hi,
I just recently acquired a new response amp from jaycar. I wired it up using 8 gauge power wire cable and 8 gauge earth cable to the amp. I was wondering if it's putting out 500WRMS using 8 gauge wire or is it more wise to feed the amp with 4 gauge earth and power cable. The sub doesn't seem to be at its maximum potential.
thanks,
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
4AWG definately couldnt hurt but 8AWG should be fine for your application.
Which sub and amp exactly are you using?
I dont think response have a 1x150WRMS amp... or is it this one?
if so you need to bridge the two channels in order to draw 500WRMS, but you need to find the specs of your sub first incase your over/underpowering it.
Power is measured in DECIBEL
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
i got the same amp powering a cvr 12 in kicker sub and its too loud for me and i dont even have the proper box for the sub. id say u wired it incorrectly or the sub is rooted
Alright that sounds good. Thats a DVC sub, have you made sure the VC's are wired in series to present a 4ohm load?
Make sure you set the LPF on the amp around 80Hz and have your gains adjusted correctly.
Lastly that sub is designed for sealed enclosures only, make sure your using a sealed box of the correct volume.
Power is measured in DECIBEL
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
I'd try a box much smaller than that.
The recommended specs say 24 - 49,6 litres sealed. aim for something around the 30ltrs mark, and i'd dare say it should sound much better.
most audio places should be able to sell you something or you could always build something custom.
Power is measured in DECIBEL
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
the 20ltr shouldn't be effecting it as much as you say.
you hear air escaping. seal the box with something, liquid nails/what ever as long as it will not crack.
it the box leaks then its pretty much like having no box at all.
+1 Garfa. (love the sig too mate - gold!!)
Especially if the air leak is around the frame of the driver, you end up with phase cancellation - that is, the air being pumped out of the box when the cone is drawn inward, simply races around to fill the rarefied air in front of the cone, and vice versa. A sealed box needs to be sealed properly.
Believe it or not, even in a ported box an air leak will drastically affect the performance. It will throw the tuning of the port way out. Jaycar (and many other places) sell a closed-cell foam tape which makes a great gasket to use around the speaker flange - I use it on every box I put together, sealed or ported.
All the best, cheerz.
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My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
seal the inside as well mate. do the job properly, so you need to only do it once.