hey guys i was thinking about buying a ALPINE SWX-1243D 12" but i was thinking will be a bit to bassy in my vz can anyone recommend a sub around 800wrms or 700. i can't seem to find any in that range just below the 1000wrms.
tune it down??? the new type X's are very flexible with their sound output...
seriously, what are you going to do with > 600 watts RMS? It's too overkill, i have an old school RF punch being fed 116 watts RMS and the bass reproduction on that is sweet![]()
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
well i used to have 2 pioneer subs that were 1000 watt max each and i wanted jsut a bit more
well, you're very bass hungry i guess :P
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
Yeh but how much power a woofer handles has nothing to do with how loud ur system will be .
Its your amplifiers which dictate how loud a system will be.
not if you ment a VC or 2....... hehe
Huh? Whats that sposed to mean Garfa?
replace the ment with melt.
i was a little tired.
Yeh but noone said anything about using a small woofer. I said its not the woofer that dictates how loud the system will be. Your amplifier does that. Thats why you need to match the system properly, not just get the biggest sub you can find and feed it peanuts.
What's their RMS rating? How much power are you feeding them (RMS output rating of the amp providing the subs with power)? Do you still have the subs?
So do you plan on just upgrading the subs and using the same amp/s? If that's the case you'll only end up with a better quality sub/s, which may mean better quality and/or a little bit louder depending on the installation... but if you really want to go louder you need more power, which means upgrading your amp/s. Don't go overpowering subs though.
Also, what kind of enclosure are the Pioneer's installed in? If they're in sealed enclosures then you will be able to get them to go louder by installing installing them in a suitable ported enclosure... maybe a cheaper option for you to consider.
In general;
sealed -> sound quality
ported -> SPL
Might be running the risk of sounding like a friggin moron, but what is wrong with that? I could understand if you had said he matched a 400Wrms amp with a 200Wrms sub, but I'm a little confused. Didn't think there was any harm in under-powering a sub, as long as the signal isn't clipping.
personally JB i hate underpowering your drivers, the loss of headroom and in a lot of typical installations will mean a lower quality amp matched to a better sub.
also the type of box can only be regarded if its built to the woofer. you can get SQ and spl from ported easily if you make sure the box and sub are suited.
also as for the different subs scolari was talking about they may very well have a higher efficency.
Oh yeah I definitely understand that but theoretically there is nothing wrong with it. I guess I just took your post the wrong way.
Yeah that's why I highlighted the word suitable, to keep things simple I didn't want to go into it. I also understand that you can have SQ with a ported box but again to keep it simple I said generally if you want SQ you'd have a sealed box, and for SPL you'd go ported.
Theoretically there is nothing wrong with underpowering if the person installing the system knows how to tune it correctly, due to the fact the speakers dont make power they handle power.
However generally its better to match the amplifiers output to the driver or allow the amplifier ratings to be higher than the drivers power handling due to the fact that music is dynamic and not always will the amplifier be running at its full rated output.
Amp headroom is what its all about, i used to run 2000 into a 600RMS woofer, and It was sweet. Speaking of JB i was in there the other day and the workers were being given a tute on octaves, ported boxes, sub wiring etc they had no idea but they were at least being told and you'd hope that some of it would stick
"The crisis of today is the joke of tomorrow" HG Wells
jb: joey knows what he is talking about. there is no problem with a 600Wrms woofer connected to a 2000Wrms amp. its the user that gives the sub too much power and frys it. if you have a bit of an idea and know the tells of distorsion and over powering, then you can run any size amp with what ever sized woofer.
Thanks Garth, you helped clear up the point i was trying to make
JBDrifter:
I have a 2000RMS amplifier (a rockford T2000 for reference) formerly running a T115D4 RF woofer rated at 600RMS, the woofer didnt fry and still works nicely to this day. The reason?
Gains were on minimum, and the Sub level control was at -20 on my pioneer deck. This translates to the sub getting nowhere near the nominal output of the amp. What alot of people forget is that amps are not switches just because it can make 2000watts (under CEA rules) it will NEVER make this in car under normal use.
look at the posts above by George and Garfa: under/over powering is perfectly fine if the system is tuned correctly (within reason of course). Think about what happens to an amplifiers output when you turn it down.
What you have with my scenario is not headroom, but insane overkill. Solution? i bought a Digital Designs 9915![]()
"The crisis of today is the joke of tomorrow" HG Wells