Problem With Amp ????????????
guys having a bit of a problem.
my amp wont work and therefore power the SUB. the problem seems to be that it wasnt working so i disconnected the whole thing then re-wired it.
First- plugged the 12V into the amp then the amp lights up, with the protecrtion light on (red)
Second- i plug the remotre wire in
third- i plug the ground in and groud in onthe car chassis
4th- i plug the RCA's in
5th- the sub in attached to the speakers input
the problem lies that nothing happens..the sub doesnt activate. i played around with a few wires just jiggiling them at the point of contact witht he sub and the protection light stays on and next to it the power light (green) flicks on and off like there is a loose connection. im not sure what to do??? as far as i know ive done everything right....put cannot get the power and and protection light to stay on..assuming that thats desired.
im dealing with a KICKER amp and PIONEER sub. THANKS GUYS IN HELPING MEOUT HERE!!!
Physics Geek
For starters you've got the wire up procedure all arse about. The VERY first wire that should ever go into an amp is the earth. Then the RCA's, then the speakers, then the power then the remote.
I don't know if disconnecting then reconnecting will help you, there's a chance you've killed the amp. But there's also a chance that it's just doing something strange.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
Yes you should always connect the ground wire first.
Was it working at some stage?
Have you disconnected the battery at some stage? If so make sure the HU settings are still correct.
alright ill try the process u said...is it possible the amp is gone??? yeah it was working at one stage and then not but i used to be able to fiddle with it and it would fire up again.. also tyhe battery was disconnected about a week ago and replaced??
You said you plugged in the power and the light came on, so you gave power to the amp without earthing it. That could of stuffed the amp.
The protection light stays on, so it could mean anything from a shortcircuit between some wires extrenally or blown internals.
You say it was working, then it stopped. Explain exactly what happended between the amp working and not working. Or was it just a case of one day you switched the car on and it wasnt working?
mate you said you plugged the speakers into the speaker input??? Shouldnt this be the speaker output?? some amps have speaker input and output. If this is the case make sure you have the sub connected to the OUTPUT. If not ide say she is dead.
alright i just followed the process told by MOUCE and all was well....EXCEPT the protecrtion light and power light only came on when i touched the REMOTE and POWER wire together while the ROMOTE was plugged in. if i pluged everything noting happened but when i accidently touched them together whilst plugged in everything came on and SUB worked. thats all fine...except that the POWER light on the amp stayed on when i switched the car off...im worried that this will drain my battery.
also in regards to a prevous question it stopped working by cutting out sometimes and then stopped completely...i would nudge it and it would work for a bit more. untill now!
Originally Posted by mouce
WTF. Man doesnt matter how you wire up an amp just aslong as the battery cable to the amp isnt connected at the battery its all good.
buy the sounds of it u might have a dicky terminal or wire re check everything failing that take the amp to a dealer n have it looked at they would no if its gone or not.
all good boys...the prob was the fuse at the headunit had blown
Not a valid input....
I'm still trying to figure out how the protection light came on without a ground being attached....
You put you left foot in, your put your right foot in , you take your left foot out and you slide it all about!
wizfiz
the trigger whire produces a slight ground youll fine it just lights up a litle bit
same as if the main fuse to amp blows youll also still get a very small power on tirminal at amp saying its live onn 12 thats from trigger wire too
Not a valid input....
the trigger wire wasn't applied.
You put you left foot in, your put your right foot in , you take your left foot out and you slide it all about!
wizfiz
was amp screwed down to metal?
Not a valid input....
well it has to have been doesn't it?
no, not really when you think about it....
You put you left foot in, your put your right foot in , you take your left foot out and you slide it all about!
wizfiz
hahaa make up ya mind
silly bugga
well there has to be an eath feed somewhere if only power is conected only and light comes on
or..... something else was plugged in
then install the fuse in the main power wire from battery to amp???
then re-connect negative to battery???
just wanted to make sure....
im asuming the small spark isnt the HU / amps installed (its all switched off), its just the immobiliser getting power???
cheers
Physics Geek
The negative shouldn't be run to the battery, should be run to just a metal part of the car.
Connect the earth (negative) FIRST, then connect everything else, then connect the power (positive) LAST.
Also, some amps/head units can have issues if the h/u has power to it when you plug RCA's into the amp. So it might be worth popping the fuse to the h/u out before you connect the amp.
BTW: since it sounds like you've been disconnecting the battery, don't forget to reset your ECU.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
sorry, worng terminology... and no, i havent got it connected to the battery (negative) its grounded... i just meant the negative lead on the battery...
hmm, how come my installation intrucions specify removal of negative wire on the battery when installing then??? i thought itd be fine, as in, discnnect the positive, tht way its grounded to begin with....
Physics Geek
Most installation instructions get you to disconnect the battery just to make it a little harder to spark something. When you're connecting the positive to the amp it's easy enough to drop it and you'd have a live wire that could touch any metal and short out.
That's not a really good thing for batteries. However if you just leave the fuse out of the positive lead, it should all be safe as houses anyway.
Gravity is proof that nature keeps getting us down.
Not a valid input....
no, if you delve DEEP into the eletrical theory it is quite possible for it to recieve an earth down it's powerline. albiet, not enough to power up but the LED only requires a bees dick of current.
Furtther more, I have seen it several timems in VLs and especially VLs running cheap amps.
You put you left foot in, your put your right foot in , you take your left foot out and you slide it all about!
aw ok... well, thanks again for the info.....
ohh, and about resetting the ecu, i've done a search on this, and there's varying times for remocal of the fuse, and revving @ 3000 rpm.....
so i'll just leave the engine fuse out for saw 2 mins, and rev it for 30 secs. and yeh, i'll have the car warmed up too before i do it. I dont mind even i those times are too long, im unemployed.... i've got plenty of time.
It also explins why, after installed the new HU (DEH-5750MP) months ago, that my fuel economy has gone considerbaly worse. Thanks mouce, i owe you in all the money in petrol i'll be saving on long trips again! (was getting 7.4L/100, then jumped close to 9.0! after the new HU install with norestting of ECU)
WOW, that was easy....
well, i did drop the fuse when i pulled it out, so there was 2 mins trying to dig it out of the battery well. But one critical thing i noticed, when i went back in to start the car, it done what it's been doing (since i put in th new head unit), it wouldnt turn over, until i turn it off, pull the key out, re-insert an it would start. I assume this was the car's way of telling me...OI RESET MY ECU!
so now, its not lumpy or rough like it was....
thanx a ton mouce! I'd have never figured this out without your advice mate!
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