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Thread: wiring up VX boot

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    Default wiring up VX boot

    Ok so i know theres threads dedicated to this but iv got some qu's too. Strated customizing my boot (will hopefully come up as good as the attached pic). Iv gota wire up twin 12" subs and 2 amps. Iv got a capacitor too so from what i gather so far is:
    1. Run power and remote to the capacitor (and earth)
    2. Run power&remote&earths to both amps (does it make a difference whether i split 2 cables off the cap to either amp or do i run from cap to amp then to the other amp?)
    3. Got a monoblock amp for the twin 12s, once again do i just double up off the amp and run speaker cable to both subs or go from amp to sub to the other sub?)
    4. What gauge power cable am i looking at using between the different points? (already got RCAs and remote cable&fuse so not really lookin for an amp wiring kit)
    5. For the record the subs are the 1200W pioneer Champion series subs, pioneer 800W monoblock amp, pioneer 600W 4chan amp, and a 1F capacitor.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails wiring up VX boot-gabootwide.jpg  
    MaTT

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    With that set up man the cap is pointless so do away with that if u can will make ur set up alot more simplified. just upgrade ur grounding wires in ur engine bay instead

    ive got basicly the same gear in my VT only im using the 1000W sub and 1 less sub the VP is the same as urs just different gear tho so use 4 gauge wiring from the battery 2 the boot (dont 4get 2 fuse it) and then in the boot put a 4 gauge distrubution block with 2 8 gauge out runnin 2 each amp. still use 4 guage gounding wires on the amps tho, split ur remote wire 2 each amp then its just a matter of working our how u want ur subs wired up coz i think those r DVC subs rnt they?
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    yeh but the cap adds to the effect and makes it look sweet lol, yeh got the fuse and a fair bit of 8gauge (pulled outta my old car) i thought i might need 4 gauge from the battery now tho. thanks man
    MaTT

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    If its only effect that u want put it in just dont connect it up make it a dummy cap then? seriously 1F cap isnt gonna give u nething but looks.
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    ant a cap also smooths out the power supply so there is no alt wine and the like and if he already has it might as well put it in.

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    yeh thats what i figured, its not making it any worse having it, and it looks sweeter powered up to. So the wiring would go: 4gauge from Battery to fuse, 4 gauge from fuse to cap, 4 gauge off cap to splitter than one 8 gauge to each amp? And does it matter whether i run both subs from the monoblock or do i get some sort of splitter for that? or just go from amp to sub1 then to sub 2?
    MaTT

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    Quote Originally Posted by matt_gotigers View Post
    Ok so i know theres threads dedicated to this but iv got some qu's too. Strated customizing my boot (will hopefully come up as good as the attached pic). Iv gota wire up twin 12" subs and 2 amps. Iv got a capacitor too so from what i gather so far is:
    1. Run power and remote to the capacitor (and earth)
    2. Run power&remote&earths to both amps (does it make a difference whether i split 2 cables off the cap to either amp or do i run from cap to amp then to the other amp?)
    3. Got a monoblock amp for the twin 12s, once again do i just double up off the amp and run speaker cable to both subs or go from amp to sub to the other sub?)
    4. What gauge power cable am i looking at using between the different points? (already got RCAs and remote cable&fuse so not really lookin for an amp wiring kit)
    5. For the record the subs are the 1200W pioneer Champion series subs, pioneer 800W monoblock amp, pioneer 600W 4chan amp, and a 1F capacitor.



    Hey mate,

    No need to run the remote to the cap, just wire it to one amp then run another wire from that amp to the other.

    To wire up the cap, run positive from the battery to possitive of the cap. Do you know about charging the cap using the diode?

    Run the negetive off the cap straight to ground somewhere on the chassis.

    Run a power cable to each amp (one each amp) off the possitive on the cap.

    Run an earth off each amp to ground

    Id run 4guage power cables and earths, with a 160amp fuse about 6 inches away from the battery.


    Are your subs dual 2 ohms, or dual 4 ohms?

    If they are dual 2 ohms u will need to wire like this:


    If they are dual 4 ohms u will need to wire like this:



    Hope this helps
    Garrett
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    Quote Originally Posted by garfa View Post
    ant a cap also smooths out the power supply so there is no alt wine and the like and if he already has it might as well put it in.

    caps do nothing but add show to your car. it doesnt make ya amps or stereo run any better nor does it make ya stereo run more efficient,

    it doesnt stop engine noises such as altinator wines or noises from power wires being run near speaker wires. caps stop no noises.

    a CAPACITOR is purely for just show and nothing else. it has no real use in the car when wired to ya stereo except to add bling in the end.

    and an expensive voltage display basically

    if anything they reduce ya stereos efficiently due to a 1 farad cap takes a split second to discharge and then has to recharge. thus adding to the current draw of your stereo.

    unless it is a battcap (battery) capacitor that is worth around $1500-$3000 then they have no real benefit to having them in your car.


    cheers billy

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    Quote Originally Posted by billy79 View Post
    caps do nothing but add show to your car. it doesnt make ya amps or stereo run any better nor does it make ya stereo run more efficient,

    it doesnt stop engine noises such as altinator wines or noises from power wires being run near speaker wires. caps stop no noises.

    a CAPACITOR is purely for just show and nothing else. it has no real use in the car when wired to ya stereo except to add bling in the end.

    and an expensive voltage display basically

    if anything they reduce ya stereos efficiently due to a 1 farad cap takes a split second to discharge and then has to recharge. thus adding to the current draw of your stereo.

    unless it is a battcap (battery) capacitor that is worth around $1500-$3000 then they have no real benefit to having them in your car.


    cheers billy

    This is correct, i had a cap for show and it hindered my stereo by making my amps go into protect due to voltage drop, got rid of the cap, no more issues...

