ive run a series of complicated ohms law calculations for my sound system, and have found that at 60% the current draw for the System is Approx 90Amps. can a stocko VN alt provide power for this and the cars systems
? ive been noticing a few flashes of the alt light when driving down the highway, and once it came on for about 25 seconds, and then extinguished after i turned the sound sys off...
the amps are drawing off of one supply line from the batt, its an 8 guage OFC automotive cable. the live is in parralell, and all have there own earths, to both the chassis and seperate lines back to neg terminal. there are several Cold Cathode kits in car, and a few LED spotlights.
time for a new alternator?
The System.
DVD:
7Inch TFT LCD Screen.
HU:
Protec DVD/CD/R/RW/WMA/MP3 player.
Amps:
Two x Jensen Pro 300RMS (500Max) 2Ch Amplifiers. Each Running a Sub.
One x Avalanche 600W 4 channel Amplifer. Powering Speakers.
Speakers / Subs:
Two x 3 way boxed 200W 6.5Inch Speaker systems, with Xovers and tweaters
Two x 200W 6x9 2 way.
Two x 1200W Max Boss Audio 12Inch Sub Bass Engines.
Ive tried to make sure that the supply doesnt max out the speakers and subs, the system goes really hard, doesnt have sound distortion at crank, but it makes my headlights dim a bit on a hard thump. been through 1 batt already.
Would a Capacitor help with voltage drop, and the system? and if so, what Farad Rating, 1 to 3?
#### the ####ing ####ers!
3 amplifiers off a main power cable of 8 gauge is questionable to start. upgrade this to at least 4 gauge, 2 or 0 gauge is even better. then see what problems you still have. capacitors are really only band-aid solutions at this stage.
900Wrms at max power.
p=vi
(900/100)x150=14xI
I=96amps as said.
therefore go with minimum of 4ga. 2ga better though.
Ok, cause i have a 13mm2 power cable, which ive been informed is the gauge i stated...
so ill give it a bigger cable, but will my bat and alt still be able to handle the current draw at load from the system as a whole?
BTW im an electrician, thats how i knew how to figure out the current draw. 90 or 96 was a pretty good estimate, close enough. i doubt it cranks right up to about 96,
#### the ####ing ####ers!
Im an electrician too,good bloke... whats this guage stuff we only know 3 phase large voltate 400 - 415 V 50hz - star,delta, 2.5" TPS 2C + E etc.... ahhh BLAH BLAH what a trade "Gotta Luv it"
Cheers.![]()
* RVN 355 *
mwethereld...there is a HUGE difference in AC from an outlet and AC from an AMP. out of the amplifier is a dynamic signal. Only the largest of the large baass beats will hit the big current draw. which is only about 15% of the time. The rest of it is about 1/10th of the rated power. I wouldn't even concern yourself with your alternator...it'll do just fine.
You put you left foot in, your put your right foot in , you take your left foot out and you slide it all about!
yeah mate, love that shit, having to use 2.5mm2 2C+E for the major powerpoints, 4mm2 2C+E Flex for the stoves and shit, and of course only 1.5mm2 twin and earth for the house lights,,,,, then we have the 3C+E+N, Flex, LD, HD, love my trade mate, ****in love it.
Im only concerned cause my altenator has been playin up more now since i upgraded to larger subs and a third amp, i had a shitty earth from the batt to the body, so i put another in from the batt to the shell, and soldered it all in,
i found the harness earth on the alt was a bit shonky and fixed that up, but the worry is sometimes my alt light will illuminate, then as soon as i cut off the sound sys will go away, makes me think it cant handle the crap im throwin at it....
#### the ####ing ####ers!
Star an delta? didnt know we were gonna get into phase shifts and trannies mate,,,,,
Geez talkin about trannies, lol
#### the ####ing ####ers!