Distribution block, connections and fusing

[Brycestro]

Ok, have a stereo system planned. 2 x front speakers each 70wrms, 2 x rear speakers each 100wrms, 2 x subs each 650wrms (yes, all these ratings are wrms, NOT max, so please don't ask about that). Ok, so that gives 1640wrms total. Now here's the thing, i'm running cable to a distribution block, and then from there out to the amps seperately (one amp powering the front and rears and one amp powering the subs). Now forget the amp powering the front and rears... The amp powering the subs has a rating of 1250wrms, all of which power will be utilised. Now, as is on www.the12volt.com, the current draw by power table states that 1200 wrms draws 172 amps, and that 1400wrms draws 188 amps. so lets say it draws 176 amps for 1250wrms, now remember that this is coming from a distribution block. The best distribution block i can find is at the following link:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-SOUNDSTRE...QQcmdZViewItem
Now you'll notice this has a maximum fuse rating of 100 amps x 4. Being as the power wire running to the amp powering the subs is going to be drawing around 176 amps, you can see this fuse rating isn't sufficient enough. So what to do? I've had a suggestion that i wire it in parallel so that i use two ports of the distribution block and join wire together in a sort of Y formation to run then from the two ports of the distribution block to the amp which will be drawing the 1250wrms (176 amps). I see that this way i could up the total fuse rating to 200 amps which would suffice, i just can't see how i would connect the wires running from the two ports into one wire. I've had suggested that i use a big crimp connector, but don't even know where i'd track one down that massive. Any suggestions on what to do here are welcome.

[StoneX]

If the amp has fuses in it then there is no point using a fused distribution block.

But if you've got your heart set on using one for some strange reason, then you can get Stinger T-distibution blocks (3 holes with no fuse), run the two wires from the fused block into the T-block and run one wire to the amp.

[Brycestro]

oh ok, so it's fine to use a distribution block in reverse order? where instead of having one fat cable going out to many items i'll have two cables running into what would normally be considered it's "outputs" and then a single cable running out of what would normally be considered it's "input" to the amplifier?

[Brycestro]

ok, still chasing confirmation on my last question there, but also, i notice that the distribution block i'm looking at has a stat there for "max turn on relay current". I hadn't thought about it but do you need to relay anything in order to get the distribution block showing the voltage on it's LED screen or being as the wires coming from it are hooked up to the amplifiers, does the remote wire from the headunit to amps turn the amps on which in turn draw current through the wire which is passing through the distribution block anyway? In summary, on a distribution block like the one i linked to in an earlier post, do you simply need to have the input power cable coming from the battery and the output power cables going to the devices or is there another relay involved specifically with the distribution block to control when it's turned on and off?

[StoneX]

Look up Stinger and have a look at T-dist blocks. It doesn't have in's and out's, it's just 3 holes so it doesn't matter if you have one big in and 2 small out or vice versa.

A dist block like the one you are looking at probably needs the remote wire connected to it to turn the display on.

Don't your amps have fuses in them?

[Brycestro]

Wasn't able to find any of the Stinger T Blocks on ebay, however i found something that might do the job. Tell me if this one looks like it would work:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

In theory it should, being as it isn't actually displaying anything like voltage or anything like that and it should simply be a metal connection between wires but then again, my "in theory" doesn't always work.

[jds303]

that will work fine

[StoneX]

Maybe you could go down to a store rather than only looking on eBay.

[Tasmaniak]

go to a store....trust me. They are more helpful then the dealer in Hong Kong..plus, you can return it

[Brycestro]

I live in Mackay, our stores are povo and don't sell most of the stuff i'm after. That and i've now discussed it with the seller over messenger now, and he wasn't even located at a shoddy international call centre :P.

Cheers.

[garfa]

why do you want to run multiple wires? whats wrong with one large, 2 guage cable? surely it would be easiest and cheapest to run the large cable to a 2 way distro block like the one jaycar has.
also you are working in absolutes, you will not be drawing 170 odd amps all the time, only rarely.
if that doesnt work get some plexi glass and mount 2 chunks of copper and make your own distro block?

[1991_Vn2nV]

Im interested to know what brand speakers/subs and amp you are going to use?

[Brycestro]

Planned equipment was Pioneer TS-C160R front splits, Fusion FPS-653 rears, 2 x Fusion FJL-1211 subwoofers. Both front and rears running from Fusion FP-1404 amplifier and subwoofers running from Fusion FJL-1211D amplifier. Problem: the bugga selling the 2 subwoofers and FJL-1211D amp has now sold them already.
Solution: The person who bought them hasn't paid yet - and hopefully won't. i.e. - i can buy the equipment.
Alternate solution: Cap the person who bought it already :P.
Possibility: buy two soundstream 15" T4-15 subs second hand dirt cheap off someone who hasn't used them because bought them and found they wouldn't fit in his car.
New Problem: Finding an amplifier to produce 2000wrms that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Cheers

[StoneX]

There are some being sold on CAA forums.