Seal or rebuild sub box?

[matty88]

I have just finished building my sub box. However the d|ckhead of a teacher can't cut straight and as a result my box is not square. After cutting a new face for the box, this is what I have come up with. There is about a 3mm gap alonhg the front of it. Should I seal it up and leave it as is, or should I rip the whole thing apart, cut all the wood square (the box is big enough for my sub anyway) and fully rebuild it?

[Matty081]

i'd seal it if your going to carpet it, or fix it if your going to paint it.

[Sir-Psycho-Sexy]

gap filler

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

I have just finished building my sub box. However the d|ckhead of a teacher can't cut straight and as a result my box is not square. After cutting a new face for the box, this is what I have come up with. There is about a 3mm gap alonhg the front of it. Should I seal it up and leave it as is, or should I rip the whole thing apart, cut all the wood square (the box is big enough for my sub anyway) and fully rebuild it?

Personally I would start again, as it is not pretty.

Though Have you checke that the box is square? which will cause the same issue if it is out of square

HOW TO --- Check for Square

Measure the diagonal from top left corner to bottom right corner - as 350mm

Then Measure Top right to bottom left, to the same position (outer corners) if it is 350mm then your face board is out of square and needs to be replaced.

If it is higher or lower mm say 360mm or 340mm then your box is out of square on the top plan, by 10mm.

To fix you need to Half the measurement - in this case 10mm/2 = 5mm which is the measurement that you need to push on the corner of the shorter measurement to adjust, by 5 mm.

Then Remeasure and adjust if nessecary.

You will then need to cut blocks for the bottom board and top board and glue and screw into place to keep it square unless you wrap and epoxy it.

[matty88]

Cheers guys, I'll might as well start again. Does anyone have any tips on rebuilding it so it matches up alright nice and square? Mind you that was just a quick rush job, as I needed it to finish before the year. The sub is a Kenwood KFC-W300S, just a cheapie sub to get me started. Tried it out in a mates car, and it goes alright.

[Joe Peeps]

Your port looks quite narrow... whats the volume of the box and what are you tuning to? Have you modelled the specs for potential vent noise?

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

Thanks Joey... missed that was horrified with the pic.... though everyone has to start somewhere.... Good to see that he is giving it a go!!!

I would have vented to the side/rear... but with the KENWOOD sub I would not even worry about a Vent at all as long as the volume is spoton.

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

gap filler

SIR.... all bow for SIR!!!! LOL

I was told you were the "BOG KING"

APPLY liberally!!!!

and then sand like HELL!!!!!!

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

Matty

Personally for the MONEY, TIME and EFFORT I would go a Off the shelf enclosure that is ported as they are dirt cheap and good little units that is the volume that you need or a little larger as you can expand a foam it in side to adjust the volume that you need

for the KFC-W300S on a sealed box you will need .92 - 1.0 cuft and 1.3-1.5 cuft for ported

I personally think that you are better off with a non ported unit.

We have these in that size, carpeted, with the gold inputs, wired and sound dampened.


for $99.00 including delivery to NSW, VIC, QLD - 1cuft

[Joe Peeps]

I get the vibe it was for school project (teacher cut it, had to be done by the end of the year) I searched the TS specs for that sub based on the results i second CAFO's suggestion that a sealed box is definately the way to go. If you decide you want to start again, consider this option. With a ported box you'll get a peaky, and laggy bass response.

[Matty081]

Does anyone have any tips on rebuilding it so it matches up alright nice and square? Mind you that was just a quick rush job, as I needed it to finish before the year.

Don't bother with all the blocks etc to get it square.
If the front back and sides are all cut square and joined flush it'll square itself up.

Sorry, my first comment was relying on the fact that the front face was not cut square but the joined sides were.

LOL Oh, another tip.. Stop stuffing around in class.
One of these takes about 1/2 hr to 1 hr start to finish (box fab) using nothing other then a powersaw, drill and jigsaw and forms of fastening.

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

Don't bother with all the blocks etc to get it square.
If the front back and sides are all cut square and joined flush it'll square itself up.

Sorry, my first comment was relying on the fact that the front face was not cut square but the joined sides were.

LOL Oh, another tip.. Stop stuffing around in class.
One of these takes about 1/2 hr to 1 hr start to finish (box fab) using nothing other then a powersaw, drill and jigsaw and forms of fastening.

Iam glad that you dont build our boxes if you think that they will square themselves......

you dont need the block though you do need a square and measure the diagonals..... and a bit more than screws to hold it square....epoxy is what you would be needing.

Otherwise it will vibrate itself apart and out of square etc....

[matty88]

Well I've decided to cut it down, it's gonna be way smaller, but at least the sub fits. No $$$ means no new wood. I expect the end box to be somewhere around the 500mmx275xwhatever

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

Well I've decided to cut it down, it's gonna be way smaller, but at least the sub fits. No $$$ means no new wood. I expect the end box to be somewhere around the 500mmx275xwhatever

Matty, if you send through the measurement and the thickness of the MDF shall work out the cuft for you.

If you have dramas let me know and see if we can help.

Cheers...take your time and you will be fine.

[matty88]

Will it make any difference in sound and bass?

Seeing that the sub is free air, I guess the box will help it a bit. Ideally it should be bassy as subs are. I'm having cutting the wood square, even with a mitre saw with a laser! I'll sort that out later though. As I now know, a few mm can make all the difference!

[matty88]

I've decided that the box will be 265x500x340mm. Gives a total of 1.0995 cubic feet, the sub needs 1.5.

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

I've decided that the box will be 265x500x340mm. Gives a total of 1.0995 cubic feet, the sub needs 1.5.

I personal would only go with your 1.09995 cuft. as the 1.5 will wash it out and cause a few issues with reverb of the sound wave from the rear/ box to the front/ cone of the sub.

though you choose.

[matty88]

I've changed the 265mm to 280mm, giving a total of 1.4cuft. I hope it is bassy!

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

I've changed the 265mm to 280mm, giving a total of 1.4cuft. I hope it is bassy!

Each to there own... now worries.

[matty88]

haha I was getting disapointed when I wasn't getting square cuts, make sure the saw is square! a few degrees off made all the difference. Now I have one square side, will cut the rest when I can be bothered.

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

haha I was getting disapointed when I wasn't getting square cuts, make sure the saw is square! a few degrees off made all the difference. Now I have one square side, will cut the rest when I can be bothered.

Thats the right attitude... it happens in the xmas season.... anyway best of luck with it.

Cheers

[matty88]

I got one panel square, and I can't get the other same sized panel to match.

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

I got one panel square, and I can't get the other same sized panel to match.

Just take your time and you will be right

[matty88]

Can I clamp the two together and sand them till it's alright?

[Car Audio Factory Outlet]

I dont see why not, though if it is out a lot I would make the one that is out using the one that is right as a template. then plane it off.

Would be better