Kenwood 12inch 1200wat + 222wat amp = fail?

[Helmo645]

Hey,

Totally new to audio really however I picked up a sony xplod 222w 2/1channel amp last year for cheap price so had sitting around, now just got around to getting a sub and its as mentioned above.. only thing is if I rig the two together will it work or do I need a 1200 wat amp? Will it be decent if it does work or crap..? have sony xplod component speakers already in my car up front will the pioneer headunit know to send the bass beats to the amp/sub? How does this work...

What sort of wiring kit do I need to buy?

Thanks

One other thing if i have the amp hooked up to car battery as you do wouldnt that drain my car battery when the car is off?

My headunit will it have L R input cable holes? ..


would something like this wiring kit do the job? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Audio...item2a1571df11

Can I get for around that price in stores e.g repco?

[Nic92]

no the the 1200 watt is a peak power rating, you DO NOT LISEN TO THE PEAK POWER RATING CRAP, it is a made up number (sometimes it is double, tripple or qualitrol, i have even seen some cheap stuff with 10x the rms) from the manufacturer.

GO BY RMS RATING

peak power ratings mean nothing.

what model is that sub ?

and what independence? (Will be in ohms) also Single or Dual Voice Coil ?

and if you know the rms rating?, that would be great.

[Helmo645]

Lol aighto I get it dont listion to peak power rating

Bear with me while i find some info on it..

[Helmo645]

Cant really find any info on it but its this one.. Kenwood - 3011BOX 12 INCH BOXED SUBWOOFER | Car Sound, Subwoofers : JB HI-FI

Can find info on the 3012 which is cheaper on JBHiFi so im guessing around same specs? This is the 3012 which i dont have but must be similar? Kenwood 3012BOX 12" Sub with Box | Car Sound, Subwoofers : JB HI-FI

This mine..

Found this on Kenwood site a 3011 http://www.kenwood.eu/products/car/s...W3011/details/
however as you can see the actual sub looks different to mine so dubious as whether same?

anyway its specs are..
Speaker Features
Speaker Type Subwoofer
Peak Input Power 1200W
Rated Input Power 400W
Speaker Size 300mm
Speaker Cone Design Stainless Coated Cone
Magnet Type Ferrit
Terminals Silver-plated Push Type
Magnet Cover No
Gasket Installation two-sided
Installation Capabillity Sealed/ Ported

Speaker/woofer Specifications
Peak Input Power 1200W
Maximum Input Power 800W
Rated Input Power 400W
Woofer Cone material Injection P.P. Cone
Speaker Basket Steel
Speaker Surround High-Roll Rubber
Spider Type Super Linear Spider
Sensitivity 90dB/W/m
Frequency Response 25Hz ~ 800Hz
Subwoofer Impedance 4Ω x 1
Dimensions (W x H x D) 326 x 326 x 195mm
Mounting Depth 170mm
Mouting Hole Diameter Ø 279.3mm
Speaker Weight 6300gr
Gross Weight 7600gr
Weight of Magnet 1780gr

Subwoofer Parameters
Nominal impedance (Z) 4Ω
DC resistance (Re) 3.0Ω
Resonant frequency (FSO) 45Hz
Mechanical Q factor (QMS) 3.839
Electrical Q factor (QES) 1.519
Total Q factor (QTS) 1.088
Voice coil inductance (LBM) 1.26mH
Voice coil diameter (d) 65mm
Force factor (BL) 10.1T/m
Peak excursion Xmax 11.3mm
Moving mass (MMS) 171.9gr.
Volume accoustic compliance (VAS) 26.6liter
Piston Area (SD) 0.05m²
Displacement 6495cc
Sealed box volume 35.4liter
Sealed Box Dimensions 380 x 375 x 360mm ( 21mm thick MDF)(WxHxD)
Vented box volume 42.54liter
Vented Box Dimensions 380 x 440 x 360mm ( 21mm thick MDF)(WxHxD)
Vented box port diameter/length Ø 76mm / 178mm

dual voice coil from what i can gather too

[Astranomical]

I just did a quick Google search and couldn't find anything on your specific headunit. The best way to find out if your amp has pre-outs is to either look in the manual (if you have it), or pull it out and look at the back. If you don't have an amp at the moment you'll only need one set of pre-outs, and yes, the headunit will know to send the signal to the amp. There should be a switch on the amp that allows you to put the crossover for that channel in the correct mode, on my Pioneer the settings are LPF and HPF, for a sub it'll need to be set to LPF.

As for that wiring kit, I'd stay away from it purely because it doesn't state what gauge the wires are, this is especially important for the power cable, if the cable is too thin for the amount of power going through it it will heat up. When I did my amp (4 channels, 75W per channel) I ran a 4 gauge power cable just to be safe (and for futureproofing in the event I upgrade the amp - running wires is a bitch).

[Helmo645]

Thanks mate, yer I tried searching it and couldnt find anything on it either seems all my gear is not on the net lol! Will keep searching though as really don't want to pull the thing apart..So im hoping my headunit has 2 outputs right?

Here is my amp and everything about it, so it has an LFP button whihc has 80hz in brackets, so would this be turned to on instead of off? also on other side what is 'remote?



