when buying a cap do i need to look for anything special for my particular system or are all caps the same? i have 2 12 inch subs and a mono block amp if that helps, thanks
mate, with only 2 12 inch woofers do not get a cap.
only bother with a cap if you arte pulling around 3000Wrms and arte willing to spend upwards of a 5F cap.
I wouldnt bother with a cap either. I dont specialise in audio, but I do specialise in electronics. In electronics, caps have very important and specific role. In car audio, all I see them as is a quick money maker for manufacturers. You are only going to need a cap if the battery is struggling to provide instantaneous power. When the car starts, the starter motor can happily draw a few hundred amps. Very few sound systems draw that much, and it is only in peaks anyway. The lead acid battery is perfectly designed to deliver peak currents anyway, they are great for car audio.
Last edited by kopper69; 22-04-2007 at 11:59 AM.
so i just need a new battery? because when i pump my system the battery light stays on and at night even with my subs turned down when i put the indicator on the headlights dim the dash dims and the battery light comes on, also when i put the front dimister the battery comes onperhaps get a second battery for the system or something?
I would go to a battery specialist, battery world, local batteries etc and tell them your problem. You may just need to invest in a new, slightly more expensive battery. A capacitor is going to take more power from the battery when it is trying to charge and its purpose it to have power available for times when the system is trying to suck a huge amount of power for a very short time. If the battery cant maintain the current system, the capacitor isnt going to charge properly anyway, so in theory its just going to make things worse.
caps are for lazy ppl who dont upgrade there wiring kits from battery to amp
you wont need one
thanks for your help guys will look into monday
As they've said above, you don't need a SECOND battery or capacitor. You need to find out if it's your alternator or your battery causing the battery light to come on. Your battery could be dying or your alternator might not be charging properly.
my battery light is always on ( not when engine is running tho)
when u said your battery light is on, is ur engine running? or in the ACC coz i think everyones battery, engine and other lights are on when the engine isnt running but car is on
Just make sure you get it fixed up soon though, battery light coming on means the voltage is bouncing around outside of normal limits. If it goes outside of the limits by enough, which it eventually will, the car will stall mid flight, so to speak.
Sabby, you are just refering to the self test the car does just before the engine starts. Simply allows you to make sure all the lights are working. That way, if the engine light doesnt work, you can fix it before it really comes on but you cant see it because of a blown bulb.
With the dimming ur gettin try using the same size grounding wire ur using on ur amp and replace the battery 2 alternator ground wire then engine 2 chassis wire that should fix it
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wrx: the alt is grounded to the block...
vtsuperchargedboy: you alternator is stuffed probably. if you are having problems with even the demister turned on and what not it will be the alt. the car sucks power from the alt when running and that will cause the light to come on. if the battery was that bad that it was some how low enough voltage to make the light come on then you would have problems with starting your car.
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Maybe he meant the alternator to battery Positive. That should improve alternator to battery flow. Of course if his alt is ****ed anyway it will make SFA difference and is a bitch to change too. This will help keep your battery voltage in good nick though
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