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Thread: Sub for VE SSV

  1. #1
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    VE SSV

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    Sep 2007
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    Default Sub for VE SSV

    Hey there boys and girls.... I've had my SSV two weeks now... and couldn't handle the fact that the 11 speaker blaupunkt stereo put out as much bass as a datsun 120Y's tailpipe. (THAT'S BUGGER ALL FOR THOSE WHO DIDN'T WORK IT OUT).

    I had a 10" Earthquake sub, 350Watt Sony Es series amp, a ported enclosure, and a few other goodies sitting in my shed... so I got busy on Fri night.

    Now for those of you who look in the boot and cry "what if you want to put something through the centre hole... fear not! The box is fully removeable. In fact, the amp is bolted to the top, and all of the non-heat producing electronics such as power filters, low pass filter, relay, and even a stiffening cap are enclosed in the actual box, and covered with sound deadening.

    All I have to do is unplug one speakon connector to disconnect power, and an RCA for line. Then it lifts straight out. FYI - it is held to the boot mat with heavy duty velcro.

    I tapped the signal off the rear 8" woofers in the back shelf, ran it through a speaker to line level converter. Main power comes straight off the battery terminals, through a large fuse and 8G cable. Ignition is tapped straight out of the fuse box.

    It by no means makes this a competiton-grade car system.... but it is 1000 percent better... and can be removed easily, without leaving any sign of it being there.
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  2. #2
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    VY SS

    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    SE Victoria
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    1,934

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    eeeeee............
    i would be concerned for all screw and the pcb of anything in or on the box.
    whats the speakeron rated to? and what size in the main fuse?
    one last Q what do you mean by "Ignition is tapped straight out of the fuse box"?

  3. #3
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    VE SSV

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    Na, no probs... no different than a passive crossover pcb in a 2-way PA speaker. The only thing in the box with a pcb is the low pass filter. I ran the same set up in my last car for 4 years without a problem.

    By background is professional audio... so I've been very critical with all connections.

    speaker is rated at 300RMS.

    I ran a trigger wire that gets 12v+ when the ignition is on. This then powers a small relay, which then provides power to the low pass filter and turns the amp on. I have taken it from inside the fuse box in the passenger kick panel.

    I could run a feed off the back of the stereo, however it would make absolutely not difference except for the fact that it would power on with the stereo, not ignition. Don't feel like pulling the dash apart and risking rattles afterwards.

  4. #4
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    VY SS

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    SE Victoria
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    so whats sort of current rating does a speakeron go to? i was oonly aware of them going to around 30amps.

  5. #5
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    VE SSV

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    The NL4FC is rated at 30 amps.... but there is no way I am going draw more than that. The amp is rated at 350 watts max output. It may peak at over 30 amps if I ran it flat out... but not long enough to cause any issues to the contacts. The stiffening cap in the box should take out most of the spikes anyway. Put it ths way.... I run a 25 or 30 amp fuse... and haven't blown one in the 4 years I have been running this set up.

    There's probably less current going through this than a speaker stack on a PA getting 10,000 watts.

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