help with sound system...

[jack.mc]

Hello All, Just a few questions regarding audio...

I'm going to put a Pionerr head unit in, pair of Jaycar splits in the front , 6*9s in the back, and a 4*50w amp powering it all. I dont need major sound (as I have said before) just an entry level system...

Do I need the amp? or is the power from the HU enough?

I'm confused about wiring adapters - dont you usually run better speaker cable? are the adapters just for accessory, aerial, etc?

is there a website with a full wiring diagram for this system? including fuses, etc. (a big ask, i know)

I'll probably get the components in the after-christmas sales, so i'm not in any big rush. Also, if anyone knows any helpful online guides I can read, that would be good..

Thanks a lot!

[nuttered]

www.caraudioaustralia.com

all you will ever need

[Muttley]

Mate, I have just put in exactly that, except for the amp. It is plenty load and deep enough for me and I really can't see an amp improving it much. As for the wiring adapters, I still used one. You still need power, acc, dimmer, antenna from it and an adapter made it easier. I also hooked up to the original front speaker wires which connected to the new speakers in the door rather than running new wires through to the doors.

[dephilile]

Is the amp 4x50W rms or is that the peak values you quoted. If they are the peak values you quoted then don’t bother with the amp. Your head unit would put out the same power.

You probably don’t really need an amp. I’d be inclined to put the money towards a amp and a sub in future and just power your speakers off the head unit. you can always add an amp later if you want

Yeah, shopping at JB hifi after Christmas is good. my mate saved himself $200 to $300 (he ended up spending $500, pioneer head unit with remote, some kicker 6x9’s and some 6” 2way pioneers for the front).

[Tasmaniak]

Check out my wiring guide, it has all the wiring stuff you will need.

[jack.mc]

thanks for all the replies guys! I'm looking forward to a christmas holiday project...

[PhatVN]

how does a 4X50watt rms amp not help...
the latest alpine deck i got puts out 18rms per channel...
sure the amp wont put out constant 50 per channel but i can garentee it wil not only be better but also less distortion at louder volumes..

[jack.mc]

I went into JBHifi today and had a chat with the guy - he reccomended running fron splits off the HU and 6x9s off an amp - I think I'm going to go with that (not buying anything at JB though... lol.)

[PhatVN]

any xplanation as to why ure not amping the whole lot?????

[jack.mc]

I just got told i wouldn't need to... Its far from set in stone though! Do you think I should amp it all with a 4ch amp?

[dephilile]

You would actually be better off running your splits from the amp and your 6x9’s from the head unit just as filler for the back.

[jack.mc]

would the best bet be a 4 channel amp, doing all the speakers? I'm mainly after quality, but i want it to be loud as well...

a few other questions (sorry)

I dont really understand the wiring adapter - I want to use it for power, antenna and everything, but wont it sound better using better speaker wire? and dont you need to rewire it anyway if your using an amp (i may be completely wrong here...)

Also, When I'm adding a fuse for the amp power, where do i put it? Do I draw amp power direct from the battery, with a fuse in the line, or can I draw it from accesory, so the amp turns off when the car is off?

thanks in advance..

[dephilile]

A 4 channel amp is always better, it’s just depends on the sound your actually after.

I’m not sure about your question concerning the wiring adapter, speaker wire and normal wire are the same thing. If your using a 4x50W rms amp the existing wiring should be fine. I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong.

Run a new wire directly from your battery to power your amp and put a fuse as close to the battery as possible (1 to 2 feet from it) on the positive side (I know that might sound silly but some people run a new negative wire back to their battery instead of earthing to the car body and put the fuse on the negative side), you will have a remote wire on your head unit that you connect to the remote input on the amp. That is what turns the amp on with your accessories.

Another tip. Don’t just twist wires together, either use crimps or solder them together.

[jack.mc]

so with the wire from the battery, what do I do on the negative side? I must have to run that to the amp as well, right (or wrong?!?!)

Thanks..