    Good to see u on here billy
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    ah no probs man. even though i may not be a commo owner if advise on car audio stuff is ever needed thought i could always offer some advise still if its needed.

    always willing to help out where ever car audio is concerned

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    Quote Originally Posted by billy79 View Post
    caps do nothing but add show to your car. it doesnt make ya amps or stereo run any better nor does it make ya stereo run more efficient,

    it doesnt stop engine noises such as altinator wines or noises from power wires being run near speaker wires. caps stop no noises.

    a CAPACITOR is purely for just show and nothing else. it has no real use in the car when wired to ya stereo except to add bling in the end.

    and an expensive voltage display basically

    if anything they reduce ya stereos efficiently due to a 1 farad cap takes a split second to discharge and then has to recharge. thus adding to the current draw of your stereo.

    unless it is a battcap (battery) capacitor that is worth around $1500-$3000 then they have no real benefit to having them in your car.


    cheers billy

    Thats wat i was under the impression 2 its not really a big set up neways so the batt and alt should keep up with out it.

    Garfa i didnt think there shouldnt b any alt whine not in a newer model car neways if so usually its the headunit or fault in the wiring?
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    If u have whine, double check that your RCA's and speaker cables are nowhere near power cables. Also chack all your earths
    RUN41T: Real cars don't power the front wheels... they lift them

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    Quote Originally Posted by billy79 View Post
    caps do nothing but add show to your car. it doesnt make ya amps or stereo run any better nor does it make ya stereo run more efficient,

    it doesnt stop engine noises such as altinator wines or noises from power wires being run near speaker wires. caps stop no noises.

    a CAPACITOR is purely for just show and nothing else. it has no real use in the car when wired to ya stereo except to add bling in the end.

    and an expensive voltage display basically

    if anything they reduce ya stereos efficiently due to a 1 farad cap takes a split second to discharge and then has to recharge. thus adding to the current draw of your stereo.

    unless it is a battcap (battery) capacitor that is worth around $1500-$3000 then they have no real benefit to having them in your car.


    cheers billy
    mate have you EVER heard of a DC smoothing cap?
    if not, have a look, then tell me caps do nothing in a dc feed.
    if he has it who cares, put it in.
    please have an informed/correct opinion before telling me i dont know what i am talking about.

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    something for you to read about caps. click the links below to read

    Technical - Capacitors Tried & Tested - Mobile Electronics Australia

    Can a capacitor change sound? - Car Audio Forum - CarAudio.com

    i won't need a Power Cap .... right??? - Talk Audio Forums

    so obviously you know nothing about me , my cars stereo system currently sits
    -2nd loudest in the world in its class
    -and currently holds the australian record in its class also.

    -and the newly appointed australian distributor for SPL DYNAMICS a brand that becomes available in australia this month for first time ever and also one of the world leaders in car audio around the world

    do a proper search on car audio specialized forums and you will find out whatever cap you use it is a useless object that adds bling to a car and causes more voltage drop with one in the car, then without having one and that is it.

    but anyway im not here to argue about advise i give
    im just here to offer advise. if you believe my advise is ever wrong please msg me asking me to prove my point right. please dont try put me down thinking i know nothing cause as you have just found out that is not the case

    SORRY MATT_GOTIGERS FOR THE DISAGREEMENT IN YOUR THREAD



    cheers again
    billy
    Last edited by billy79; 15-01-2008 at 02:05 AM.

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    OH one thing with wiring what ever you do for the positive of any amp you must do for the negative of the amp.

    if you have a 8awg earth going into the amp
    dont go putting a 4awg positive wire into the amp (NOT GOOD AT ALL)

    always match your cables


    another example in the case of a larger system if you have say ;;;;
    - 2x 0awg cable runs going into the positive of your amp
    -you would want to hook 2x 0awg cable runs for your earth into the amp.



    cheers billy
    Last edited by billy79; 15-01-2008 at 12:33 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by billy79 View Post
    OH one thing with wiring what ever you do for the positive of any amp you must do for the negative of the amp.

    if you have a 4awg earth going into the amp
    dont go putting a 8awg positive wire into the amp (NOT GOOD AT ALL)

    always match your cables


    another example in the case of a larger system if you have say ;;;;
    - 2x 0awg cable runs going into the positive of your amp
    -you would want to hook 2x 0awg cable runs for your earth into the amp.



