sub and amp

[Ed]

G'day just wondering if this sub and amp will be good for each other if i decided to amp the speakers/upgrade them later on aswell, cheers.


Alpine Subwoofer
12" Type-E Series Subwoofer
Features:
- Power Handling:
Peak: 750 watts
RMS: 250 watts
- Impedance: Single 4 ohms
- Kevlar® treated pulp woofer cone with Santoprene rubber surround
- Dual oversized Nomex® spiders
- Concealed mount gasket system
- Shallow mounting depth
- Protective grille included
- 16-gauge Insulated stranded leads
- 8-gauge push-terminals
- Airflow optimized with extended vented pole
- Frequency response: 27-1000 Hz
- Sensitivity: 86 dB


Pioneer Amp, GM-6500F 4 Channel Amplifier

Power Specifications - Full Range Channels
RMS Power @ 4 ohms 60 watts x 4 channels
RMS Power @ 2 ohms 85 watts x 4 channels
RMS Power @ 1 ohm Not Stable
Bridged RMS Power 180 watts x 2 channels
Peak Power Output 380 watts x 2 channels

Amplifier Specifications
Amplifier Class AB
Number of Channels 4
Total Peak Power Output 760 watts
Total RMS Power Output 360 watts
Maximum Input Gauge Size 4 AWG
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 ohms
THD at Rated RMS Power 0.05%
Speaker Level Inputs Yes
Preamp Outputs No
Built-in Crossover Low-pass (LP)
High-pass (HP)
High-Pass Crossover Frequency Ch. A 80Hz, Ch. B 40-500Hz
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency Ch. A 80Hz, Ch. B 40-500Hz
Subsonic Filter N/A
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 98 dB
Channel Separation N/A
Bass Boost N/A
Bass/Gain Remote No
Fan Cooled No
Fuse Rating 25A x 2
CEA-2006 Compliant Yes

[HCVP]

Well i would always use a separate mono block to drive a subwoofer. The amplifier you have linked is only going to give 180 watts to the sub. At the end of the day 180 watts into a sub, is likely to be a bit underwhelming. You have a ute though, so factor in a bit of cabin gain.

Depending on pricing of those components would determine whether there are better alternatives out there.

[MAG00]

You could do a lot better. Give us a budget and we can suggest alternatives.

[Ed]

lets say $600ish would be good, thanks guys

[HCVP]

What are the plans for further upgrades?

I ask because subwoofers can be difficult to integrate. I hate listening to subwoofers that just aren't done right. IMO you really don't need a sub in a ute, unless your a complete bass head.

Where's the sub going go? Will it be ported, sealed, will it be an off the shelf enclosure, or something that's built to fit in a certain area? Factor in the extra cost's associated with having something built to suit.

My reasons for not using a sub in a ute - A sub is going to give you let's say 30-80hz, maybe higher depending on the quality of the remaining speakers used. In a ute you get a lot more cabin gained compared to other types of vehicles, sedans wagon ect.

$600 would get you a very good set of speakers, and an amplifier. A good set of speakers will comfortably play down to let's say 60hz. Factor in the cabin gain, and your not having turn them up anywhere near as much either. So not only will you get ample bottom end, but the rest of the music will sound great as well.

[Ed]

i want to have a little bit of bass, further upgrades would be the front splits, so amp and sub for now....amp the stock speakers and if they still suck buy new front speakers

[HCVP]

Where, and how do you want the sub mounted? Will you be doing part / all of the installation yourself, or does this $600 need to cover that also, and what about the enclosure? Will you buy one, build one, pay someone to build one? Do you have /need a wiring kit? What are you going to do for signal to the amp, will you use high level inputs, or do you want a line out convertor?

It's very easy to put forward a reccomendation for a $600 sub and amp, but that wouldn't be realistic if the total ends up being close to double once the task is finished. A bit more info is needed to provide further advice.

[Ed]

sub behind the seat, ill make the box, it will be installed by someone else (wiring etc), dno about Line out converter, high level inputs or amp signal.

Would be willing to spend up to 800

[HCVP]

If you want to put the sub behind the seat, then you'll want something that works well in a small sealed enclosure. The Boston G3 would suit well, Ryda Car Audio - Boston G3 12" Car Subwoofer - Dual Voice($288.85)

A well priced mono block amp to run it Fusion CA-AM10900 Car Amplifier - RYDA Car Audio($198.85) @2ohms it will give you a bit of head room also. Fusion's latest range of amps are pretty good for the money. I installed one if their 2 channel amps a couple of weeks back from someone and for the money it's a cracker.

Those 2 would come in under $500 leaving plenty from your budget to cover everything else.

[Kernal]

You want to get a mono block with its RMS rating just under that of your sub. If its too high you risk damaging your sub and if its too low your amp will be working too hard and you risk damaging your amp.

[HCVP]

You want to get a mono block with its RMS rating just under that of your sub. If its too high you risk damaging your sub and if its too low your amp will be working too hard and you risk damaging your amp.

Don't listen to this guy

Any extra power is just known as head room, and in actual fact you can never have too much power, you simply just don't use all of it.

Matching an amp that produces less power to a sub means the amp has to work harder, and you run far greater chance of sending a clipped signal to the sub, which is far worse that any audible distortion caused by cone break up.

[MAG00]

You want to get a mono block with its RMS rating just under that of your sub. If its too high you risk damaging your sub and if its too low your amp will be working too hard and you risk damaging your amp.

Yep because having headroom and adjusting the gains are unknown to man. Why not get a nice clipped signal, ruining your amp and sub! Derp derp.

[Ed]

Thanks HCVP, So if i were to upgrade speakers later on i would purchase an amp for those and run the sub separately off the mono block?

Cheers.

[HCVP]

A separate amp would be ideal. Once you divide it up between a cheap 2 channel for the front, and a cheap monoblock amp for the sub, it really doesn't cost that much more. You can get a good 2 ch amp these days for not much money.

The Fusion 2 ch i installed not long back was under $150, for a new amp the values good, so long as there isn't any long term reliability issues, which there shouldn't be.

[Ed]

yeah sweet, thanks heaps HCVP!