Jack

[dephilile]

Most people connect the negative terminal of the amp directly to the car body and the current travels through the car body and back to the battery. Some people however to try and cut down on noise and reduce resistance (because a car body is made out of steel which isn’t the best material for conducting electricity) by running a wire from the negative power terminal of the amp all the way back to the negative terminal on the battery. If you decide to do this you don’t have to put a fuse on it or anything. I wouldn’t bother to do this, it’s more effort than it’s worth in my opinion. Just run a new positive wire from the battery to your amp and put a fuse on it close to the battery. Use a fuse that is equal to or less than the current rating of your wire, NEVER MORE.

[phree]

Just run the same size cable as you use for the positive, run it from the negative of the amp to the chassis i.e. ground, no need to run the negative wire all the way back to the battery.

Run an extra earth the same size from the battery negative to the chassis up front to be sure. Or replace the existing chassis ground with a bigger one.

The existing speaker wires can be used where applicable, there is nothing to be gained SQ wise in speaker cable at this level of system. The long wires from the amp to the front speakers will need to be new, so use whatever you like the look of, 16-18 awg is fine.

The adapter makes it easier to connect the HU to the car loom for a nice neat plug and play job.

Have fun.

[Muttley]

I went into JBHifi today and had a chat with the guy - he reccomended running fron splits off the HU and 6x9s off an amp - I think I'm going to go with that (not buying anything at JB though... lol.)

The only thing I find with my setup (Pioneer 6x9s plus Jaycar splits off Pioneer HU) is that I have to fade towards the front. The 6x9s are pretty loud straight off the HU so if you amp them and not the fronts, I guess they will be even louder at the back. I would probably do it the other way round.

[dephilile]

The only thing I find with my setup (Pioneer 6x9s plus Jaycar splits off Pioneer HU) is that I have to fade towards the front. The 6x9s are pretty loud straight off the HU so if you amp them and not the fronts, I guess they will be even louder at the back. I would probably do it the other way round.

that was probably because they had a lower power rating than your splits

but yeah, pointless running the speakers in the back from the amp and the speakers in the front from the head unit. you sit in the front, that's where you want the power to be.

[jack.mc]

thank you all so much for the help! I cant really afford to pay someone else to do this, and i would be worried about them doing a bodgy job (no offence to car audio installers, but door pods, parcel shelves, etc, i can see it getting annoying).

Is it true that you can use welders cable for the amp power supply? If so, what size should I use for a 4*50w RMS amp? If not, what guage power wire should I use? Also, what type of fuse/rating of fuse would i use?

This is the amp http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...Max=&SUBCATID=

Thanks for all your help! I might try to write a guide (very basic, just all the things i've asked in here pretty much) with pics of my install

Thanks again, Jack

[dephilile]

hmm, i have a 4x50w rms amp in my car i think i used either 6 or 7 mm wire for my amp and i think i have a 32 amp fuse on it. i'll get back to you on that if it's something different.

umm, yeah. i don't see why you can't use welders cable.

[jack.mc]

ok cool, thanks. I was working it out today, I think I'll end up spending a bit more than I thought!

I found a place to get cheap jaycar (www.newmillenium.net.au), and I'm getting my HU off ebay. That all adds up to ~$680 (ie DEH6750MP HU, jaycar amp, Jaycar 6.5i splits, and jaycar 6x9s)

Then theres cabling, MDF, and the rest! Oh well, at least christmas is coming... I'm hoping to get it partially funded as a gift from various people...

[bezz]

hey mate i reckon u should amp the splits up the front and maybe bridge the other 2 channels to a sub in the back.
need not be an expensive sub, but just think of all the fun you'll have building an enclosure and wiring that up too!

[jack.mc]

hey guys, would this wiring kit be suitable for the 4x50w RMS amp? Is an 80W fuse too high?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BRAND-NEW-XS-...QQcmdZViewItem

BTW, I am progressing, I got my speaker pods yesterday

[Tasmaniak]

that is ample for your 4x50. That will allow you to upgrade to run two amps without having to change out your power cable. You can replace that 80amper with a 40-60amper

[Tasmaniak]

I should explain... the fuse in the powerline isn't really their for protection if the amp draws to much power. The amp has its own fuses for that on the side of it. That fuse ispurely their for protection aginst a short circuit. So, in reality you could leave it at 80amps and be quite safe with it. If you were to match the Amps with what was on the Amp then that fuse will create a point of resistance.