VN Alpine stereo - serious upgrade - I need feedback please!!

[savage1987]

Will two Alpine 12" Type R subwoofers destroy my car? If I actually go through with this install, will it shake my car apart? Are there any massive drawbacks I should know about?

Here's the situation.

Current system:

• Alpine CDMA-9841 head unit
• Alpine 4" speakers in dash
• Alpine 6x9 Type S in parcel shelf

Planned upgrade:

• Head unit - Alpine CDMA-9847 or similar with subwoofer control
• Alpine 4" speakers in dash w/ a high-pass filter (a high quality set suitable for amplification, until I put in the door pods to fit 6.5" splits)
• Alpine 6x9 Type R in parcel shelf - should I have a filter here?
• Alpine amp running in-cabin speakers (not too sure about amps . . . don't know much about them)
• Alpine 12" Type R subwoofers - 2 of them in a box in the boot
• Alpine mono amp to drive subs - again, not sure of amp type - V12 has been suggested to me . . .

Also: the car is going to be fitted with Dynamat sound deadener throughout. This will happen with the change to a Calais-spec interior with front door pods from a VR . . .

Any input/reactions appreciated . . .

Cheers
Sam

[VR_Project]

no your car wont be shaken apart...but u may get boot rattle, which you cant hear from inside the car and you can easily fix it with some foam strips on the appropriate spots to stop the rattle...

IMO...F@CK YEAH! sounds like a mad system! and finally...enjoy

[StoneX]

If you're getting door pods, get rid of the 4" speakers and get some 6" or 6.5" splits. The difference is amazing. 4" sound pathetic

[savage1987]

If you're getting door pods, get rid of the 4" speakers and get some 6" or 6.5" splits. The difference is amazing. 4" sound pathetic

Yea that's the plan, it's just that there's a few things to do before the pods go in, and I wanted to start the upgrade before then . . .

The pods are going in when my Calais interior goes in. First I have to install power windows, cruise control and massive amounts of sound deadener. So it could be a while away yet.

I figure I'll do the stereo upgrade in stages - the first of which will be getting the boxed subs running with their mono amp. I'll go from there as the money comes in, and do the interior during the stages of the stereo upgrade.

[garfa]

the main problem i have is that you are using alpine amps and subs.
personal opinion of alpine is that they can be a bit high priced for some of their stuff, but anyways.....
if you are planning of running 2 amps then have you cinsodered the $200 for cabling and what not?
\also fir the price of 2 type R's why not get a single type x? 2 subs will only just increase the sound, not double it. it would be a better thing to do.
the amp for the speakers has a filter on it, so dont worry about that.
but why 6x9's? they stick out like dogs nuts and if you are planning on subs then there is no point, unless you like distorted sound.

[SMIT]

Yeah get rid of the 6x9's, to power the sub i would either recomend a 1 x MRD-M1005 or mayb 2 x MRD-M600's? If your going to be running an amp for each part of ur car (eg, front,rear,sub) they mayb get a headunit with more preouts?

[Stretchomatic]

yeah i agree i have pioneer gear all around, 6.5 splits up front and 6.5-3 ways in the shelf...considering none are amped they go pretty good for my car...

[OVA17]

when u get around to the door pods, put the tweeter where the 4inch was. jus make a bracket up out of central locking back strap. they sound nice as. i didnt think they would sound good but they do. my2cents

KADE

[savage1987]

So if I don't put in 6x9s in the parcel shelf, what do I use for rear fill (no door pods in the rear, and the 6x9 holes are already there . . .)

Thanks for the feedback guys, it's great!

[azzfox]

use 6" - 6.5" coax for rear fill. if the parcel shelf has got holes for 6x9's make up some nice oval spacers the shape of 6x9's but cut 6" (or 6.5") holes in them and smooth out edges.etc

[savage1987]

So for the parcel shelf:

If I decide to go with 6.5", should I go for splits or just plain?? I realise they're just there for fill, but I want the best sound possible, for my own satisfaction. I'm willing to pay the extra for an excellent quality sound.

Keep those thoughts coming guys, this is great!

[azzfox]

id just go with 2-way coaxils. seeing its in the parcel shelf theres no real point of splits because even if you move the tweeters around on the parcel shelf the sound will still be coming from the same place.

[savage1987]

OK sure - I was wondering where I'd put the tweeters anyway . . .

By the way, garfa, I'm aware the cabling will cost a fair bit for 2 amps but I'm willing to pay for the right setup . . . this is special to me . . .

[garfa]

by the way, we still havent resolved why you want 2 subs?

[azzfox]

because it increases SPL a tiny bit?

[savage1987]

Two subs - not sure, I just assumed that since it was a fairly popular option it had some benefit . . .
One Type X 12" would make more sense though - although I think that a double box looks better . . .

[Brycestro]

Ah yes, the age old argument, whether to spend x amount of dollars on one really good sub or x amount of dollars on too not quite as good subs. Just a question, how much you willing to poor into the stereo $$$ wise. Let us know and me and i'm sure others will try and give some more advice too.

