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Thread: need some help

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    Default need some help

    hey iv decided to set up a system in my car.. iv picked either the pioneer ts-w3002d2 (dual 2ohm) or the ts-w3002d4 (dual 4 ohm) both 3500w peak, 1000wrms.. what im clueless about is the difference between the 2? iv done some research on google on which one would be the better choice but im still having a hard time understanding.. would getting two of the ts-w3002d4 and wiring them up at 1ohm to a SOUNDSTREAM TARANTULA TX1.2000D ( Soundstream TX1-2000D review - Tarantula Car Amplifiers ) be the best way to go or is there a better way with the ts-w3002d2?

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    The only difference is the voice coils. One has dual 4 ohm and the other has dual 2 ohm which just means they can be wired to suit different amplifiers.

    Two TS-W3002D4 with the voice coils and both subs wired in parallel will give you 1 ohm which will suit that amplifier perfectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneX View Post
    The only difference is the voice coils. One has dual 4 ohm and the other has dual 2 ohm which just means they can be wired to suit different amplifiers.

    Two TS-W3002D4 with the voice coils and both subs wired in parallel will give you 1 ohm which will suit that amplifier perfectly.
    So if i wire 2 d4s up at 1ohm it would give me the best possible power from these subs? Is it safe to wire them up at 1ohm?

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    Subs don't make power, they receive power from amplifiers and make sound. But yes, the subs are rated at 1000Wrms and the amp will be giving each sub 1000Wrms.

    Yes, it is safe to wire the subs to be 1 ohm, that's what dual voice coils were designed for. The amplifier is rated to run a 1 ohm load so all is fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneX View Post
    Subs don't make power, they receive power from amplifiers and make sound. But yes, the subs are rated at 1000Wrms and the amp will be giving each sub 1000Wrms.

    Yes, it is safe to wire the subs to be 1 ohm, that's what dual voice coils were designed for. The amplifier is rated to run a 1 ohm load so all is fine.
    Awsome! Thanks for your help! Theres an amp like that one on ebay for $430.. is that a good price? I cant find the rrp on google

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    Quote Originally Posted by StoneX View Post
    Cool il buy that one then.. one last question.. Is there anything im gonna need to change on my car to use theses subs and amp? And if so how much roughly would it cost?

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    Quote Originally Posted by vr5lbt1 View Post
    Cool il buy that one then.. one last question.. Is there anything im gonna need to change on my car to use theses subs and amp? And if so how much roughly would it cost?
    if you havnt done the big three, id highly recommend it

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    its basicly upgrading your wires from the alternator to the battery & grounding wires and adding a wire from battery (-) to engine block, so that more current can be drawn from the alternator

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nic92 View Post
    its basicly upgrading your wires from the alternator to the battery & grounding wires and adding a wire from battery (-) to engine block, so that more current can be drawn from the alternator
    I cant watch the video im at work atm.. but is it like a easy d.i.y job or is it better to get a auto electician or something to do it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by vr5lbt1 View Post
    I cant watch the video im at work atm.. but is it like a easy d.i.y job or is it better to get a auto electician or something to do it?

    umm, what car do you have? because it was very easy to do in my VY v6 because the alternator was in a very easy position to get to and that,

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    A vr 5 litre bt1..?I think bt1s came out with different alternators not to sure

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    Quote Originally Posted by vr5lbt1 View Post
    A vr 5 litre bt1..?I think bt1s came out with different alternators not to sure
    yeah umm idk, the main thing is locating the alternator and then replace the cable with a thicker one and then put a new ground and ground somewhere on the engine block

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    Quote Originally Posted by vr5lbt1 View Post
    Uhh yeah sounds easy enough? lol il have a look when i get home

    yeahh it is pretty easy :P

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    Iv checked around at a few auto electricians and audio shops and they all pretty much tell me that gettin my car ready to handle all that power will cost more than the system itselfso im gonna go for the cheaper option and get weaker subs so i wont have to change all the electrics under the hood. iv decided to go with 2 pioneer ts-w309d4's (dvc 4ohm 1400w peak, 400w rms).. I was just wondering of anybody could suggest a good amp to get the most power out of these subs?

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    That info is bad, you can run more power your electrical system is fine, worst case you will have to spend $30 on cables and lugs from jaycar.
    My VY Berlina Build Thread - Mainly Stereo
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    Quote Originally Posted by xVisions View Post
    driving without a license at the moment, My vl has beaten every single car I've street raced!!

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    I was told that running 2000w rms would mean id need a more powerful alternator,bigger or possibly even an extra battery ?

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    They're wrong, it's not required. Auto electricians know #### all about car stereos, I'm constantly repairing head units that they blow up because they're living in the past and think they know better than the wiring instructions.

    Your 2000Wrms amplifier when playing music will only ever draw 2000Wrms for milliseconds at a time if you're running at full volume. What happens in this case since the alternator can't supply that power, the voltage drops until it hits the level of the battery and then the battery supplies the power. This will be the headlight dimming that you will get, it is annoying but it's not a major problem and definitely doesn't mean you need a larger alternator.

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