flat battery due to extra demand from amps/subs

[cxcxcxvcvcvc]

I have been running a fusion jonah lomah d class amp in the boot powering 2 power plant subs with a fushion power plant 4 channel amp powering a front set of xplod splits for about a year now in my vs calais and the demand has killed my battery i want to run an extra battery in the boot for just the audio gear & extra accesories (custom lighting ect) and the main battery in the front to power all the cars normal accesories like power windows remote locking trip com all that stuff. i think i may have already killed my amp as its not turning on anymore and it cost me $1500 from new (it just stoped working the other day) as soon as i noticed this i disconected all my amps and am just running the back speakers of the head deck now. But in future when i set up the extra battery in the boot is their a good battery that someone can recomend that will be able to handle the demand? the recomended voltage rateing on the D amp is around 13-14.5 volts would i need to replace the stock factory alternator with a higer voltage one to power the 2 batterys? and if so wil the extra charge damage my computer in the calais? i know its alot of questions but i want to do the job right any help would be extremely greatfull thanks!

[| evaN |]

I have been running a fusion jonah lomah d class amp in the boot powering 2 power plant subs with a fushion power plant 4 channel amp powering a front set of xplod splits for about a year now in my vs calais and the demand has killed my battery i want to run an extra battery in the boot for just the audio gear & extra accesories (custom lighting ect) and the main battery in the front to power all the cars normal accesories like power windows remote locking trip com all that stuff. i think i may have already killed my amp as its not turning on anymore and it cost me $1500 from new (it just stoped working the other day) as soon as i noticed this i disconected all my amps and am just running the back speakers of the head deck now. But in future when i set up the extra battery in the boot is their a good battery that someone can recomend that will be able to handle the demand? the recomended voltage rateing on the D amp is around 13-14.5 volts would i need to replace the stock factory alternator with a higer voltage one to power the 2 batterys? and if so wil the extra charge damage my computer in the calais? i know its alot of questions but i want to do the job right any help would be extremely greatfull thanks!

At one stage i had two batteries and i wouldn't recommend it unless you upgrade your alternator. I had a isolater running in between so it would only charge the back battery once the front battery is full. Because the alternator could hardly keep up, the back battery was rarely fully charged so i kinda wasted 400bux on the back battery.
Buy a decent front battery like a optima yellow top and that should be enough for most. unless you like to listen to your subs for ages with the engine off or pump it hard all the way home.
http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/Pr...owtop_Deep.htm

[cxcxcxvcvcvc]

At one stage i had two batteries and i wouldn't recommend it unless you upgrade your alternator. I had a isolater running in between so it would only charge the back battery once the front battery is full. Because the alternator could hardly keep up, the back battery was rarely fully charged so i kinda wasted 400bux on the back battery.
Buy a decent front battery like a optima yellow top and that should be enough for most. unless you like to listen to your subs for ages with the engine off or pump it hard all the way home.
http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/Pr...owtop_Deep.htm

thanks mate yeah i just got off the phone to the guys @ autobarn logan city and they have also recommended the single yellow top battery as well! so @ this stage will give it a go (when i can afford to get one lol) and see if that does the job but he did say that they are not really desinged for starting cars or something? but if all else fails i will go ahead with the dual install.

[Joe Peeps]

bah! my YT has 750 CCA... they may not be a genuine starting battery but they'll turn over most cars methinks.

Further, ensure your grounds are all good - upgrade the big three to some fat cable, and if you run adequate sized power cable you should be right without the need for a second battery

[cxcxcxvcvcvc]

bah! my YT has 750 CCA... they may not be a genuine starting battery but they'll turn over most cars methinks.

Further, ensure your grounds are all good - upgrade the big three to some fat cable, and if you run adequate sized power cable you should be right without the need for a second battery

i am running all amps of 0 gauge wire and the same for the earths but when it was all hooked up and cranking all the lights in the car would go dim everytime the subs kicked so i think its to much on the stock chargeing system? i can see this costing more big $$$ again (sighs) also even though they arent designed for starting cars it wont wreck the battery will it?