[savage1987]

I'm doing the install in stages . . . focused primarily on sound output and quality, and safety of components (i.e. an inbuilt inability to overdrive my speakers, if this is possible . . . ). I'm not going for a custom fibreglass boot setup or anything like that.

Because I'll be doing it in stages, my budget is massive. Several thousand dollars if necessary.

I still haven't decided on a head unit yet. I'm wondering about a DVD touch-screen deck, but I might just focus on audio. As I said, it's undecided at the moment.

Let's go for a budget figure of 7 grand. This will occur over a period of at LEAST 2 years, so I won't be doing the whole thing at once. My first priority is to get some bass going with a sub setup. A good quality one (or 2) that will hold their own in the final system.

Cheers for the help guys, I appreciate it.

[garfa]

ok you are looking at alpine but have a budget of 7 grand? riiiight....... maybe look at mb quart, dynaudio, focal, dls or nakamichi for the speakers/subs.
for a h/u go with nakamichi.
for amps look at soundstream, mq quart or nakamichi.
also you will want to consider some equilisation and professional tuning with an RTA aswell.
as for an inbuilt inability to over power the drivers in the system thats what the volume knob is there for, no system is idiot proof and so any system can wreaked.

[savage1987]

Well as I said, the budget will stretch according to requirements. I don't have a set figure in mind, I'll just keep going in stages until I'm happy with the result.

Volume knob - fair enough . . . I guess it's easy enough to tell when a speaker's being overdriven . . .

Cheers
Sam

[Brycestro]

if you hear your speakers starting to become audibly distorted past a certain volume level, that's a good indication not to turn it up any further. Just thought i'd point out the obvious :P.

[savage1987]

It just occurred to me - with a couple of thousand watts of subwoofer power, will I need a capacitor to stop my headlights from dimming? What are the other benefits of a capacitor, and how big should I go if I do need one?

[brohawk]

im running a mix of stuff atm but im putting in 2 12" kenwood subs i have pioneer 6x9's focal splits going in and a pioneer hed and 4" in the dash. i run all speakers from the hu and i get great sq and i use my amp only for my sub soon to be subs, in my opion if u want 2 12s get them i like the look of 2 12s rather than just 1 but thats just me, i like running 6x9's in the shelf for a lil bit of bass, coz i have a kill switch on my amp to turn my subs off, for when i get home i dnt need my neighbourhood to know i have good equipment so it gives them more incentive to steal it. in my opinion if u like a brand go with it if you have an idea like you do run with it unless someone has the same set up in the same car no1 knows how good it will sound.

as for sounddeadening if you intend to put false walls in your boot or carpet etc, considder what i did and get underboday sounddeadener its alot cheaper and gives great results. then where ever you can see the soundeadening pannels pay a bit more to get the matting. why fork out $$$$$ if your just going to hide it behind wood or carpet.

hope i could help

[garfa]

im running a mix of stuff atm but im putting in 2 12" kenwood subs i have pioneer 6x9's focal splits going in and a pioneer hed and 4" in the dash. i run all speakers from the hu and i get great sq and i use my amp only for my sub soon to be subs, in my opion if u want 2 12s get them i like the look of 2 12s rather than just 1 but thats just me, i like running 6x9's in the shelf for a lil bit of bass, coz i have a kill switch on my amp to turn my subs off, for when i get home i dnt need my neighbourhood to know i have good equipment so it gives them more incentive to steal it. in my opinion if u like a brand go with it if you have an idea like you do run with it unless someone has the same set up in the same car no1 knows how good it will sound.

as for sounddeadening if you intend to put false walls in your boot or carpet etc, considder what i did and get underboday sounddeadener its alot cheaper and gives great results. then where ever you can see the soundeadening pannels pay a bit more to get the matting. why fork out $$$$$ if your just going to hide it behind wood or carpet.

hope i could help

because the tar based EXTERNAL sound deadener you are talking about runs and on a hot day melts and will go into the carpet. thats why its for external surfaces such as under the body! the other reason to fork out the$$$ for the proper stuff is because it does a better job.
the difference between running speakers off the h/u and off an amp is heaps. i used to think ( a very long time ago) there was no difference but i had not heard the speakers amped before.
remove the tar stuff before it does any damage to your carpet!

[Brycestro]

Capacitors have a reputation with most people for doing nothing noteworthy (unless you want one to look pretty). Install all your equipment and if you start to get dimming headlights then concentrate on power. The simplest and cheapest step towards improving grounding is to simply run an additional 4 or 0 gauge run of cable from your battery negative to chassis ground ($10-20 for half a metre of 4 gauge plus two ring terminals). Also make sure your amps are ground well (adequate thickness cable and you've sanded back paint wherever the ground point is being made so you have a solid connection).

After that, you can upgrade your battery to something more powerful such as an optima red, yellow or blue top. (can be had for as little as $300 + $20 postage if you know where to go). These are just starters, let us know how it goes and if necessary we can give more advice.