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Thread: 60 Watt output problem

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    Question 60 Watt output problem

    Hey there, Until I can afford to replace my RF amps for my speakers I thought that I would try the 60 Watt HU outputs.
    The head unit is a Pioneer Premier DEH-P8MP This one!!

    Now on the bottom of the HU is a switch where you select between 40Watts (default) and 60Watts. I have made sure this is set to 60 watts and I am pretty sure the VTs Accessories circuit is 10A, which is required to run in the high power mode.

    As I bet you saw coming, the problem is that it is still outputting at 40 Watts. Has anyone else with a Pioneer HU come across this problem before or anyone have any ideas how to fix it? All I could think of was running a fused wire directly from the battery to the HU, but I was pretty sure the accessories wire is powerful enough.

    Thanks in advance!!!
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    That what you get with buying a premier unit... as they are not the same built quality as the Pioneer Oceania models

    So how do you know it is still only outputting 40 watts?? plus your are talking Watts not RMS as 40 - 60 in RMS is only about 4-6 points... so not a big noticable difference which may be the issue.
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    You know I never knew the difference between the Pioneers and the Premiers so I got the one with the cool name lol. There was nothing on the Pioneer website about it. Its been an awesome head unit though, haven't had a single trouble (Apart from the REDICULOUSLY slow iPod interface.

    I can tell its running at 40Watts because it has it on the display when you change the volume.
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    God, you talk some sh1t, CAFO.

    Premier is exactly the same quality as the Oceania models. If you look at the DEH-P1Y service manual, it is actually the DEH-P8MP service manual too.

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    Try and get them serviced here...at an authorised service.

    And I guess that is why they are not for sale here

    You only need to look at the P5800 etc as they will not tune to the radio frequencies here though I guess they are oceania model too......d!ck!

    You are the one normally up in arms OVER GREY IMPORTS!!!!
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    I work for an authorised service centre... They are the same unit with minor cosmetic and software differences.

    There is two DEH-P5800MP models, a Euro one with the multi colour changing face and the US version of the DEH-P5850MP. The US version will have 10kHz AM steps for the radio, but the Euro version has optional 9kHz/10kHz steps.

    I get up in arms over people giving out incorrect info.

    The US have standard models and Premier models. The Premier have a few extra features and a longer warranty. The Premier are the equivalent of the US models for features.

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    I have a DEH-7650MP and it has the optional AM 9kHz/10KHz does this mean its the euro version? r they bother still the same quality in the end?
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    And does anyone have any ideas how to fix my problem lol????
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrx884 View Post
    I have a DEH-7650MP and it has the optional AM 9kHz/10KHz does this mean its the euro version? r they bother still the same quality in the end?
    Nah, most models from the various areas around the world have selectable frequencies, it's just the US models that don't have it.

    filthgrinder... As far as I know, all you do is flick the switch and hook up the thicker power wire and 60W works. If you've done that, read though the manual to see if there is anything else to do, if there isn't you might need to get it looked at.

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    So I will have to run a seperate power wire? The cars Accessory wire isn't enough?
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    Default to all people who don't know

    if on your display its says your are outputting at 40 watts, then you are outputing at 40 watts, regardless of the switch setting. obviously the switch is the fault. the pioneer and premier models are built in the same factory and are of the same build quality. your vt commodore can handle that amount of current. But you should change the fuse to 15amps. The wire can handle that amount of current from that distance to fuse panel. the head unit does not know what wire is connected to it. if it draws 15 amps it will try to regardless what size wire it is.

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    Yea thats what I would've thought in regards to the current. Maybe I'll just leave it alone until I can afford another dirty big beautiful RF amp lol. Its not worth getting it looked at as it is only temporary for 5-6 months hopefully.
    Thanks everyone
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    The new RF models are released at the end of Feb though mainly punch series stuff that has been changed.
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    Oooh I didn't notice they were releasing the punch subs again, just reading the press release now. They are VERY sexy indeed!!

    I have been looking at a Power T212D4, how do you think the new P3's will stand up against them? Also taking cost into account. I was thinking of building an SPL car (Though I hear commo's arn't very good for this, need more rice), but I really want to maintain SQ. If I can get a pair of P3's for around the same price as a single T2 would it be worth it?

    Will be matched with P162S splits in front and T162C rears, running through a 4 channel amp.
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    Quote Originally Posted by filthgrinder View Post
    Oooh I didn't notice they were releasing the punch subs again, just reading the press release now. They are VERY sexy indeed!!

    I have been looking at a Power T212D4, how do you think the new P3's will stand up against them? Also taking cost into account. I was thinking of building an SPL car (Though I hear commo's arn't very good for this, need more rice), but I really want to maintain SQ. If I can get a pair of P3's for around the same price as a single T2 would it be worth it?

    Will be matched with P162S splits in front and T162C rears, running through a 4 channel amp.
    THe Mixing of the P162S would be a waste of money

    You are much better off with the T162S

    I still would go the T212D4 as they are a much better sub than the P3's ... bigger magnet... bigger sound etc.

    Plus the Old P3's dont like multiples that much.... 2 or more subs.

    The T212D4 are only $699.00

    Look at the new T4004 it looks the bill for an amp though you might go a size or two ... depends on the $$$$$$$


    We already have the new dealer list and alot on back order but have been told from RF they will not be released for 3 weeks.
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    I already own the P162S speakers, I guess I could eBay them and get the T162S's, though my rear T162C speakers distort way before my front splits for some reason.

    I meant a pair of the New P3 Subs, not the old ones, though yea I have read that the one T212D4 sounds alot better, cleaner and ballsier.

    Can you tell me why people go bigger than 4004 amps to 8004? The speakers cant draw or handle that power anyway? Just a bit confused.

    When I finish paying off my car I will probably go through you if you can do me a good deal, will probably be a fair few months tho. Cheers
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