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Thread: Did i kill my preout?

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    Default Did i kill my preout?

    i had disconnected an amp (which is now dead, wasnt stable @ 4 ohm mono)...

    i had the RCA's still connected to the head unit, and the bloke who intstalled the setup before, ran the remote wire with the RCA's (idiot!)....

    one night, i was driving around, i noticed the stereo was damn quiet when i was turning one direction, and fine when going the other (WTF!)
    so i checked in the back, and i saw that the remote lead, had come in contat with the RCA connected to my sub out on my head unit. I've got a new amp coming... but im wondering, have i done ireversible damage to the HU by letting the remote touch the RCA? (im guessing so, passing 12V into a 2V out from the head unit....) and if so, will i need to replace my HU to have use of a sub out again?

    anyways... wanted to ask.

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    What amp? All car amps can run 4 ohm mono.

    There is nothing wrong with running the remote wire with the RCA's. Why is he an idiot?

    Have you checked the sub output since the 12v touched it? Does it work? We can't tell you what is broken unless you can tell us the symptoms of the fault.

    What head unit?

    The outside part of an RCA is ground, so if 12v touched that it can burn the ground tracks in the head unit, so that is a POSSIBILITY. Also, if you ground a remote wire you can damage the remote wire part of the circuit. But we can't be sure until you test it and tell us what the actual fault is.

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    your deck will be fine
    yes trigger wires can be run with rca's only power wires cant
    so hes not an idiot heheh
    if its a good amp it should have protection mode so no damage is done
    take it to a car audio place and have it all tested if you dont kow what your doing
    both amp and deck should be fine if all good stuff
    ps. cheep shit should be blown and never installed

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    Quote Originally Posted by daron.
    both amp and deck should be fine if all good stuff
    ps. cheep shit should be blown and never installed
    good quality has nothing to do with a h/u being able to survive the remote touching the rca.
    well i guess yes any amp that cant run a mono load and doesnt survive it should be thrown out. its just cheap shit...
    also what do you define as "cheap shit"?

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    cheep shit like no name brands dont normally like any type of a zap name brands can handle 1 or 2 little zaps
    or accidents hehehe

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    anybody who gives there amps little "zaps" or "accidents" shouldn't be allowed to use anything better then a "cheep" shit amp.
    You put you left foot in, your put your right foot in , you take your left foot out and you slide it all about!

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    is boss cheap shit? or are we talking chinese-never-heard-the-name-before brand?

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    I'm not going to gratify that with an answer Garth.
    You put you left foot in, your put your right foot in , you take your left foot out and you slide it all about!

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    boss is cheep shit
    hahahahahaha
    sorry if you have one
    ok for running subz not to good for splits
    but you get what ya pay for

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    yeah, i threw the amp out... and i will check to see if the preouts are workin, i will just drag out another speaker set up with rcas as inputs (2.1 pc system), nd yes, i will disconnect the battery before making any connections....

    i will post back and let you know the the head unitstood up to the accidental abuse of remote touching rcas...

    oh, its a DEH-5750MP by the way.....

    and new amp is one the way, posted details and other questions in this thread...(post number 13)
    Altenator in my Ford died, need a new one. 1000wrms warning :P
    Last edited by ozzietj; 27-05-2006 at 12:34 PM.

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    I doubt that head unit will still be ok if you definitely touched power to the outside of the RCA's. Pioneer head units have a fuse on the circuit board in case that or somethign similar happens. They fuse will be blown if the remote wire actually touched.

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    ok, i'll replace that fuse .... and if she still dont go, hell, i'll just get the newer DEH-5850!!!

    i know, i could just run 2 y cables and use the amps internal crossover.... but i like to control everything from the HU....

    just a picky bastard I know.

    cheers!

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    Do you know where the fuse is? It's on the bottom side of the main circuit board near where the RCA lead meets the board.

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    yeh, little blue 10 amp fuse.... i'll have a go @ pulling all of the dash out again tomorrow (unless i start my new job...ben out of work 6 months).... and yeh, i'll be able to drag out a set of speakers as well, to give em a test. I know i should have a multimeter on hand, and test for continuity as far as th preouts go... but for some unknown reason, i dont have one... might have to change that tomorrow too!!

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    No, it's not... You didn't read my post. The RCA fuse is internal and about half the size of a grain of rice.

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    better get your chopsticks and magnifying glass out then...

    How exactly did the remote lead touch your RCA out?? Wasn't it insulated or something??

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    better get your chopsticks and magnifying glass out then...

    How exactly did the remote lead touch your RCA out?? Wasn't it insulated or something??

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    better get your chopsticks and magnifying glass out then...

    How exactly did the remote lead touch your RCA out?? Wasn't it insulated or something??

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    Quote Originally Posted by semi
    better get your chopsticks and magnifying glass out then...

    How exactly did the remote lead touch your RCA out?? Wasn't it insulated or something??
    how did you manage to post the same thing 3 times? do you stutter when you type?
    just jk!

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    hahah i had no idea i did that until i came back and looked at this thread. oops, first triple post ive seen

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    bah, its all good, my local strathfield put me on to their repair agent here in adelaide (adept electronics). rang them up, they will fix my HU free of charge (warranty) even tho i said i did the damage! So, a quick trip to get my receipt printed out, and off i go.... if worse comes to worse and i'vescrewed more of the HU, they will replace the whole thing. Wow, never seen such good service even for trashing your own equipment, quite different to say mobile phones, someone drops it.. its tough luck.

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    yeah, i'll be continuing to go pioneer in the future, i've had experience with about 4 other head units in the past, always been happy with their operation, and gradual release of features. I know there are better HU's in terms of THD, S/N ratio, features etc, but; its become like an old friend. Seeing as i like to buy things in the mid to upper range (basic just never cuts the mustard) it had what i need for a price i can justify. But, unlike some HU's for thousands.... i know i like my audio, but after being broken into two in the car, having stolen stereos..... i wont ever be investing that much again. Unless... i can get insurance for it one day (not now, unemployed = low income!). So yeah, i'l continue to go pioneer... even if it's only for the HU.

    by the way - i tested the preouts, it survived the remote lead touching it several times.... so, the internal fuse didnt go (found a pic of it on caraudioaustralia.com).... so i wont need to rip it all outof the dash just yet. I will later on though, i simply connected it to the harness thatwas on theoldermodel HU (2550 or something)... it doesnt have anything connected for a mute function (im puttin in a mobile car kit later, so will need that) and just like to have the dimmer function work, as its too bright in the car @ night / distracts me. Can i just solder an "extension" pieceof wire the same guage, and use that? But, what to do, do i just run that to the headlight switch in the dash, and solder it to that as well? Do i have to put a fuse inline as well???

    thanx again.

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    theres a 12V illumination wire in the factory loom, from memory its brown/white, but check the sticky at the top of the car audio page

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