same input level, even with adjusting gain on amps i have found)

anyways yeah i just like cruising to music... and thats ^^^ how i cruise

[MAG00]

anyways yeah i just like cruising to music... and thats ^^^ how i cruise

Personally I would prefer to use some tuning (time delay, equalizers etc.) and installation techniques (angles of axis, high quality baffle, sound deadening etc. etc.) to fine tune a system, rather than adding a ridiculous amount of speakers which technically wouldn't help anything. By adding more speakers you're probably just mounting them at different angles, filling the void that one well installed pair would achieve.

Just out of curiosity, what gear do you use? Decent speakers will go plenty loud enough without losing clarity.

No offence, but you don't seem to have much correct/relevant information for the OP, so please stop.

As for the OP, I will do up a recommended build for your budget within the next 24hours or so, unless someone like Sweefu beats me to it

[db_notso]

Personally I would prefer to use some tuning (time delay, equalizers etc.) and installation techniques (angles of axis, high quality baffle, sound deadening etc. etc.) to fine tune a system, rather than adding a ridiculous amount of speakers which technically wouldn't help anything. By adding more speakers you're probably just mounting them at different angles, filling the void that one well installed pair would achieve.

Just out of curiosity, what gear do you use? Decent speakers will go plenty loud enough without losing clarity.

No offence, but you don't seem to have much correct/relevant information for the OP, so please stop.

As for the OP, I will do up a recommended build for your budget within the next 24hours or so, unless someone like Sweefu beats me to it

i dont use equalising units (including settings in stereo) except amp settings for sub etc
until i have set up the system to my needs and budget,
like putting a exhaust in a v8 but keeping the standard cam!~ i like to go further but not as far as to have
some competion system, i am a mechanic i'm not rich so i worked out a way to get great sound at less price(took 5 car sound systems to work it out, now i have done 11 cars since that as cashies and still works everytime just changes with body shape (above was my sedan method))

in my vt atm i have mainly alpine and mtx components... i only have 10 speakers atm with 3 amps and a tired altenator with a sony hu (its an average one but the police didnt like my old clarion twin din dvd one a few weeks back )...

[HCVP]

I seriously don't understand anything you have just typed db nostro.

A car is a very small environment, if you can't get sound to to the rear of the vehicle's cabin some 2-3 metres away then your doing something wrong. Perhaps if you spent some more of your budget in the right area's, as aposed to buying "only 10 speakers" you wouldn't have these sorts of problems.

We all have to start somewhere and we never stop learning, but the way you go about giving advice , to someone unsure it would come across as perhaps you know what you are talking about. To those of us who do know what we are talking about, it frustrates us because the advice given is incorrect.

[db_notso]

righty oh then, this is just the way i worked it out for myself... tell me where i am wrong and i start small and add more speakers as i feel the system is lacking in a zone (mid lows highs)

above^^ this is what i am trying to say worded more carefully...

i am talking about projected angle from speakers AND volume curve
being set in a way that they project to the cabin with a center point of sound (where they meet at the speed of sound e.g. halfway between two speakers) without any adjustment of level controls... which gives a cleaner/clearer sound as you hear each speaker at the exact same time...( it works you can notice it ) and it allows stereo levelling to be more effective as your adjusting away from the center point of sound...

AND about using speaker levelling by splitting high mid and low hz between multiple speakers to give greater control of the sound levelling through the use of well thought out amp and speaker combo's rarther than just using an equaliser board, or stereo settings, which i believe are only there to fine tune the end result to where you want sound projected in the car and preset levelling like jazz rock etc...
my way is complicated but if done right its effective and on all preset functions like how a top end manufacturer system is made by development hence higher end versions of models will have angled speaker mounts in the parcel shelf and tweeters angled at occupants...??? i am not sure if i can say it in normal customer speak, i dont think i am using the right

i feel like i am at the pub with this~! lol

[HCVP]

Maybe you've been at the pub too long.

Soundwaves don't meet, they will hit a solid object and then bounce off, this is why we treat reflection points for absobrtion.

What you have written is wrong, plain and simple.

[db_notso]

im at home...?

sound waves travel and deflect yeah... so i am talking about setting a space with speakers evenly apart at the same volume around the outside of it and aiming them at the middle (of cars cabin)...??? even and clear... just saying "your wrong" is not going to show me where i am wrong in my theory..... constructive criticism is ok
i can accept someone telling me i am wrong if they say why...

soz for thread thiefing callum14