Find my manual to the Headunit and has no information about the back of the thing only thing I could find remotely close was the specifications of the thing..from internet searching possibly 1 set of rca out?

[Astranomical]

Hmm, just had a look at the specs of your sub...400W RMS - a 222W amp is going to struggle to power it. Either way, some general information - yeah that switch needs to be turned on. The remote terminal is for the remote control wire that will be on your head unit's wiring harness - this sends a signal to the amplifier that turns it on when you turn the head unit on. If you buy a complet wiring kit it will come with a remote cable long enough to go from the back of the head unit to the amp. According to the manual your head unit has one pre-out on the back (which will be two RCA connectors, exactly the same as whats on your amp), which is all you need so long as you're only looking to add the one sub.

[Helmo645]

Cheers Astranomical, well spose I may as well give it a go then at least I know it has no chance of blowing it lol! Hopefully it does work though otherwise gotta find a cheap good sub lol.

That other info is extremely helpful thanks loads wondered what all that stuff in the kits was :P well that helps immensely next to attempt hook it all together :P

[Astranomical]

I'd seriously think about getting a more powerful amp - even if it does work - you're going to get clipping/distortion, which will damage the sub. If that sub works, I wouldn't bother replacing it, just the amp. And as Nic92 said - go by the RMS (also referred to as rated or nominal) output, not peak.

[Helmo645]

Alright then I get ya, any suggestion for an amp then? I need a 400rms one by the sounds?

[Astranomical]

Kenwood KAC-8105D 1000W Class D Mono Car Amplifier | Car Sound, Car Amps : JB HI-FI - this one would probably do the trick

[Helmo645]

http://www.jbhifionline.com.au/car-s...-online-button


http://www.jbhifionline.com.au/car-s...-online-button

Are they perhaps more suited to the job? Or still too low?

[Helmo645]

Both 100$ but the max output rms i think still below 400?

[Nic92]

do you have a budget at all?

[HCVP]

Sony Xplod XMGTX6040 600W Car Amplifier | Car Sound, Car Amps : JB HI-FI


Pioner GM3500T 2 Channel 400W Bridgeable Car Audio Amplifier | Car Sound, Car Amps : JB HI-FI

Are they perhaps more suited to the job? Or still too low?

Why are you looking at multi channel amps for a sub? Also according to the specs i found for your amp it will produce 80 watts rms into 1 channel @4 ohm.

[Helmo645]

Well budget is simply cheap as strapped at the moment, was looking at them as have no idea about audio oops...

So 80 is way too low to even consider working satisfactorily on a 400rms sub?

[Astranomical]

Just to clarify, you don't want an amp that will output BELOW 400W RMS. It won't have the power to run the sub and you'll experience clipping. Above is fine. This doesn't involve a sub, but here is an example: The head unit in my car outputs 50 watts per channel. I put new speakers in which are rated at 60 watts RMS. Running off the head unit, if I turned the volume up too far, they would distort, which sounds like shit, and runs the risk of damaging the speakers (or sub, in your case). Now I have an amp that outputs 75 watts per channel. This is 15 watts higher than what the speakers are rated for. I can now crank it as high as I want and not worry about clipping, as the amp has more than enough power to run the speakers.

Also, if you're just running a sub, you'd probably be best suited towards a monoblock/1 channel amp.

[Helmo645]

Well that makes clear sense now then good example too.. Now to find a cheap mono block that outputs that much don't know how successful I'll be, fingers crossed some suggestions

[HCVP]

btw just pull your head unit out and look at the pre outs. It's going to have to come out anyway.

[Helmo645]

Definately got it, managed to get in contact with somebody who told me.

Looks like looking over 200$ at least for a amp capable of 400+rms at 4ohms

[Phantom6 SportWagon]

Sony Xplod XMGTX6040 600W Car Amplifier | Car Sound, Car Amps : JB HI-FI

that amp will work fine, will pump that sub nicely, in my vr i had that amp and a 1200w 12 inch sony xplod hexagon sub, pumped hard, (but i did have a awesome head unit) thats not really going to affect ur amp and sub,

[Helmo645]

Wow really and no distortion or anything?
And its fine its a 4/3 channel thing can still rig it up to the one sub?

All these different outputs and shit are confusing me like #### lol

found that sony would be 300rms output at 4ohms on 1 channel so only 100 below..

see this
NEW BLITZ AUDIO Class D Monoblock 1500W Mosfet Power Car Amplifier | eBay

says # Power Output 4 Ohm: 350Wx1 RMS
# Power Output 2 Ohm: 700Wx1 RMS

so still under 400 cus sub only runs at 4ohm not 2?

[Phantom6 SportWagon]

i bought that amp 5yrs ago cost me $500+!!!

[Helmo645]

Lol shit how prices change ay! So its fine riggin up to one sub even though its 4/3?

[Phantom6 SportWagon]

i never experienced any distortion, as i never was able to turn it up loud enough due to excessive bass lol, honestly there are awesome systems out there but u obviously just want nice bass out of your sub this amp will get this for you with out gettin to professional with your system.