I currently have my pioneer 306C powered by a 2x100 wRMS amp until my fronts go in (thinking of Boston Pros). I searched and understand that monoblocs are best for subs, but my question is:
is it worth buying a monobloc to run a SVC sub given i cant wire up a 2ohm load?
Or
should i just bridge another 2 channel.
I only ask cause i cant find any amps in my pricerange (~$500-600) with sufficient power to match the 400wRMS of the sub. No intentions to upgrade sub within the year. Any input appreciated
get the precision response monoblock from jaycar for $399... 400wrms at 4ohm and it is supposed to be excelent for its money.
link: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...Max=&SUBCATID=
For that sub, i'd say a cheap average amp like the Jaycar one would be fine. If you do plan to change subs in future, i'd buy something nicer and stick to 2 channel so the amp makes it's most power at 4 ohm.
most monoblock amps are no different to normal amps except that they only have provision for one channel output which is a mix of 2 channel input. There is no real reason to buy a monoblock over any other full range bridgeable amplifier.
* Phreddy's Blaupunkt Aux input and line out mod
* 18x8 inch Equus Kalibur Wheels with Maxxis MAV-1 235/40R18
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yup and so the fact that a monoblock (class D) is up to 90% efficent while most other multi channel amps (class ab) are around 60% because the amps are completely different designs doesn't matter?
For 400Wrms, 25% efficiency is going to make stuff all difference. Stick with the more useful 2 channel.
Monoblocks are different to normal amps, they are more efficient, like garfa said, and they are designed to only run subwoofer frequencies, so they have a beefed up power supply to handle the extra draw for low frequecnies. In theory they should be better for driving a sub, but that is all they can ever drive... I'd much rather a 2 channel that can be used for another purpose if needed.
Thanks for the input. Nothing against jaycar, but i wanted to avoid going down that path but I guess with my budget its my only option re Monoblocks so another two channel it is...
Off topic but i want my front amp under passenger seat. I already have 4ga power down the drivers side to the boot where the sub amp will be, Sub RCA's down passenger side. I'm guessing ill run the front power cable up the middle of the car from distro in boot, front RCA's down passenger side? Any recommendations on where to run the speaker wire? I have a fair bit of 16ga (i think) cable lying around but the jacket is quite thick. Thanks
Originally Posted by garfa
FYI monoblock does not specifically have to be class D. I have a JL Audio e1200 which is a class AB monoblock, but since its class AB, it can drive full range speakers if needed, hence no need to specifically go for monoblock.
* Phreddy's Blaupunkt Aux input and line out mod
* 18x8 inch Equus Kalibur Wheels with Maxxis MAV-1 235/40R18
* Sureflo 3.5 inch medium-loud cat back exhaust
um... shaggers, thats why i said CLASS D!Originally Posted by shaggerz
sorry but why in the hell would you even consider buying a mono-class ab amp to drive full range speakers?
The original poster never specified class D, just monoblock, which can be whatever class you wish.Originally Posted by garfa
And as for why I would get a class AB monoblock, its because I believe (and this may or may not be justified it is just my personal belief) that class AB amps are better quality, but aside from that, the fact that I was looking for a subwoofer amp specifically landed me with the JL e1200, which happens to be perfectly suited for my needs, not that I ever expect to drive full range speakers with it.
I was just pointing out that the way you had it written, it sounded like all monoblocks were class D, since the original post never referred to class D and you did as if it was mandatory for a monoblock.
No offense intended
* Phreddy's Blaupunkt Aux input and line out mod
* 18x8 inch Equus Kalibur Wheels with Maxxis MAV-1 235/40R18
* Sureflo 3.5 inch medium-loud cat back exhaust
nah no offence taken at all.
its just very safe to assume that almost all monoblocks are class d!
i understand the reason for a class ab sub amp but i dont see the point for a mono full range amp. can you see what i am getting at? JL just doesn't make sence sometimes.
ah yes of course! just use the whole dash cavity as a box for to DD drivers! silly me!![]()
mono block amps are compleatly different to " normal ones "
in the way that they are simply designed to do one thing
they dont really get hot compared to the normal ones
they are about half the size and have the same amount of power
if your getting an amp which is gonna do subs you get a mono block
they r fully digital as well as normal ones arnt
so supposivly better sound quality but ya know its really hard to tell anways
they also are cheaper for the amount of $$ compared to a normal amp cause they dont have the extra features of speakers n stuff etc
They are not digital. Please know what you're talking about before posting. SOME of them are Class D (not digital), which if you see how it works will produce a lower quality audio signal.
Any amp will get hot if you're running it at or near maximum power.
Agree StoneX... digital is BAD when it comes to reproducing audio lol... I like nice smooth analog curves and their beautiful warm sound...
* Phreddy's Blaupunkt Aux input and line out mod
* 18x8 inch Equus Kalibur Wheels with Maxxis MAV-1 235/40R18
* Sureflo 3.5 inch medium-loud cat back exhaust
so with a mono block with 2x200 ( for instance) you would be able to hook up a dual cone subwoofer. is that correct. Seems topical but i'm new at the sound game and sometimes it gets confusing. thanks
A monoblock is MONO... One channel. 1 x XXXWatts. So you will never find a 2x200 monoblock.
I think you mean dual voice coil, not dual cone, but a dual voice coils subs are USUALLY connected to each other in either parallel or series, then to one channel of an amp.
hey stone, i found a dual cone speaker in something i pulled apart for bits. why bother really...
andrewgrazier um not trying to be an arse but you seemed to have missed the boat in a couple of threads with your replys!
shaggerz, i would take a fully digital amp over the mix matched amps we are all using. our amps are not really anything, neither fully analogue (valve) or digital.
no you are right... but i do love the sound of valve driven guitar amps, and i prefer constantly variable transistors to modified square waves...
i exaggerate of course, but the 60's were good for some things
* Phreddy's Blaupunkt Aux input and line out mod
* 18x8 inch Equus Kalibur Wheels with Maxxis MAV-1 235/40R18
* Sureflo 3.5 inch medium-loud cat back exhaust
the way i see it, what ever sounds best really. be it valve or transistor. mind you i dont have the past with valves some people have.![]()
Valve guitar amps ..... i lov my marshall, the smell of those burning red hot valves is prolly the best smell i know of .... except for old cars.Originally Posted by shaggerz
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