    cheers billy
    Hey billy y isnt it good 2 have 4G grounding wiring if u have 8G power cable 2 the amps? i have this set up in the VP only did this coz i spilt the 2 amps with a distubution block but my 4G power cable runs right 2 the boot then splits? still not good?
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    it works the way you have it. but essentially you should always match your cables size.
    if you were to install amp the way you have it and it blows due some fault, and you take it to the shop and show them your system to prove nothing is faulty with ya install. and they see two different size cables going into the amp. the warranty would be voided. but yeah ultimately the way you have it works, but its not a reccomended thing to do.

    what i would suggest is put 4awg going from the distroblock to the amps that have 4awg grounds. its always a good thing using cable thats bigger then whats reccomended as a minimum. piece of mind then. if the distroblock is only 4awg in and 8awg out, 4awg cable will fit easily into the distro block still


    but yeah the way i wrote it before it was written the wrong way round its re edited now.
    Last edited by billy79; 15-01-2008 at 12:49 PM.

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    heres an extreme example of wiring this is my front battery and the cables that run from the front to the back. this is used to power two (2) amps.its all 0awg cable about 40 meters of it runs from the front battery to the back battery. you may say it is nuts and thats overkill but the truth is and in reality that still isnt enough cable to have piece of mind. but in saying this its rare ya will ever need cable like this unless running big amounts of power

    but its just an example of bigger cable is always better.

    10 positives and 10 negatives would be enough for piece of mind.



    better
    Last edited by billy79; 15-01-2008 at 07:07 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by billy79 View Post
    it works the way you have it. but essentially you should always match your cables size.
    if you were to install amp the way you have it and it blows due some fault, and you take it to the shop and show them your system to prove nothing is faulty with ya install. and they see two different size cables going into the amp. the warranty would be voided. but yeah ultimately the way you have it works, but its not a reccomended thing to do.

    what i would suggest is put 4awg going from the distroblock to the amps that have 4awg grounds. its always a good thing using cable thats bigger then whats reccomended as a minimum. piece of mind then. if the distroblock is only 4awg in and 8awg out, 4awg cable will fit easily into the distro block still


    but yeah the way i wrote it before it was written the wrong way round its re edited now.
    ahh k i thought it might have been so its only not recommended due 2 warrenty issues n thats all? no techinical side of things that i should know bout?
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy79 View Post
    something for you to read about caps. click the links below to read

    Technical - Capacitors Tried & Tested - Mobile Electronics Australia

    Can a capacitor change sound? - Car Audio Forum - CarAudio.com

    i won't need a Power Cap .... right??? - Talk Audio Forums

    so obviously you know nothing about me , my cars stereo system currently sits
    -2nd loudest in the world in its class
    -and currently holds the australian record in its class also.

    -and the newly appointed australian distributor for SPL DYNAMICS a brand that becomes available in australia this month for first time ever and also one of the world leaders in car audio around the world
    you have completely missed the point of what i have said previously. i am talking DC smoothing cap NOT STIFFENING
    i dont care what records you hold mate, a cap will smooth the power supply from the feed to the amp and is/has been used to correct alternator or anyother induced noice through the feed.
    read my posts and provide articles or your own opinion to adress the point raised.
    if you want to take this further then use pm or the forum it doesn't matter, its not like this is flaming or anything.....

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    look garfa this is what i will do you believe what you want to believe ok

    a capacitor is a capacitor a DC smoothing capacitor is exactly the same as a stiffening capacitor they are the same exact item.

    but i will let it go as i said you believe what you want to believe and the millions of guys throughout the world like me that have been envolved in car audio for years we will believe what we want to believe.


    cheers billy
    Last edited by billy79; 16-01-2008 at 11:50 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrx884 View Post
    ahh k i thought it might have been so its only not recommended due 2 warrenty issues n thats all? no techinical side of things that i should know bout?
    nah nothing else it is all good on the technical side of things it works fine

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    hey, so i wired it up (all 4gauge wit 160A fuse) now i jus gota wait till i stop havin 2 work 7 days so i can start producing the boot! Thanks 4 the help...for the record the cap is for added bling in my case...I dont care if it aint doin anything, i aint gona throw it away so might aswell use it. i'l try post pics of the finished product.
    MaTT

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    Quote Originally Posted by matt_gotigers View Post
    hey, so i wired it up (all 4gauge wit 160A fuse) now i jus gota wait till i stop havin 2 work 7 days so i can start producing the boot! Thanks 4 the help...for the record the cap is for added bling in my case...I dont care if it aint doin anything, i aint gona throw it away so might aswell use it. i'l try post pics of the finished product.
    Sounds good mate, I put a cap in my old system for bling effect 2
    All four guage is the best way imo, make sure u update us when u get it all going

    Cheers
    Garrett
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    garfa i can definitely see where you're coming from with a smoothing cap, theoretically there will be benefits using a cap, especially when designing complex circuits etc. However we are talking about car audio here, most of these circuits arent exactly put together to the high standard you and I are used to working with

    Looking at the amount of other things that can alter the sound quality or power output or whatever in this environment its no suprise that most people will think a cap wont make a difference, as any difference it makes won't really be noticable anyway...

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