[Joe Peeps]

The YT is a dual purpose battery my friend, so all is good:
Deep Cycle

Were are your amps earthed?

[| evaN |]

have a read of this
Technical - Stopping Headlights Dimming - Mobile Electronics Australia
it should solve your problems without costing an arm and a leg. If not then its time to upgrade your whole charging system

[cxcxcxvcvcvc]

The YT is a dual purpose battery my friend, so all is good:
Deep Cycle

Were are your amps earthed?

Ontop of the rear wheel arch inside the boot. i got a power drill in there and cleaned away a small area back to the steel and conected it there with a gold plated connector.im worried my D amp might be damaged as it just stoped working i think it was because there wasnt enough charge in the battery to keep it going, i just hope she isnt cooked Thanks for the link though now i have to save up and get the money for one of these batterys and hope my amp aint fried!

[cxcxcxvcvcvc]

have a read of this
Technical - Stopping Headlights Dimming - Mobile Electronics Australia
it should solve your problems without costing an arm and a leg. If not then its time to upgrade your whole charging system

thanks for the link mate i will refer to it when i out the new battery in

[Sabby]

go to battery world. they have everything

i bought a marine deep cycle 640cca for $180

i had the stereo running at 30/40 with 2 Subs off a big mono block.

it ran for about 5 hours, and then i could still start the car. charged it wen i finsihed and its all back to square 1

[PRH]

Well ya can put in heaps of batteries but ya need to have an alt to handle the load, so putting in an extra battery just means ya batteries will last a bit longer before going flat,we used to fit a 130 amp Bosch alt BXH 13012 from memory or use the internals if ya run a Bosch already.
Regards Phillip

[totq]

cxcx..
No matter what battery you use, even if you put in an extra battery, it will eventually suffer the same fate because the problem is the alternator - it is not of enough charging capacity (supply) to meet your stezza gear (demand).
You need to have a bigger alternator or have one custom built, but it must have a good quality regulator to ensure the alternator's higher charging capacity doesn't 'cook' the battery when demand is not at full capacity.
What capacity is the existing alternator now? Is is a stock alternator?
Are the head lights dimming along to the beat when the stezza is cranked up at night?

[cxcxcxvcvcvc]

i pulled both my amps out of the boot and there was 4 fuses blown in the top of the d amp! so with any luck it should hopefully still be ok heres a pic of them both they look really dirty and smudged but they will clean up ok. i also ran a volt test on the car battery and she had 12.4 volts (engine off) and 14.4 with engine going so the battery is definately ok to run the car alone but if i hook the amps back up she will die again i think the yt battery should get it all sorted though

[garfa]

ok lets get this straigt, what fusion monoblock is it? the begger or smaller jonah? and the 4ch is only running a set of sony splits. right?
personally it seems that if you are experencing dimming and battery failing to charge (how old was the battery when it died?) from such a set up something is not right.
check all possible causes, joins in cables, alt, ect.....
upgrade and fit extra grounds as has been stated.
a yt is a bandaid solution.

[totq]

cxcx, adding to my post #12, something is definitely not right hence, the amp blowing fuses...

[cxcxcxvcvcvc]

ok lets get this straigt, what fusion monoblock is it? the begger or smaller jonah? and the 4ch is only running a set of sony splits. right?
personally it seems that if you are experencing dimming and battery failing to charge (how old was the battery when it died?) from such a set up something is not right.
check all possible causes, joins in cables, alt, ect.....
upgrade and fit extra grounds as has been stated.
a yt is a bandaid solution.

its the bigger amp thats drawing to much its a fjl 16d it was the biggest d block amp in the jonah size. i have a 0 gauge wire running from the front of the positive battery term straight through to a splitter in the back and then into both amps. i have the earth wich is also 0 gauge conected to the rear wheel gaurd inside the boot. i also have a stinger fuse up the front and the head lights only start to dim when you crank it hard. one thing that im sus on though is when i hook up the positive power cable to the jonah it has a little electrical spark for a second? i think it did it in my vl aswell but the smaller amp wich is running of the same power cable dosent seem to do it?

