Hi,
I've just finished my system (hopefully) and I've been testing/tuning it for full volume. While I was doing this I noticed when the subs had to play some massive bass my radiator fan would spin slower and when the bass stopped it would go back to normal speed (you can hear it spinning down). The light in the boot dims a bit and the headlights dim very slightly (just noticeable). This is when my car is idling btw.
The alternator (I think) also makes a funny whining noise when I get massive bass.
My system is 1000rms total:
subs: Soundstream DVC 2ohm 300rms x 2 in a kicker comp box (I think they are STT-12/2 or something)
amp: Pioneer monoblock 600rms @ 2ohms
Fusion 4 channel 110rms x 4 @ 4ohms
I've got 4 gauge wire going to my distribution block from battery with a 60amp fuse > 8 gauge coming off the distro block to the danger band aid (1.2 farad) > then 8 gauge going from the cap to the monoblock (600rms @ 2 ohm). Probably less then a meter of 8 gauge in my boot total.
I tuned my system for dubstep type music so I have set the low pass filter on the monoblock somewhere between 55 - 65hz. When my system is fully cranked, during the really heavy hits The capacitor readout doesn't drop below 13.00V (and has a cool blue light which adds an additional 50 decibels the subs output).
This system goes really hard and sounds amazing but I don't think my cars electrical system appreciates being starved. None of the amps have ever cut out but the pioneer mono can get really hot.
The alternator is stock and I purchased my battery about one and a half months ago.
Car is a VY V6 Wagon SII Exec
How should I go about fixing my rad fan problem?
Thank you.
What does your battery drop to?
In the diagnostics mode (hold mode + set then start) I havent seen it go below 13.4 but that when I'm driving not idling.
You can't really stop dimming at idle as your alternator isn't in it's optimum rev range for producing maximum power. If it does it when driving, then you should look at fixing whatever is causing it.
You should also do what one_and_only2004 said and measure the battery voltage while this is happening. I'd also measure at the amplifier terminals as class D amps really don't like voltage drop. I killed a nice big 2400Wrms amp pumping it at idle after it working for years at that volume while driving.
[edit]
Too slow!
Use a multimeter to measure the voltages, don't trust the car computer or the capacitor.
When I get home ill measure it at idle and post the results. I haven't noticed the lights dimming whilst driving unlike my old vs, the headlights would practically turn off when I had a bass hit lol and that was just with the fusion amp bridged with a 150rms sub lol.
That sucks about your amp Stonex, What subs were you running and could you even breath in the car? or did you have to wind down your windows![]()
Sounds like you are experiencing some voltage drop. Perform a Big 3 upgrade of your stock wiring (replace stock Alternator - positive battery, Chassis - negative battery, Engine block - negative battery with larger wires, ideally 4 gauge or thicker).
If the big 3 doesn't work you may need a bigger battery/a second battery. Failing that a larger alternator should do the trick.