Well ill start from the top i have a few questions
1.i plan to run a pioneer all around set up and to ask pioneer for spponser me iv heard it easy to get a basic sponsor of them stickes, shirts, odd audio gear all to drive around with there equipment and a sticker on your car, any one done this/heared of it?
(Pioneer all around)
Head Unit: DEH-P8950BT - 3 pairs of 4-Volt RCA preouts
Front Audio:
TS-C1625 220W MAX (2x 6"woofer, 2x 1" tweeter)
TS-C1002 150W MAX (2x 4"woofer, 2x 1" tweeter)
Rear Audio:
TS-C1625 220W MAX (2x 6"woofer, 2x 1" tweeter)
either 6x9s 460w MAX or 6" 220 MAX on the back shelf
Boot/Subs:
2x TS-W257D2 10", DVC, 2-ohm, 1000w Max, 350w RMS
2x TS-W307D4 12", DVC, 4-ohm, 1200w Max, 400w RMS
1x TS-W384C 15", SVC, 4-ohm, 700w Max, 350w RMS
Amps:
2x GM-7300M Mono Amplifier - 360Watts RMS x 1
(For 10" and 12" Subs)
1x GM-6300F 4-Ch Bridgeable Amplifier - 60 Watts x 4 RMS
(to drive front and rear 6" splits)
1x GM-3300T 2-Ch Bridgeable Amplifier - 60 Watts x 2 RMS
(Bridged To deive 15" Sub)
What do people think and if any thing what should i change? and why?
Speaker Handeling power 6570w to 7050 MAX (RMS= about a 3rd of MAX 2190W RMS)
Amp Out put power 2500w MAX (1090w RMS)
(note max watt peak power is measured at the moment just befor the speaker blows up at the point it sounds like crap runs for about 2 mions and smoke comes out and sparks fly roughly RMS = 1/3 of the quoted peak handeling)
ideas for the boot install also very welcome
2.ok with a big stereo i kno ill bee needing power.
So i'll need a bigger alternator and 2x batterys for my VL to power my stereo and iv heared of people putting a automatic switch between the 2 batterys they install with the stereo being wired to the seconadary battery and having a switch between the main battery (car electronics ect...) and the second battery so if the voltage drops to low in the main battery it'll cut of supplying power to the second battery that the stereo is drawing power of, so your not in the s*#t with a flat battery if u leave the stereo on to long.
•whats that type of switch called?
•What alternator should i get?
•What batterys should i get?
3. Sound dending and rattle stoping? with the amount of subs being installed the boot and car will rattle alot what would be best to stop this?
I'v thought of that exspanding foam u get in a car spray in tight spaces and it expands and drys would this be any good?
Is there any thing i may have over looked?
1. Iv never heard of anyone being sponsored that easily, good luck with it tho!
Ok, thats a bit overkill dont you think? 5 subs.. is there even enough room in the boot? and why do you want so many? You can forget needing 6x9's
Secondly, you seem to have a major power shortage in your selection of amps. Correct me if im wrong but that mono amplifier will be just be able to power one sub correctly let alone another 3. Working out a wiring diagram for the subs will be a tad tricky too, especially when some are SVC and some DVC.
2. Not sure on an 'automatic switch', but I have heard of people using electronic solenoids to disconnect the second battery when the ignition is off.
3. With 5 subs, you will have more to worry about than a few vibrations
No offence, but it seems like you havnt thought this through at all. Instead have just wrote down whatever looked good on the pioneer website. But hopefully we can point you in the right direction.
I suppose you think that if you put as many different products in the pioneer people will be more likely to sponsor you?? Just a heads up that it will sound very poorly if you go done this path.
Simplify mate.
1 set of splits up front, 1 set coax in the rears, maybe 2x12 subs and a 4 chan and a monoblock will sound 10x better then your proposed system, which is a recipe for disaster.
And whilst i have been wrong many a time before, there is no way i see Pioneer just dishing out sponsorships. Good luck with it all though mate![]()
"The crisis of today is the joke of tomorrow" HG Wells
Yeh ill forget the 6x9's
The mono block can power 2 subs thats why im getting 2 mono block amps, one mono block to power the 2x 10" 's and one for mono block for the 2x 12" 's
The idea behind the range of sizes in subs is like a big set of splits (Component Speakers that consist of a matched tweeter (small, high frequency), midrange (medium, medium frequency) and subwoofer (large, low frequency) set. These component pairs are available in two speaker and three speaker combinations, and include an audio crossover which limits the frequency range that each component speaker must handle. This allows each cone to produce its optimal frequency for maximum sound quality and volume.)
(but for bass) the smaller 10" sub for the higher bass frequencies and the larger 15" sub to handle the lowerer bass frequencies
also it well i hope will make for a good boot instal with the 15" in the center then the 12" beside that and the 10" on either side with the amps mounted under a false floor.
will it fit?
i dont kno i think it will if all subs are in encloded box's, ported box's would be nice but the room wont be there.
Getting the sponsor?
They should sponsor me with t-shirts and stickers and **** nothing big they would only pay $1 for that **** any way, but getting them to supply audio gear for me/anyone well that you need to go to shear exstream to get that like paint you car with there logo and what not.
Simplify?
Nah i need to go to exstream to be noticed in this world of life.
thinking this through?
I have a bit iv opted for there midrange cost gear due to i dont have thousands atm to spend. I'v thought it through, go big, be diffrent and make it unique from others.
mate have you been on the grass recently?
2ch amp 60Wrms to power a 15inch sub?
your 2 10 inch subs need 700Wrms.
your 2 12 inch subs need 800Wrms.
you have 2 360Wrms amps.........
about the subs acting a component set, you understand box design has as much an effect if not more than woofer design on the sound?
i find this thread a good distraction as a side note!
enclosed box vs ported box.
ported box will let the sub move more freely and have bigger movement
enclosed box will make the sub have more controle over its self and will stop vibrating when it needs to. each kick should be more precise and well more subs will equal more bass and yeh the 2ch amp is a bit **** poor for the 15" i know i might go to the next amp up in the range
a ported box will outperform sealed every time.
woooooo.... big statement, i know but its pretty much true......