[Tasmaniak]

has the earth to battery cable been upgraded at all? 99% of people forget to upgrade that bad boy laying to waste the 0ga cable.

[garfa]

well then you could say that you are drawing less than 2000 watts.
again, something is wrong. get that fixed then there will be not headlight dimming.

[Joe Peeps]

has the earth to battery cable been upgraded at all? 99% of people forget to upgrade that bad boy laying to waste the 0ga cable.

i have dual 0g runs - hit 140.9 on TL without upgrading battery to chassis. Added 0g batt- to chassis earth - and hit 141?

[cxcxcxvcvcvc]

no i havent changed the earth cable it didnt realy come to mind? garfa yes my amp is only cea rated to 1600 wrms @ 14.5 volts but on the average 12 volts its arond 600-900 but i actually thought of something today while at work, a few weeks ago i had a set of pacey extractors installed by a well known muffler and exhuast place and they usually take the battery cables off to do the welding and im wondering if the have stuffed my amp by either 1 takeing the earth off the battery first (wich is not good for any car audio) or 2 wether the current from the welder has killed my amp? and you just know if thats the case i have no chance of getting them to fix it let alone prove it could this be the case?

[Sabby]

why is it bad to take off the negative first?

[cxcxcxvcvcvc]

why is it bad to take off the negative first?

well get this,
in the max ellery when ever you carry out any electrical work on your car you are supposed to take off the negative battery cable first before the positive (this is to prevent a possible spike to the cars computer or so it reads) but..
when you install your amps it will tell you that the last cable to go on should be the positive right? (to avoid blowing your amp) so if you take the cars negative off first when carring out any work your effectivly allowing only a direct positive feed to your amp,head decks ect which is what the manul says not to? as it says to put the earth cable on first. The only way around this is to disconnect your positive power cable to your amp first. then remove the negative cable and then the positive unfortunetly when you take your car in to get fixed, serviced or work done most people arent thinking of your amps in the boot and just take of the neg cable first

[cxcxcxvcvcvc]

so would it be possible for the amp to blow due to someone doing welding on my car?

[myvtspack]

hey hows it goin mate wat sort of commy is it. i have a vt running a fusion powerplant 1500watt running two pioneer 15s and a fusion 400watt running my 6x9s and i killed my alternator. i put a 100 amp alternator $300 from repco and just put a standerd brand new battery and it runs beautifull plus running everything in the car the only problem i have is my battery light is till on but i have been told its not due to the system

[Garth]

so would it be possible for the amp to blow due to someone doing welding on my car?

no

it is pysicaly impossible for that to happen. goes against all laws of physics. i can tell you teh following

when you get a batter, it has a cca ratting, cold cranking amps ratting, this is how much the battery can produce for a period of time to start the car when cold. (usualy a tiem frame of 5 to 10 minutes.)

when you drive your car under normal conditions. i.e. say going down to the shops and back you car for example will use 40 to 50 amps from the battery to keep all systems running in your car, all sensors, brakeing bits, fuel pump, guages, all the stuff you can think off.

you remove yoru normal little radio and replace that with a monster and put a 1200 watt amp and sub in the boot. now, this is where it gets nasty. you are now drawing 70 to 80 amps from the batter, however due to restrictions placed on your alternator (electrical principles 3 and 4) your battery is now no-longer able to suply the demand needed by your car.

to sum it up.
stock alternator. 60-70 amps.
new radio and all other bits still there 80-90 amps
difference in current 10-20 amps
effect, battery goes flat and headlights will dip as alternator reaches saturation point (there point where it is un-able to produce anymore current)

sollution is replace alternator. and put a bigger battery in there also
or run a 2nd alternator in parralell with your current one, producing same voltage, 2wice the current. (will need a bigger battery)
while your at it, you will need a bigger earth wire