Hey All, sorry for another Jaycar thread but I have searched the forums and the Jaycar website but can find any answers to my questions.
1. How many Watts RMS are the Response Kevlar 6.5" Splits. (Website Has Specs On Every Speaker But These)
2. Has anyone had any success with the Response Subs and what are peoples thoughts on them?
Thanx...
(P.S. I currently do not have a car of my own but when I have enough funds and what I'v heard about Jaycars products I am thinking about going all Jaycar Response Gear except HU of course)
Hey, my whole system is precision response, except HU of course.. the 6.5s are 60w RMS I think. If you do decide to get them, look here: http://www.newmillennium.net.au/shop...hp?category=34
Oh, and I couldn't be happier with the stuff
Thanx for the info. But what about the Response Subs? Anyone?
i have a jaycar venom sub and i think its great for its price
1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD
It says that the Response 12" Sub is 4ohm DVC. Would this be the total ohms with the voice coils combined eg. 2x 2ohm. Or would it be the voice coils seperate eg. 2x 4ohm?Power Handling: 300WRMS
Impedance: 4ohms (dual voice coil)
Voice Coil Resistance: 1.7ohm
Vas: 79.454Ltr
Qms: 3.238
Qes: 0.446
Qts: 0.392
Sensitivity: 88.152dB/Wm
BL: 9.992 TM
Fo: 28.77Hz
Sd: 514.720 sqCM
It also has this if its any help.Stated power handling is a significant 300WRMS total per woofer (150WRMS per voice coil)
Not sure on subs sorry, I've just got the splits and 6*9s, 4*50w amp..
1. How many Watts RMS are the Response Kevlar 6.5" Splits. (Website Has Specs On Every Speaker But These)
they are 60rms matei know cause i just basically finished installing them into my vr
Is it me or is the Response gear way cheaper on NewMillennium.net.au then from Jaycar?
And does anyone have a pic of a remote that comes with the Response amps or can tell me what they consists of eg. frequency, level.etc
Last edited by azzfox; 11-06-2006 at 05:01 PM.
the response carbon subs are 2x4ohm VCs rated @ 150Wrms each.
the remote for the amps (class d and 4x130) is only bass boost. no frequency adjustment on the remote.
would you have the subs ported or sealed?
I mainly listen to Techno and Rock (depends on what mood im in) and I want to go more towards SQ. I would go Sealed. Would this be a good choice?
it doesnt really matter. if you listen to techno/trance/dance them usually you will go for a ported sub because of the style of bass, but rock is usually a sealed box. so i personall i aggree with your choice of sealed.
the reason i asked is because usually you will not play with the frequency the bass is boosted at if you have a ported sub. most people prefer to set the boost around the frequency the port is tuned to.
but with sealed its a bit different.
just out of curiosity... what are peoples crossovers set at? iv been told about 80-100hz for the L.P.F .etc but what have you's got it set at? and has anyone got any tips on setting the xovers? this could help me sort out a friends system.
some serious SQ cars set theirs at 50hz!
i have mine set at 120hz
it really depends on the sub/s. and your personal taste.
the guys with their subs set at 120hz probably have 8" or 10" front woofers though, which play lower than 6.5"
i think you got that arse about. yes they will have a set of tweeters, mids, mid range and then the subs passed at 45hz.Originally Posted by semi
thats the most ideal setup but it really depends on how you want youre system to sound.
i have mine set at 120hz because it offers a nicer transition from 6.5inch to 12 inch ported sub. but you can very easily notice that the stage is split between the boot and front. but i am prepared to live with that (for the moment, when i get a vt s/c i will go a bit more "all out").
How can you overcome this problem? Could anyone explain this with a bit of detail seeing im really confused.Originally Posted by garfa
How could you get a smooth transition between Mids and Subs (Front and Rear)?
Could Rear 6X9's come into play and handle 50hz upwards while the Subs handle below 50hz and have Front 6" Splits handle 100hz upwards?
^Thats Just An Example^
ok well the only way to have the stage set up well is to have all speakers with in a couple of inches of each other.Originally Posted by azzfox
so thats a set of 3 ways (1 inch 3-4inch and an 8 inch woofer) and a 12 inch or so sub. there really is no way to have the stage set up so that there is no dip in the frequency curve when going from a 6 inch driver to a 10-15 inch sub. very expensive speakers will heap a huge amount but there really is no way to fix the curve completely.
an EQ can be used (i am talking about a proper large eq, not the one in the h/u) to flatten and raise any dips in the frequency curve but the best way is to use drivers suited to each other driver's weaknesses.
so pretty much just have the system set p as how you like it.
set the lpf at 60hz. does it sound good? listen for a while now change it to 150hz, how does it sound? listen and change it to 90hz. now where sounded best? set it to your preference and leave it for a few days. play all the types of music you like, not just the bassy stuff because you got a new sub.
now change the filter again, but just a tiny bit. does it sound better or worse? (remember it will sound different, that doesnt mean worse. you just are not used to it yet.) keep play like this and find the place you like the lpf to be set at.
does that all make sence? doing it this way you will learn more about your system and its limits.
So would 6X9's in the Rear (Parcel Shelf) help to smooth it out a bit with 12" Subs instead of going from 6" to 12" but have the Xover set the same as the front 6" speakers or a bit lower? Alot of people dont like them with subs tho.ok well the only way to have the stage set up well is to have all speakers with in a couple of inches of each other.
so thats a set of 3 ways (1 inch 3-4inch and an 8 inch woofer) and a 12 inch or so sub
No, if you have a sub a 6*9 is only going to give you some crappy bass compared to the sub and ruin the music.
A sub is usually set around 80hz, at this frequency the sound is pretty much non directional which makes it impossible to tell where its coming from.
Your sub wont be sounding like its coming from the back, it will sound like its coming from the front with your other speakers because your brain can only pick up the direction of your splits and then it combines the sub with this, so it will seem like its all coming from the front.
Putting in 6*9 will change the stage, and it will now sound like the music is coming from behind you aswell as in front of you, some people like it, some dont.
If you have to put speakers in the back, put 6" not 6*9
the ONLY reason to not like 6x9's is because the oval shaped cone is not as good as a circular cone in producing a flat frequency curve.Originally Posted by azzfox
the small increase in cone size of a 6x9 to a 6 inch will not be a worthwhile difference. it would be far better to have a couple of 8 inch drivers.
it all depends of how much your music is worth to you.
so much for a short thread
You put you left foot in, your put your right foot in , you take your left foot out and you slide it all about!
Yeah I know, funny that.Originally Posted by 12Voltking